Going low on ball joint beam

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Andy_sheff

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Is Anyone low, tubs etc on ball joint beam or is it a must to go king and link?

:msn4:
 
Got to disagree with the chaps above.

I am on a narrow, ball joint beam with tubs and I've had my bus cruising real close to the floor with a really nice ride.

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Your ball joints must be running close to the full extent.

I've been just as low on my previous set up with ball joints and found the king and link pin way a lot smoother empty and fully loaded.

The only real way to go really low on a ball joint is to mount the top tube of the beam inside, but this restricts you to removing the beam quickly and involves a bit of work.
 
I'm not after total un usable lowness just nice! I already have a ball joint beam and dropped spindles, gonna narrow it some more or buy a more narrow beam, would be a big expense to change the lot to king and link
 
All the lowest bays run king & link pin beams but if your not going mega low a ball joint beam will be fine.



This is the Ipswich section of earlybay.com, we're all running king & link pin beams. You can't get this low with a decent ride on ball joints
 
any one running the french slammer dropped BJ spindles yet? pics
 
six said:
any one running the french slammer dropped BJ spindles yet? pics

Yes as we are UK dealer, installer for French Slammer.

I disagree with the comments about the ride compared to KnL as long as you use dropped spindles and the right combination it works well, on a KnL you have to notch the chassis to allow the tie rods to clear as the beam sits higher.

We now have our bus fitted with the French Slammer set up and its available for test drives from the New Year onwards so feel free to get in touch and try it, theres photos on the French Slammer thread in the General section but I've copied them here as well.

My bus, need to sort the rear height but on French Slammer drum dropped spindles & beam


Rogers bus on the same set up


And Andrew Mellors bus, Mr Lister on here, 71 Drum dropped spindles, 4" Beam and running stock 14's


and a late running the set up for good measure
 
Graham L said:
six said:
any one running the french slammer dropped BJ spindles yet? pics

Yes as we are UK dealer, installer for French Slammer.

I disagree with the comments about the ride compared to KnL as long as you use dropped spindles and the right combination it works well, on a KnL you have to notch the chassis to allow the tie rods to clear as the beam sits higher.

We now have our bus fitted with the French Slammer set up and its available for test drives from the New Year onwards so feel free to get in touch and try it, theres photos on the French Slammer thread in the General section but I've copied them here as well.

My bus, need to sort the rear height but on French Slammer drum dropped spindles & beam


Rogers bus on the same set up


And Andrew Mellors bus, Mr Lister on here, 71 Drum dropped spindles, 4" Beam and running stock 14's


and a late running the set up for good measure

I would say this is as low as you would want to go on ball joints. If you are looking to get the front wheel to tuck then you need to either raise the beam or king and link it.

The beam sitting higher on a king and link is a positive. It will give you more ground clearance avoiding raised ironworks. Yes you have to notch the chassis but that is not major work.

This is mine on king and link and its not at its lowest setting. Sitting on 15" wheels

10616624_10154484121800181_5401271166696646942_n.jpg
 
IMO

King and Link,

Notching,

Tubs,

all very cool but if your not doing it yourself its a very expensive way to go. Especially as again IMO the busses look cool but what ever anyone say the ground lceasrance is reduced, so speed bumps, slopes, drive ways and even petrol station forecourts can become a pain or you'll be wincing as it hits things (Which it will)

I would love a slammed van but dont want to drive sensibly or slowly.

Hence why i only have a lowered bus, (Big Difference)

I run Creative weedeater two narrowed front beam

some amercican welded drop spindles of unknown origin

No tubs, no notches, no rubbing, no banging and plenty of clearance.

I used to live in south london speed bump central.

10526148_10152520090299246_4264712859676454410_n.jpg


995935_283036645168741_2092516277_n.jpg


You can always put your whole set up for sale and buy new and start again but personally I would make what you have work, will save you a fortune!
 
You could run some air shocks so when parked it's low and then raid it to drive.




I have a kit if your interested.
 
Some good thought s on the situation here, I'd like to go low but useable as I plan on going to Europe next year. I measured up the height the other day after reading some measurements on a thread, 58cm on the front at the min, needs to come down to the low 50s.
Air shocks are good in theory But if one packs in your in trouble!
 
Is there a reasonably priced decent shocker out there as these red ones I have on are too soft, the t2d ones look good but there way over priced for a bit of chineese
 
Andy_sheff said:
Some good thought s on the situation here, I'd like to go low but useable as I plan on going to Europe next year. I measured up the height the other day after reading some measurements on a thread, 58cm on the front at the min, needs to come down to the low 50s.
Air shocks are good in theory But if one packs in your in trouble!

You could say the same for a normal damper and in the time I have been on this forum I have only heard of 1 damper breaking and that was Clems Gaz coilover which sheared the top mount clean off.
 
What i'm missing in this thread is fllipped bal joints.
I'm running them and can go pretty low on them.

 
http://www.wagenswest.com/how_to/balljoint_linkpin_myth.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 

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