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Because the battery in your watch is a different type and has a different current draw rating.. A healthy battery that is correctly charged will sustain that drain happily....You have now just contradicted yourself and said the same as me.. Do you leave your TV in the house on standby?????//...

Then please explain why our bus stood for over 2 months with a radio fitted with its backup memory, clock etc and the van started first push of the button. A healthy battery that is correctly charged will sustain that drain happily. Remember something the size of a squashed pea keeps your...

The radio or cd is a red herring as it uses a small percentage of sod all, which a healthy well charged battery will maintain for years. Find out what is really causing your problem. Take Bus to a battery specialist and have the battery/charging system checked out.

The biggest issue is the maintenance. Drums need regular adjusting whereas discs are self adjusting. The issue of brake fade with drums only becomes an issue when you are going downhill in a mountain pass in the Alps, otherwise it really doesn't matter.

Faulty battery, faulty alternator, dodgy wiring to name but a few possibilities. :mrgreen:

You have me confused. The left what remains on?

Take it you mean the RH High beam isn't working, then look at it's associated fuse, is it clean and tight (looking is not enough) take it out clean up and refit. Has the bulb blown?

Do not use the stud like a bolt, the soft mag alloy was never intended to take the wear of a thread being screwed in or out repeatedly. You seriously run the risk of stripping the threads in the head. Either clean up the studs with a die having removed the nut and locktite them back in or use...

The type 25 used an integrated system. You will need the dissy, the TCI unit, the coil and the Idle stabilisation unit along with the associated wiring loom for the engine bay. After that it is just standard wiring.

Just bolt them up. The only difference is a small increase in the bore.

By my reckoning 56b and S are swapped over. The S goes to the stalk and 56b goes to the high beam fuses or at least they do on a '68.

Make sure you are no doing what I did once, confused mm with thou's and wouud up with a free play figure you wouldn't believe.

The holes in your wheels are there to cool the disc brakes, fit early wheels and you loose the cooling which in turn will reduce brake efficiency. That is why VW changed the design of the wheel. The early wheel are fine with the drums originally fitted but you really don't want to go there.

I'd start by checking the state of the coupling between the shift rod and the gearbox where it attaches at the front on the gearbox. Also check the condition of the bush on the front of the shift rod where it is supported at the front. Wear in any of these places will cause difficulty in...

You can get everything you need from here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/hoses/hoses.php#clip" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

FF 100 from here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/hoses/fuelpumps.php#ff" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If your regulator is at fault, then don't drive the bus until it's fixed. If the voltage is excessive then you run the risk of boiling the battery and you really don't want to know what boiling sulphuric acid is like when the battery explodes.

Have a look here http://www.hallvw.clara.net/lockpart.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; This may give some insight into the lock issue

I thought the flats on the end on the ball joint shaft were there to allow a spanner to hold the joint still while you tighten up the nyloc nut. The nut should go on finger tight so that a spanner will fit on the flats. That's the way I've always done them.