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I'll get some this evening. If you give me your email address, I'll send them straight to you - I usually have a nightmare trying to upload to the forum but I'll give that a go too.

1994/L Audi Coupe 2.0-l, 16V. MOT and tax. 160k miles, loads of history, really nice condition. Interior clean and tidy, bodywork really good - in metallic green. Brand new spare tyre, plenty of meat on other four. 140bhp engine runs sweetly, great oil pressure, no smoke. Electrics all seem to...

Blinding. Get right on one, matey...

I'd agree with Clem - if you need to be somewhere, then the autoroutes can't be beaten. But if time isn't an issue, then avoiding them is a much more pleasant experience - you won't find any sleepy towns/bars/auberges/cafes on there, just coachloads of kids... Also, from memory, I think...

Roger that...

Tricky one, this... Went two years ago with the bus, went for family camping, got there at 4 on Friday and ended up shoe-horned into the corner of a field with not even enough room to push the little one's buggy out between us and the car next door. But plenty going on, especially for the kids...

I'd never been remotely interested in air-cooled until I went to Le Mans with a mate in his crew cab Splittie. Big engine (170bhp), freeway flier gearbox, genuine 90mph on the autoroute (thanks TomTom) and a single, massive back-fire when he lifted-off alongside any old gits in their wooden...

I fitted two of the 'Discarnect' version, one on the main and one on the leisure battery. They're dead easy to fit (just replace the terminal) and easy to disconnect.

Might want to have a look at the rubber seals between the engine bay and the tinware as well - mine were trashed first time I took the engine out, so I replaced them. As it transpired, mine weren't that brilliant quality - maybe someone could advise on which are the best quality to use?

Don't know if its any help but I know someone who had some BBS rims chrome plated - he sent them to Mike the Polisher in Scotland who prepped them and sent them on to Cali Chroming in the US for the actual chroming. Don't know how much but a lovely job though. I'm with UberCool - lots of...

I've been running Skobbler on my iPhone alongside an old TomTom for a while and prefer it - it's much more up to date, as I'm not prepared to fork out the cost of a new sat nav just to update TomTom maps. It's free and still downloads maps on the go, so a pain if you lose 3G or go abroad but...

No worries. Yep, mine's a single port. There are no chokes on the ICTs but it doesn't really need them and I haven't had any starting issues - it goes on first pop and while it's a bit lumpy for the first minute or so, you just tickle it along until it warms up slightly and you're away...

I can heartily recommend the twin 34 Weber ICT conversion from Eurocarb. Tell them the spec of your engine and they'll send the carbs ready-jetted although you'll still need a short session on a rolling road to make sure. I fitted a pair and with an exhaust, saw gains of 8bhp and 8lbft at the...

I'd say WillEvans is bang on - I've got a 1970 Bay from Sweden and both arrows light up when indicating in both directions, so I'd guess the right hand bulb is gone.

Just a thought but it might also be worth checking the cable hasn't been pulled too tightly into the throttle linkage to try to get maximum throttle opening for full pedal - I had this a while ago, even with the cable lug and the carb arms on their maximum travel settings, I still couldn't quite...

I don't know what you'll get with the barrels, pistons and cam but on my stock 1600SP with an EMPI dual quiet pack, twin 34 ICTs, 1.25:1 rockers, Pertronix trigger, coil and leads mine went from 58lbft and 30bhp at the wheels to 80lbft and 50bhp. Not masses by today's standards but the torque...

Found the thread. Will it fit a 1970 SP? If so, £25 posted? Cheers, Jim

For money, obviously...

Same as ButtonMoon, when I picked my Bay up, I could be cold or warm but choking... new HXs cured the problem - it had been standing for a couple of years. If you're going to try it, I'd recommend removing the valence so you can get to the join between the manifold and HX from above and below...

Anyone got a reasonable starter motor going spare? Cheers, Jim