Anyone run a merged header?

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pete nice

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I am just fitting a 1641 with a merged header. I am fabricating my own engine support bar as the exhaust & full flow get right in the way.

What an arse! Anyone else done it?

I think this will turn into a work of art, picks soon...
 
just got my 1641 in

just running an thunderbird header and single quiet pack

not sure if its a merged header, it 4 into 1, not sure what the difference is

what carbs are you running pete

im tapped for full flo too
 
I will be running this bad boy...

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It's got a 1.625" stainless mereged system & it hits everything! I will make it fit, I only have to weld another 2 brackets on (once I have made them) then it should fit. I need to cut the air filter stand off too so I can get the 40's on...

Will get some pics of the brace bar later.
 
Ive got the one from just campers and its great, still looks like the first day i got it and it sounds schweeet!

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Turbo Thomas makes some very nice exhausts, got one in my shed (still) awaiting fitting.
His website is: http://www.turbothomas.com/
He can also fabricate them to clear your support bar, at least he could for a 72, the bar for earlier ones is a different shape.
His sidewinder style exhausts look good as well.
 
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It's a bit Heath Robinson at the mo. I have tack welded the rubber mounts in place so I know where they sit on the van. I need to make the plates to attatch the brace bar to the rubber mounts. The full flow gets in the way a bit too. The new brace bar sits lower down than normal to clear the exhaust.
I will plate in the ends to add strength & tidy it up...

There is a big difference between a 4-1 tube header & a 1 5/8" Merged system!
 
A merged system is designed for racing. It's a bigger diameter & a different shape. It has shorter pipes & are more direct to the collector. The collector is much longer & merges the 4 pipes into 1.

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A 4 into 1 is desigined to replace the original exhaust, it has the heat risers for a standard manifold. The muffler flange is welded on in a different place too.

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My next problem might be the fat turbo muffler getting near the bumper or rear panel. I will do a mock up tomorrow...
 
Man, what a nightmare that was. I dunno if it was worth all the effort.

I had to extend the turbo muffler to get it to sit right. I think the engine sits too high in the engine bay now, so will have to lower it down some, should be easy enough...

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I ran with a beetle merged header with an home madre engine support, but it broken rapidly :cry: , so I swapped my beetle merged header for a bugpack street max with the OEM engine support;

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After approximately 10 violents starts :cry:

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Street max header

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That's all folks :lol:
 
Shizzle!

That's the way to do it. Doh! - Where can you get a header? & How much?
It looks like a ceramic coated one. Shame it is not Stainless Steel.
 
Sorry but I don't know a lot of UK vw shops (I'm French), I know you can get it a coolairvw

http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/viewProduct.aspx?id=10581

or SSP

http://www.streetstyleandpower.com/publicRouter.cfm/loadPage/219?cftoken=36961966&cfid=3981391

Bye :wink:
 
ok, I have done it now. It all needs to come back off to be painted but it seems to work ok. I use a later type 2 support bar so it should take the stress ok.
I have made up some spacer plates so it sits slightly lower now.

I took it for a spin, it's not setup at all, but seemed to go quite well...

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I ditched tose nastey reverse lights too...
 
Once i get my engine i know im gonna have to alter the support bar too! Hopefully it will need a small amount of reworking but i wont know till i go to fit it :(
 
What I did with my old engine is have it all on the bench so you can see what you are doing. If you are running full flow you can use a stepped bracket from a seat belt mount kit, then cut off the left hand original tab. You will have to relieve a section for the oil pump too. What ever you cut out, fillet it back in with tin plate.
 
Yeah i'll check once i have the engine - no good at the welding game so i'll measure wot needs doing/adjusting and then get some fabricator to sort out the adjustments. Yes it will be full flow so the oil pump will need to be cleared.
 

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