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tricky to find :(

http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/stuck-in-second.64419/page-2

I had the same problem. See the last posting on this thread there's a youtube video. It's fiddly but you might be able to do it through the reverse switch opening, worth ago if it saves pulling the gear box, otherwise get the nose cone off. As most of the gearbox are old a good precautiong is...

Did exactly the same, £40 failed and £80 been going 3 years. None of them ever give full scale, but that's just being picky If you still the original one you could replace the resistance wire.

In the end , after being unable to tell if it was the flywheel flexing or the crank movement, I took the grease off the shims tightened up to spec and was then able to measure better. Finally took apart greased and reassembled. Use a magnet to get the shims out while keeping the oil seal in...

Was thinking the same. Have a pigs ear bell end and the short arch that bolts across the ears, but that's as far as I've got. Did you use the larger frame from a late bay or fabricate a different mount?

Just as a side question. If used in a van, what size engines can these gearboxes be reliably used with?

That's good then, makes it simpler.

Any will do, but if you go for a self retracting one make sure check it's mounting angle is right or it won't recoil. You can get a steel bracket which bolts in and then raises the shoulder mounting fixing, but if it's for car seats the existing mount will be fine.

You've got to try :) I thought there was an issue with cold oil over pressurising the filter and blowing it, so the reasoning was that you'd stick with original oil route until the oil was warmer as give a small amount of oil to heat so it heats up quicker, less engine wear. Sandwich plates are...

I'd do the floor first then the sides, as your more likely to remove the sides in the future. Did mine with 9mm ply, won't bother with 3.5mm ply. carrymat foam roll is useful as it's a sealed foam, cheap from car boots and various thicknesses. install a pair of cables in there whilst your at it...

There are driving bulbs that combine indicator amber and white light into one bulb, so if you feeling techy that would give you reversing light as well as indicators in your clear rear lenses.

Are you going to fit a thermostat divertor thing so the oil does not go though the filter until it has heated up. If so, what module are you using as that's the last bit I need to buy.

Can you post a link to the intermittent wipe electronic unit you've used.

If it is the gearbox then it maybe similar to mine that was stuck in 2nd gear. The push rods were locking the selector movement in the nosecone Found out after removing the gear box that I could have freed the selector rods by removing the reserving switch and levering the push rods back in...

Biggest battery killer is when you forget to charge it over winter and then steady radio drain flattens it whether it's budget or pro. If you have a leisure battery and no major starting issues then don't go huge on the battery - its all extra weight and monies.

I think you can remove the beam shield caps which clip in front of the bulbs as modern bulbs have them built in. Can someone confirm?

Worth having a spare coil anyway. If your confident the spark is weak and points are set right then as they are just a switch to ground I can't see what else it would be electrically, other than the coil.

If you have an electronic contactorless (no points) ignition then that could be its way out. They seem to fail gradually which makes them pita to fault find. Generally playing up more when hot. Most of the budget replacements in the last year now have improved the electronics. Get one that turns...

I plan to do this as well, thought it would just be the same as on a late bay.