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Hi, yes they are rebuildable but it isn’t cheap. Having said that, it’s still cheaper than buying a replacement and it’s quite satisfying, although the needle bearings are fiddly, just use lots of grease to hold them in place. The only thing that you won’t know until it’s apart is the condition...

Yes, I’ve done a couple and it’s fairly straightforward. You can still buy nos vw pegs, and replace the seals for new - l bought viton ones and use proper steering box oil. You can have a look at some of the pics on my page https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.170302306909500&type=3

Haha, my linkage is so old it’s stamped Claude’s Buggies, it needs all the help it can get!

I’ve always run extra springs with my hex bar on my bug. This shows them clearly

I

Unless you have everything to swap over, I think a remote servo set up would be best.

I should have said that’s before I fitted them to the subframe

I’ve got Range Rover P38 seats in mine, very comfortable and similar size to originals, in fact I used the original subframe from a scrap seat and bolted the RR seat to it. The passenger side is on aftermarket runners. Here’s the RR and original for comparison.

Binthrower, you can’t trust the coils and pertronix don’t care. I replaced my second or third failure with a Unipart one to get me home when it stranded me, luckily in town. Still got the coil. RAC don’t have the capacity to deal with breakdowns nationally, as the subcontractor who eventually...

If it’s a crossover (71/72) then don’t cut the bumper as they are unique to this model and expensive to replace. There are lots of options on exhausts from standard to a bit sporty that will clear your bumper and ditch the 4 tip.

Ahh, the joys of owning a crossover. Yes, one year only bumpers with different mounting points unfortunately. Sounds like a previous owner has re drilled an early bumper and fitted it. I would try all the usual importers and put a wanted ad on the vw 71/72 baywindow crossover group on Facebook...

If you are going back to stock you could fit heat exchangers (even s/h imports) and have a warm bus😉

cheers, I've done it and all works perfectly

My indicator switch (us 5 wire) works but is fairly worn but I have a European 7 wire switch which feels much better. I’m no expert on electrics and looking at the wiring diagrams I’m even more confused. Anyone know if these are compatible and if I can use the 7 switch? grateful for any help

I was lucky enough to get a nos late box (LHD) for £80. Bought a conversion plate from Neil at lite steer for £35 and jobs a good un. Steering is smooth and easier as there are more turns lock to lock.

Ive had my Crossover (Type 4,2ltr with twin weber 40's) for a couple of years, but have always had an oil leak problem, usually pushrod tube or rocker covers. I was looking at a stock CU engine and noticed a few differences. Mine has an oil hose from the crankcase that just bends in a u shape...

Had the same on my old one, tried everything. In the end had it soaked with plus gas while under pressure with hydraulic puller with small strong clamps (not sure what they were off) holding the puller arms. On the last attempt (tried half a dozen times) it came off with a bang!

All sorted now

When I bought my bus it had a 2.0 type 4 CU replacement engine from VW heritage. The paperwork says its hydraulic. I had a leaking pushrod tube so whilst replacing the exhaust with a vintage speed one, I fitted new pushrod tubes and seals and set the valves for hydraulic lifters with 1 1/2 turns...

Hi Just got round to fitting the mesh I bought of you about a year or so ago, but as i fitted the rubber tube, the mesh split :( Not sure whats gone wrong - any ideas? Cheers Jon