Installing Dellorto 36 DRLA/VS Exhaust *Build Thread* Day 2

[Supertramp]

Today began the start of my upgrade to twin Dellorto 36 DRLA carbs and a Vintage Speed exhaust. I was focusing on removing the stock exhaust, carb, manifolds and anything else that would no longer be required.
I started with this:

Current Bocar carb

Bumper and valance off

Mostly stripped. Need to take the Dynamo stand off to get the inlet manifold out.

CB Performance linkage kit and manifolds arrived today, so here it is alongside the carbs

It then started raining so I moved onto building the linkage, easier said than done...
And so begins the questions:
How does the air filter connect to the carb? The four screws go up into the air filter but I don't see any bolts that holds it on?

Secondly, how does this black balljoint type screw go into the hex bar? It just slides out??

Thank you and many more questions to come!

 

[jonboylaw]

The filters are held on just by the top plates, the should have 2 long studs per carb with wing nuts on top.
The ball screws on the picture fit into the filter base plates and are to adjust the he's linkage position. There should be a small spring you place inside the end of the hex bar.


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[Supertramp]

The filters are held on just by the top plates, the should have 2 long studs per carb with wing nuts on top.
The ball screws on the picture fit into the filter base plates and are to adjust the he's linkage position. There should be a small spring you place inside the end of the hex bar.


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Cheers Jon.
I've got the two long studs with wing nuts for each carb, but these don't hold the air filter to the carb, if I turn them upside down the air filters would come off. They hold the top plate of the air filter to the bottom, is this all they need to do or does the filter need to be secured to the carb?
And thanks on the second point.

 

[Dave.P]

The filter bases are held down by the four studs on each carb top, you need eight nuts 10mm spanner size.
The studs and wing nuts then hold the tops to the bases as said.

 

[Supertramp]

The filter bases are held down by the four studs on each carb top, you need eight nuts 10mm spanner size.
The studs and wing nuts then hold the tops to the bases as said.

Cheers Dave. I thought that might be the case, I wonder why they aren't included in the pack?

 

[jonboylaw]

And make sure you use lock nuts for the base plates. I fitted a set of velocity stacks as well, these use the studs that hold the base plate down, although I needed to get longer studs to fit. These were loctight'd in.


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[Supertramp]

And make sure you use lock nuts for the base plates. I fitted a set of velocity stacks as well, these use the studs that hold the base plate down, although I needed to get longer studs to fit. These were loctight'd in.


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Cheers Jon, just picked up some locking nuts.


I've decided to drop the engine. For the effort it's taken to remove everything, I can't imagine how difficult it will be to put it all back in with the engine insitu. Any tips for removing the engine?
I've got my mechanic on hand so if getting everything on becomes insurmountable I can take it to his garage and we'll do it together, at least I can still see how it all works.

 

[SiDev]

Mine was fully built with 36 Dells and went back in without dismantling, it's tight but it goes. Don't forget to remove or cut and bend your original oil bath filter stand!

 

[jonboylaw]

And get a set if stubby spanners for the manifolds incase you need to remove them in the future. Also use the CSP manifold nuts as they are either 10 or 11mm flat to flat to give more spanner room.


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[jonboylaw]

Forgot to say, also grind or file some clearance for the nut/spanner at the base of the manifold, you will see when you offer them up. Makes removal in situ much easier.


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[Stevec]

I would also say install the manifolds first then put the carbs on because it's tight up against the fan housing and it might stop you getting the manifolds down nice and tight.

 

[Supertramp]

Thought I would update this. Bus is going to a local mechanic on Thursday but I'll be going down and helping with the work.
Just ordered;
New clutch kit
Gearshift bushes/coupling
Huco Fuel pump
Connectors/hoses and t piece.

All ready for next week.

 

[jonboylaw]

Don't forget the inertia cut off switch


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[Supertramp]

Don't forget the inertia cut off switch


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Sorted cheers Jon.

My list of jobs that need doing on Thursday/Friday is growing exponentially. I've now decided to upgrade to an alternator while I'm at it.
So that's:
- Drop engine
- Install twin carbs
- Install VS Exhaust
- Replace clutch
- Replace gearbox bushes
- Upgrade to alternator
- Replace fuel sender

Not much then :shock: :roll:

 

[Supertramp]

Clutch kit arrived.

 

[dubdubz]

is the flywheel oil seal OK?

if it was me whilst the engine was out I'd be inclined to change it - Unless it is NOT leaking at all - then I'd leave it....getting the fly wheel off is a pain without the right tool.

 

[Supertramp]

is the flywheel oil seal OK?

if it was me whilst the engine was out I'd be inclined to change it - Unless it is NOT leaking at all - then I'd leave it....getting the fly wheel off is a pain without the right tool.

I'm not too sure, nothing is leaking onto my drive, is it worth getting it anyway incase it is leaking when I take the engine out?

 

[dubdubz]

is the flywheel oil seal OK?

if it was me whilst the engine was out I'd be inclined to change it - Unless it is NOT leaking at all - then I'd leave it....getting the fly wheel off is a pain without the right tool.

I'm not too sure, nothing is leaking onto my drive, is it worth getting it anyway incase it is leaking when I take the engine out?

If its not weeping and wrecking your clutch then I'd leave alone... I have a tool to get the flywheel but off, torque Meister or something, its basically a multiplier and helps shift it, people have broken scaffold tubes!

If its very slightly damp then make a note that it'll need checking again in 3-6 months....

 

[Supertramp]

Fuel hose arrived, didn't realise it was green. :lol:

 

[jonboylaw]

Nice one!


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