Never done it before

[gearyboy]

Im taking out the engine in my 71 bay 1600cc for the first time. The reason for doing this is to investigate two oil leeks and as I am restoring the vehicle, I want to 'tart' up the engine bay. So have you got any hints and tips for me?? Change the clutch while im there?? change the clutch cable?? what seals to replace?? what to replace to go unleaded?? what parts of the engine to paint and what not to?? etc etc

Cheers if you can help

Matt

 

[Harlequin]

Your engine is unleaded already as all VW heads after 1967 were designed to run
on unleaded mainly because of the American market where leaded fuel was outlawed in 1973.

 

[uber cool]

only change the clutch if its worn, you'll find out its quite easy to remove the engine, so if it not worn replace at a later date.

replace the crank seal behind the flywheel, this will probably be one of your oil leaks anyway. But only use german quality seals.

 

[southcoastcruiser]

change the oil cooler seals to !

 

[gearyboy]

Your engine is unleaded already as all VW heads after 1967 were designed to run
on unleaded mainly because of the American market where leaded fuel was outlawed in 1973.

Every day is a school day, didnt know that, thanks!

 

[Zcat7]

Check all your fuel breather hoses. So easy to do with the engine out. There is a 90 degree elbow, which often cracks, located on top of the fuel tank and about 4 others; all hidden out of sight behind the back panel covering the tank. You need to remove the 10 screws that hold the back panel in, 6 facing you, and 4 underneath (middle 2 are tricky...) and then it's all there for you to see and fix.

All hoses available from JK, Coolair etc. Get rid of your fuel smells in the cabin and fire risks in 1 go!

Neil

 

[Jimbly]

Might want to have a look at the rubber seals between the engine bay and the tinware as well - mine were trashed first time I took the engine out, so I replaced them.

As it transpired, mine weren't that brilliant quality - maybe someone could advise on which are the best quality to use?

 

[Slammed]

Check and reset the end float, esp if you're pulling either the oil seal out or the crank pulley off.

 

[dubdubz]

replace all fuel lines with correct non braided quality hose, I would also consider a fuel solenoid which cuts fuel off so in the event of a split hose or fire the fuel is minimised, you'll only have the carb and what's in the lines as opposed to the siphoning gravity effect, as the tank is higher than the engine! [ sounds confusing theres a thread on here where we did a group buy ]

Also a time to check the starter and the cables - and replace if necessary, at the very least clean all the contacts [disconnect the battery first of course], and clean the gearbox earth strap as it helps the circuit for the engine in general.

if you're unsure about any bit's condition, take a pic and ask......

 

[K@rlos]

Check and reset the end float, esp if you're pulling either the oil seal out or the crank pulley off.

Ollie is right, you could go from having a leaky engine to a dead engine otherwise :deadhorse:

 

[robins]

Check and reset the end float, esp if you're pulling either the oil seal out or the crank pulley off.

how is this done,esp the reset

 

[Slammed]

Check and reset the end float, esp if you're pulling either the oil seal out or the crank pulley off.

how is this done,esp the reset

Don't ask me, I'm no expert. I just know what happens when its not right.

 

[dubdubz]

Check and reset the end float, esp if you're pulling either the oil seal out or the crank pulley off.

how is this done,esp the reset

checking is done by a dial gauge and mag mount or using the feeler gauge tool [ from say heritage ] once you know what the current float is, undo the flywheel gland nut and whilst doing this pray to the shim gods.

If your prayers have been answered you'll find 3 x .24 shims [ if not there'll be 3 x .36's ! :shock: ], then it's some maths basically to get a better endfloat figure by adding a slighter thicker shim or combination thereof. Of course if you have 0.5 mm of endfloat and 3 x thick washers already then you'll not be able to 'shim' the wear out so it's align bore time

you're aiming for 0.07mm to 0.13, I always tend to aim for a 'tight' 0.1mm, which is probably in the area of 0.085 - 0.095 in reality, as my measuring equipment didn't cost hundreds...

 

[robins]

Check and reset the end float, esp if you're pulling either the oil seal out or the crank pulley off.

how is this done,esp the reset

checking is done by a dial gauge and mag mount or using the feeler gauge tool [ from say heritage ] once you know what the current float is, undo the flywheel gland nut and whilst doing this pray to the shim gods.

If your prayers have been answered you'll find 3 x .24 shims [ if not there'll be 3 x .36's ! :shock: ], then it's some maths basically to get a better endfloat figure by adding a slighter thicker shim or combination thereof. Of course if you have 0.5 mm of endfloat and 3 x thick washers already then you'll not be able to 'shim' the wear out so it's align bore time

you're aiming for 0.07mm to 0.13, I always tend to aim for a 'tight' 0.1mm, which is probably in the area of 0.085 - 0.095 in reality, as my measuring equipment didn't cost hundreds...

ill have it out waiting for you,when your passing on your way down

 

[dubdubz]

ill have it out waiting for you,when your passing on your way down

your engine I hope :shock:

happy to mate if i can co-ordinate it...next Cornwall trip is due in the next 2-3 weeks

 

[noddy]

Before you do any thing spray the complete engine with gunk and then jet wash all the crap off the outside, this stop any grit or other muck inadvertently getting in to you engine.

Take all your tin ware off degrease it and repaint, make sure the inside of the fan housing is cleaned they get crudded up after years of oil vapor and dust. Clean the oil cooler externally as this also get covered in crud and leaves.

Check the end float as this can be reshimmed while the block is out.
Clutch release bearing if you have no idea of condition replace it, its a cheepish part and its less hassel that pulling the engine again, I would also replace the clutch plate at least.
IMO opinion if you dont know for sure that a wearing part is good replace it, save yourself lots of hassle later on. If you know the clutch, clutch release bearing are ok then you dont have to worry about them.

Check the cylinder heads are stille torqued down to the correct torque, dont be tempted to over torque them as this will cause the studs to pull from the case.

Make sure the cooling flaps are fitted to the fan housing and set open if your not using a thermostat to control them.

 

[robins]

ill have it out waiting for you,when your passing on your way down

your engine I hope :shock:

happy to mate if i can co-ordinate it...next Cornwall trip is due in the next 2-3 weeks

:lol:

 

[gearyboy]

Well the engine is out, I was surprised how easy it was, time to put your advise into practise