Newbie question - 2.0l possible in a '68?

[Dickie524]

Hi folks, new here and to the scene so apologies for asking anything that should be obvious!!

Have had numerous classics in the past but mostly British stuff - in other words, I'm no stranger to spannering but just not familiar with the hardware yet!

The question related to the possibility of fitting a 2.0l type 4 engine into an early bay - 1968 MY. The one I have my eye on is right in many respects but is currently has a running 1600 with a horrendous knock. I had really wanted a 2.0 as I am likely to be using the bus for some long trips (Derbyshire to Scottish highlands etc) so would like the torque, and mated to an appropriate gearbox to drop the final drive - from what I read 70ish should be comfortable with the right box, rather than an occasional straining blast! Also a nice smooth quiet exhaust as have upset the neighbours enough already I think!

I know most things are interchangeable but I just had this feeling that fitting a 2.0 might not be as straightforward as first appears into an early bay.

Also - 2.0l tinware appears quite different. Does if fit, and, is it easy to get hold of?

I'm sure this has cropped up before - if so, I'd be grateful if someone could point me to the achives!

Thanks all, happy camping!

Rich

 

[rickyrooo1]

not 100% on the set up of 68's but some of the 71/2 earlies had a 1700 type 4 so it can be made to fit, you'll need all tinware and engine hangers as they differ type 1 to type 4, if fitting 2 litre type 4 get correct tin for engine - don't be tempted to try to fit a t25 2 litre in - the tin is totally different, if fitting american spec type 4 exhaust etx be aware the parts are a pain with different flanges to euro spec, the type 4 is also available in fuel injected, i can do 70 easy but it's still best at 60-65 in my opinion, had it up to 80 occasionally but it's a bit thirsty then

 

[Lee C]

I had a 1976 late bay with a 2.0 engine & 6 rib box, it was fast, towed well , managed hills etc & fairly economical 30mpg .
I now have a 1972 crossover bay with 1700 & 3 rib box, seems to run out of gearbox before the engine is out if puff, if you know what I mean, it's canny, but a bit gutless compared to the last one.
Waaaaaaaay back in the day when I was 18 I had a 1972 bus with a 1600 twin port remtec engine, again 3 rib box, that seemed to fly along still delivering 30mpg & coped with hills.

I guess what I'm saying is maybe a good type1 motor could be just as torquey as a type 4 ????
But I'm no expert, there's a lot on here more knowledgable the
An me!!!

Just to confuse you further, how about a corvair motor or even, dare I say it, a Subaru????

 

[tomedwar72]

http://www.aircooledtech.com/type4_upright_conversion/

http://type4store.com/conversion-cooling-systems.html

You also need to fabricate an engine support bar as mentioned.

Essentially, converting to upright cooling from the pancake-type format allows you to use the space in the engine bay better and make the tinwear fit and seal properly.

 

[vinvan]

I had really wanted a 2.0 as I am likely to be using the bus for some long trips

I have an 1800 Type 4 I might be willing to sell if you are interested - pm if you are.

 

[subheatadey]

What do you want to go faster than 50 for are you insane?

 

[ginga]

Without wanting further open this can of worms I've just put a 1776 engine in my van and it's done 3500 miles round Europe this summer. Can't afford to do the box yet but it's definitely on my list as we've cruised at 60 - 65 ok when the temp has been normal but dropped to 50 - 55 in the Spanish heat just to keep oil temp down. It's really torquey and has allowed me to maintain my speed on hills.

The drive back from Newhaven to here was pretty effortless mostly thanks to the pathetic temperatures that we are having.

If you re in derbyshire feel free to come over and have a drive to see how it feels, we're near Buxton.

 

[Dickie524]

Wow - heaps of information, thanks very much guys! I'll take a read of those links when I get home - just on lunch hr at the moment - and see if it is all too daunting!

Thanks for the offer of a drive too Ginga, I'll have to see what weekends we're about. Funny I was over in Buxton last weekend too!

As for the offer of an 1800 motor Vinvan, well, that might very well do the trick - thanks vey much. I'll drop you a PM as suggested.

Thanks all, Rich

 

[preston]

Don't do it when I got my bay it had a 1700 type 4 butchered in. I changed it to a 2000cc then after a while I got all the parts needed to swap it back to a 1776 type 1 and I enjoy the drive of the bus a lot more

 

[Dickie524]

Hmm, noted, does look much neater too dunnit?! [Muses...] !

 

[Dickie524]

So......oooo...

Am I right in saying that A 1776 Type 1 would fill the hole with minimal modifications?

 

[lil_azza]

Yes a 1776 will fit straight in as will the bigger engine choices in a t1 engine, unless u go twin carbs then u need to remove you filter stand,
Some say 1776 is the ideal upgrade due to heat etc

 

[Dickie524]

Hmm - Sounds the ideal way to go to me. Minimal faffing with tinware too I suppose...

Thanks all - brief search shows various suppliers of recon 1776's (and for significantly less cash than 2000's!) so I think this is probably the best solution.

 

[dubdubz]

engine and box queries are amongst the most complex....

from my extensive but not conclusive or necesarily logical investigations

around 1.8 - 2l does seem to be an optimum size - but it then depends on where the torque is seen from the choice of cam and valve size etc.

I think the tried and tested here [the US always go large! or turbo!] is a 1776 as its standard width uses all standard easily available tinware, very mild cam and medium valve sizes. It shouldn't need external cooling but full flow to a filter is a good half way house - and means you can move to a ext cooler if you want to run higher compressions. You will want to run twin carbs
1776 by the way is standard 69mm crank and 90.5 pistons [std is 85.5], so the downside is the case and heads need machining.

But gearbox ratio choice is also key as you pointed out - so a 2l box is a good choice - again not quite a straight swap

I have followed Jonboylaw down the programmable ignition route - there is literally hours and hours of reading
I have a mini stroker so its a 76mm counter weighted crank with standard cylinders/heads so its a 1745cc, with twin 36 dellorto carbs. I want to eventually add 94mm top end and have a 2110, but I think I'll also do FI