How strong is powder coating?

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cunning plan

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Jul 15, 2008
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Location
Northamptonshire
Year of Your Van(s)
1968
Van Type
Clipper / Microbus
For coating chassie components such as beams etc? Is powder coating the best way? :?
 
i'd say no :|

what with having to get it spotless both inside and out, and removing the bearings so that the heat didn't affect them, and then not being able to touch it up when it gets chipped (and it'll get chipped :cry: ) i'd steer well clear of powdercoating.

or, is it 'cos i'm a cheapskate and i've got a hundred gallon drum of chassis black :roll:


edit : did you edit that or am i going mental ?
 
the councillor said:
i'd say no :|

what with having to get it spotless both inside and out, and removing the bearings so that the heat didn't affect them, and then not being able to touch it up when it gets chipped (and it'll get chipped :cry: ) i'd steer well clear of powdercoating.

or, is it 'cos i'm a cheapskate and i've got a hundred gallon drum of chassis black :roll:


edit : did you edit that or am i going mental ?

No editing here?

I was thinking of chassis blacking / hardnose paint etc, but I may be able to get some stuff powder coated FOC so I figured it was a good idea but wondered it there were any obvious flaws to the plan... :?
 
The 4" front axle on my van is powdercoated.

Both shock tower bottoms, where I jack the front end up, are chipped now. I've just painted over it with POR15, and it looks worse than if it had just been painted properly in the first place.

My powdercoated tinware looks rather worse than 2 years old, too.

If you are super, super careful with your van (as in, a show vehicle with an underside clean enough to eat from, that will never be used on the road) then powdercoating looks nice. But for a vehicle that gets used, I wouldn't bother ;)
 
Tofufi said:
The 4" front axle on my van is powdercoated.

Both shock tower bottoms, where I jack the front end up, are chipped now. I've just painted over it with POR15, and it looks worse than if it had just been painted properly in the first place.

My powdercoated tinware looks rather worse than 2 years old, too.

If you are super, super careful with your van (as in, a show vehicle with an underside clean enough to eat from, that will never be used on the road) then powdercoating looks nice. But for a vehicle that gets used, I wouldn't bother ;)

Interesting.... So maby a hardnose paint over POR15 would be better?
chiny.gif
 
i'm not saying i'm mental like the bloke at the party going "woo hoo look at my simpsons tie - i'm crazy" but i am mental so take this with a pinch of salt :roll: but i also think there's some sort of international POR15 promotional conspiracy going on, as well as with the 15" wheels and the owls and god knows what else :?

it's mega expensive, it doesn't stick to anything (except your fingers) it goes off in the tin in about ten seconds and i genuinely can't see an improvement over more 'traditional' methods :|

although i have been known to be wrong :oops:







(once, in 1972)
 
the councillor said:
i'm not saying i'm mental like the bloke at the party going "woo hoo look at my simpsons tie - i'm crazy" but i am mental so take this with a pinch of salt :roll:





(once, in 1972)


lol :D
 
Lots of scraping/wire brush work to clean it up, a coat of red oxide if you must, then smooooth Hammerite applied with a good quality brush. Hard work, can be messy, but it looks good and holds the rust back. Cheap too.
 
the councillor said:
i'm not saying i'm mental like the bloke at the party going "woo hoo look at my simpsons tie - i'm crazy" but i am mental so take this with a pinch of salt :roll: but i also think there's some sort of international POR15 promotional conspiracy going on, as well as with the 15" wheels and the owls and god knows what else :?

it's mega expensive, it doesn't stick to anything (except your fingers) it goes off in the tin in about ten seconds and i genuinely can't see an improvement over more 'traditional' methods :|

although i have been known to be wrong :oops:

No conspiracy - I've been using POR15 for years on VERY rusty metal like cab floors etc and in marine applications. Properly applied after the right pretreatment, it sticks like ***** to a goose, stops any further rust (like new after 5 years). It covers a huge area even with 3 coats and does not go off in the tin if you follow the instructions. So yes - you are wrong!

Powder coating is hopeless for beams etc, partly because it is applied VERY hot which cooks all bearings (the nylon ones in the beam will just drip out of the end) and partly because it will chip easily and then rust gets in behind the coat. I see lots of powdercoated fittings on boats that are junk after 2 years.
 
BJ1 said:
the councillor said:
i'm not saying i'm mental like the bloke at the party going "woo hoo look at my simpsons tie - i'm crazy" but i am mental so take this with a pinch of salt :roll: but i also think there's some sort of international POR15 promotional conspiracy going on, as well as with the 15" wheels and the owls and god knows what else :?

it's mega expensive, it doesn't stick to anything (except your fingers) it goes off in the tin in about ten seconds and i genuinely can't see an improvement over more 'traditional' methods :|

although i have been known to be wrong :oops:

No conspiracy - I've been using POR15 for years on VERY rusty metal like cab floors etc and in marine applications. Properly applied after the right pretreatment, it sticks like ***** to a goose, stops any further rust (like new after 5 years). It covers a huge area even with 3 coats and does not go off in the tin if you follow the instructions. So yes - you are wrong!

Powder coating is hopeless for beams etc, partly because it is applied VERY hot which cooks all bearings (the nylon ones in the beam will just drip out of the end) and partly because it will chip easily and then rust gets in behind the coat. I see lots of powdercoated fittings on boats that are junk after 2 years.

Good points dude..

What do you think about Powder Coating just the wheels?
 

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