Electronic rust protection

[montypsx]

I've been meaning to ask about this for a couple of mouths now and just got round to it :lol:.

Been out in the Canadian sticks this summer and there's been a few old cars going round that look like they have just come out of the show room, anyway one day I was taking to one of the guys asking him about his resto job on his pick up and he told me it had never been restored or kept in a garage or under cover and it is his daily. I ask how the f--k he kept it rust free and sooooo good and he told me about electronic rust protection, apparently you put these pads in certain places around the car with a very small charge going though them and it prevents rust or really slows it down. He told me you can buy the kits or make your own. I've googled it and yes they are out there but dear however if they work it's a small price to pay me thinks. But why aren't they popular over here


So as anybody used one, know of one or made one as I'm intrigued and interested

 

[NickJ]

I hadn't heard of this for cars so I also googled it, from what I saw it seems a bit of a con trick similar to the lead pellets when unleaded first arrived. I don't think I'd bother with it, better off hosing off underneath regularly and waxoil.

 

[gninnam]

Just found this = https://ecclesautoservice.ca/do-electronic-rust-protectors-work/

 

[Trikky2]

Agreed. Scam. They don't work.

 

[montypsx]

It does seam to be a scam from what I've read but it's made me more intrigued. If it is a scam why was this fellas 1974 Datsun pick so good. I know a chap who lives near me who's a retired physics teacher I mite go and knock on his door one day when a get a mow and see what he has to say :lol:

 

[gvee]

...because you have to plug it in; meaning it's probably kept in a garage or under cover at least most of the time!

Confirmation bias, for sure!

 

[chad]

I think that there is a germ of truth in this.

For example you can remove rust from parts by putting them in a tank of solution and passing a current through them
I've done this with a few parts and it works well for most of the time.

 

[ozziedog]

I`ve been following this and I know you are saying scam, but the vehicle is claimed to be kept out doors so it says in the original post. I just `so` want this to be true and keep my bus forever and whadaya mean that those lead pellets don`t work,. I think you`re just being daft now, of course they work, they wouldn`t advertise them otherwise now would they. :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,, AND if anyone starts on Santa,,,,,, the Easter bunny gets it !!!! :lol: :roll: :lol:

 

[MisterListerSir]

Just a quick one, I lived in beautiful Canada for 6 years and worked for Ford and Chevy for a few of them years and most people take there cars/trucks in to garages to get them '' rust checked '' you can see the product on the Canadian tire website. I used to do it with my vehicles every year. They drill into some of the cavities that are sealed or hard to get and inject rust check into it then put grommets into the holes, they do the whole underneath of the car as wall. Then they keep in in a warm workshop overnight to avoid debris sticking to it. Personally i thinks its better than our waxoyl. As for the electronic rust treatment not many Canadians i knew believed in it.
Have a great New Year

 

[jonboylaw]

Zinc is used as a sacrificial anode on ships. They may be trying to replicate this but as it is not submerged in conductive water I'd be cautious of the claims.


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[Clem]

Get a good car thats never been damaged and allowed the onset of rust and they can survive very well. The fact its had the electronic treatment is most likely coincidence, its (this system/idea) been around for years and its always just been a low level sales pitch, if it were that good it would be everywhere.

 

[montypsx]

Hi all. Well I've spoken to the old boy down the road who used to be a physics teacher and he said........wait for it ....... Yes it works however it's not that simple or that easy to do everything is critical voltage,currant, position of pads the amount of pads an so on you get the jist of it. He did explain it but after a bit it went a little bit over my head. But to sum it up the kits you buy won't work and there are **** you need a clever person to work everything out and build a system to suit EACH vehicle.

I'm going to Canada again later in the year and I'm going to see if I can find the guy in the pick up and have a chat and see if I can get a few pics now I'm a bit more clued up on it

 

[rlepecha]

I think the idea is based on the use of sacrificial anodes as cathodic prorection on subsea equipment. Ref. http://rules.dnvgl.com/docs/pdf/DNV/codes/docs/2011-04/RP-B401.pdf .

Its based on the idea of using the steel as a cathode, then a material significantly lower than that in the galvanic series as an anode. It is also suitable to run a DC current through the material to replicate the PD(potential difference) between an anode + cathode.

It is possible to make calculations from that standard, but obviously for subsea use. They take into account current drain from coated, uncoated, different types of coatings etc etc which all create create different current drain on the anodes. Too great of potential difference between the anode and cathode subsea can result in a build up in Hydrogen and thus initiate HISC(hydrogen induced stress cracking).. But that's another issue in itself.

Further research, finds the wikipedia cathodic protection page. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection

Under applications it discusses an automotive application that has been reviewed by NACE and tested in an ISO accredited lab to show that it works to reduce corrosion on a vehicle(wiki is not a reliable source of information though). It does mention some manufacturers that may be worth looking at. Http://www.theautosaversystem.com/index_en.php
Note that the reports can be viewed through the citations in the wiki text, and a quick glance over them would lead me to believe that these systems will work....BUT and a big one, the vehicle has to have a continuous coating of water over the vehicle and onto the anodes when connected to the DC source. Any areas where continuous water continuity was not present would not be protected.
It can also be seen that all testing was completed in a 5% salt solution, to speed up corrosion I believe, but this does not correctly replicate rain water or water out of your hose pipe and a different solution would change the effectiveness of the protection I think.

My thoughts based on the short period of research, is that although these systems have the potential to work on a wet vehicle, you will find anywhere coated with waxoil/wax or sealant or any other reasonably hydrophobic material will not allow for a continuous coating of water whilst connected to the DC source.. So that removes a good 80-90% of external surface on most classic vehicles, unless your bus is never waxed or its a show winning paint only chassis with no waxoil in sight.