any suggestions for coating bare metal?

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Doris

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What do you reckon to this dilema chaps. My plan it for my Bus is that she comes from the media blasters by trailer to my housel,un load. I plan to then vacuum clean as much of the residual media out of the chassis nooks and cranies and anywhere else it may settle. the next day or so,the body shop will be waiting with the etch primer when I turn up BUT until then, I know from past experience that freshly cleaned metal starts to rust from atmospheric moisture within hours ( my biggest worry is if its raining and that is bouncing up under the chassis). I've waited years for this so I want to put fresh paint onto really clean bare metal. so.........

Q - is there a product I can simply spray on to just inhibit the rust formation until shes goes to the workshop a day or so later that can be etch primed over for good?

Someone recommended POR 'metal ready' but having looked at the speil on it, it states that this is not needed on sand blasted metal.I like the ease of use, simply spraying a liquid on until its ready for paint, but it also needs rinsing off within 15mins (can I thoughly spray the whole bus chassis and rinse off within this time?? ) which concerns me for the following reason - I really don't want to be spraying water around my bare chassis in case I've mised a bit with the 'metal ready',also if you don't rinse off it goes to powder,to which no primer/paint will ever stick, rendering that area un protected again!

any ideas please?

Cheers - Rob
 
Be very careful what you spray or the paint you use, most protective paints such as Hammerite, Underseal or POR contain silicone. If any silicone is present when the body goes to paint it'll not only affect the etch primer - fish eyes etc, but it may also get into the painters booth circulation which you and they really won't want.

If its to be kept under cover for a day ie a garage, i wouldn't worry too much about surface rust taking hold, just ensure no one touches the bare metal with their bare skin, i'd also enquire if the media blasters are able to apply a coat of etch primer after blasting, something most blasters will do.

My advice would be to talk to your painter see what they'd prefer you to use, if they've no preferance i'd suggest a red oxide primer made by Wurth.

Hope that helps :)
 
I would leave it cling wrap as much as possible to keep it out of the rain, as the body shop to spray it with phosphoric acid prior to painting this should convert any rust present to iron dioxide.

Are the body shop spraying the underside as well, if they are acid etch primer will give just about the best adhesion for the paint you can get, I think if you brush paint it with some thing like rust beater the adhesion will never be as good as it the surface is etch primed. IMO its almost more important that the paint adheres to the underside more than the rest of the body due to this being the area of the body that takes the most punishment from the environment.

Alternatively ask your body shop what they would recommended you to do.

Looking forward to seeing your van when its done.
 
61 stu said:
Be very careful what you spray or the paint you use, most protective paints such as Hammerite, Underseal or POR contain silicone. If any silicone is present when the body goes to paint it'll not only affect the etch primer - fish eyes etc, but it may also get into the painters booth circulation which you and they really won't want.

If its to be kept under cover for a day ie a garage, i wouldn't worry too much about surface rust taking hold, just ensure no one touches the bare metal with their bare skin, i'd also enquire if the media blasters are able to apply a coat of etch primer after blasting, something most blasters will do.

My advice would be to talk to your painter see what they'd prefer you to use, if they've no preferance i'd suggest a red oxide primer made by Wurth.

Hope that helps :)
thanks Stu, The actual painting will be done by a pro, with his choice of etch primer,stone chip/paint etc.was thinking of something as a stop gap as the bus is outside all the time so no chance of it being covered.bare skin - yes, seen that done before and it leaves rusty finger prints! unfortunatly the blaster is purley that - no painting facilities.maybe thinking of asking if i can go with my compressor and do it while its still in situ - doubt it though its a new workshop!

Thanks for your in put mate. any other ideas on products to use before the primer stage?
 
Doris said:
thinking of something as a stop gap as the bus is outside all the time so no chance of it being covered.

In that case i'd get something on there, in the past i've used the Wurth red-oxide primer after bare metaling on customers cars and had no problem with spraying two pack over the top, no reactions or anything. I'd check first with your body shop first though just to check they're happy with it.

Otherwise if you've got access to a compressor throw some etch primer at it after panel wiping it religiously and using several tac rags. :)
 
agree with noddy, there will be corrosion, you wont see it, use phosphoric acid as a converter prior to prime, sold as pre-wipe in the trade, not good to spray unless you have filtered air to breathe.
 

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