100 vs 110 on 1776 with 6 Rib & Twin 34's

[Davydomes]

Yes - that old chesnut :roll:

I have tried to get some clarity on the above from the archive but I seem to be getting more confused :?

We have inherited with our bus a 6 Rib Box. Next year we are gonna upsize from 1600 with stock box to 1776 with the 6 rib. We also have twin Webber 34 ICT's available to use. The question is which Cam to go for. I read 100 is good for hills etc and initial pulling. But 110 is better for cruising at higher speeds. Does one suit a 6 Rib better than the other?

Any experience, recommendations or feedback from the members for either Cam set up with a 1776 would be most welcome. Especially with a 6 Rib box.

 

[vintagedan]

Hi.
I would use a 100 cam in a 1776cc bus engine , a 110 in a beetle.
Hope this helps.
Dan simpson.

 

[Trikky2]

Yes your right. The 100 gives more torque at lower rpm and the 110 gives more power at higher rpm. Like most things, it's a compromise and the best choice for you depends on the way you use and drive your bus.

Alternatively you can add a stroker crank, take the cc up to around 2 litres with a 110 cam and have both the torque and the power increase with your six rib box.

 

[K@rlos]

110's are great in a bus. Personally I'd switch to Weber 36 IDF's over the ICT's

 

[CornishSilver]

I hate threads like this especially when I've just shelled out for a new 1776 with a 110 cam.........What if everyone say's 100 :sad0049:

 

[atafonso]

Depending on your driving habits, a stock cam would be great :msn4: (some will be mad at me)
Having an aftermarket cam does not mean is better, the cam changes the behaviour of the engine and you always have to compromise something. If you want fast throttle response, high torque at low rpm's and the ability to climb hills with ease, use a stock cam, you will not regret. If you ocasionally rev higher, your van is not so heavy and you like to keep up with the modern cars on motorways, use a W100 or a Scat C25 at the expense of moving the torque and powerband to a higher rpm range. Now, if you drive all the time at higher revs, and are more worried about making more horses at the expense of low torque below 3k rpm, use a W110.
I built a 1776 with a stock cam recently, it had some work done to the heads, twin 34 ICT' s and a single quiet pack exhaust. It made 73 crank hp, and 90% of the torque was available at only 2k rpm. It's a very responsive engine and the customer is really happy he heard my advice for it suits his driving style perfectly.
My suggestion is: match the cam to YOUR driving style, don't let people choose this for you. You don't build an engine around the cam, you choose the cam depending on what engine you will build and your driving habits.
Just my £0.01
Abel

 

[ozziedog]

Depending on your driving habits, a stock cam would be great :msn4: (some will be mad at me)
Having an aftermarket cam does not mean is better, the cam changes the behaviour of the engine and you always have to compromise something. If you want fast throttle response, high torque at low rpm's and the ability to climb hills with ease, use a stock cam, you will not regret. If you ocasionally rev higher, your van is not so heavy and you like to keep up with the modern cars on motorways, use a W100 or a Scat C25 at the expense of moving the torque and powerband to a higher rpm range. Now, if you drive all the time at higher revs, and are more worried about making more horses at the expense of low torque below 3k rpm, use a W110.
I built a 1776 with a stock cam recently, it had some work done to the heads, twin 34 ICT' s and a single quiet pack exhaust. It made 73 crank hp, and 90% of the torque was available at only 2k rpm. It's a very responsive engine and the customer is really happy he heard my advice for it suits his driving style perfectly.
My suggestion is: match the cam to YOUR driving style, don't let people choose this for you. You don't build an engine around the cam, you choose the cam depending on what engine you will build and your driving habits.
Just my £0.01
Abel

Nicely put that man !

Ozziedog,,,,we like simples :mrgreen:

 

[Davydomes]

it had some work done to the heads

My suggestion is: match the cam to YOUR driving style, don't let people choose this for you. You don't build an engine around the cam, you choose the cam depending on what engine you will build and your driving habits.
Just my £0.01
Abel

Good advice! - Did you have the heads ported? Mildly?

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Driving habits are pointing toward 100.

 

[atafonso]

Yes, i do them myself. All i do is to clean all the ridges specially below the seats, remove all casting defects, match port the intake manifold and most importantly is the very restrictive sharp corner on the exhaust port. I normally remove lots of material there so the exhaust gasses escape quickly not allowing too much heat to accumulate in the head.
I can send some pics if you want to have a go yourself
Abel

 

[atafonso]

Yes, i do them myself. All i do is to clean all the ridges specially below the seats, remove all casting defects, match port the intake manifold and most importantly is the very restrictive sharp corner on the exhaust port. I normally remove lots of material there so the exhaust gasses escape quickly not allowing too much heat to accumulate in the head.
I can send some pics if you want to have a go yourself
Abel

 

[Davydomes]

Yes, i do them myself.
I can send some pics if you want to have a go yourself
Abel

That would be ace if you would!!!!

 

[K@rlos]

I hate threads like this especially when I've just shelled out for a new 1776 with a 110 cam.........What if everyone say's 100 :sad0049:

Don't worry mate, a 110 is a great bus cam. Really though, a stroker is the best bet... torque and horsepower :mrgreen:

 

[Zcat7]

I built a 1776 with a W100 cam for the torque lower down reasons mentioned above. Having got over a few carb jetting/venturi and dizzy advance issues I can say that I'm well pleased with the performance (I came from a 1641 and the experience is chalk and cheese).

One thing I would add to atafonso's wise advice, as I found it quite a factor, is what wheel/tyre combo you will run? I went from 195/70 x 15's on the rear to stock 185 r14s and that changed the overall gearing substantially (184 x 14 makes the gearing longer/taller). So maybe think about where you will end up with your setup, especially with a 6 rib box, which has the tallest gearing already.

I'm also interested in the idea of a stroker crank, as Trikky 2 suggests but would like to know what other changes need to be made? I went 1776 because I understood it to be the biggest capacity without changes to the case (grinding out for clearance), tinware (does the engine end up wider?), heads etc

Finally, atafonso, could I be cheeky and get the shots of your head mods also please

 

[Trikky2]

I built a 1776 with a W100 cam for the torque lower down reasons mentioned above. Having got over a few carb jetting/venturi and dizzy advance issues I can say that I'm well pleased with the performance (I came from a 1641 and the experience is chalk and cheese).

One thing I would add to atafonso's wise advice, as I found it quite a factor, is what wheel/tyre combo you will run? I went from 195/70 x 15's on the rear to stock 185 r14s and that changed the overall gearing substantially (184 x 14 makes the gearing longer/taller). So maybe think about where you will end up with your setup, especially with a 6 rib box, which has the tallest gearing already.

I'm also interested in the idea of a stroker crank, as Trikky 2 suggests but would like to know what other changes need to be made? I went 1776 because I understood it to be the biggest capacity without changes to the case (grinding out for clearance), tinware (does the engine end up wider?), heads etc

Finally, atafonso, could I be cheeky and get the shots of your head mods also please

If you use stroker pistons and their correct con rods then no case machining is required and the width of the engine stays within tolerance, hence the tinware, exhaust etc all fit fine.

 

[Zcat7]

If you use stroker pistons and their correct con rods then no case machining is required and the width of the engine stays within tolerance, hence the tinware, exhaust etc all fit fine.

Interesting... Why didn't I know this before!

 

[K@rlos]

Anything over 74mm stroke needs the case clearenced, my 2110 has an 82mm crank with Chevy journals and quite short 5.4 rods but i still needed to clear that.

 

[cunning plan]

Yes, i do them myself.
I can send some pics if you want to have a go yourself
Abel

That would be ace if you would!!!!

+1

 

[atafonso]

Yes, i do them myself.
I can send some pics if you want to have a go yourself
Abel

That would be ace if you would!!!!

+1

I will do it guys, just need a bit of time as i always struggle with the pic resizing thing :mrgreen:
Abel