Valve adjust weirdness + head stud distance?

[dubdubz]

Hello

I went to help out a local Vdubber set his valves after losing an adjuster, and needing a cut to length rod....

So its a 2110, not sure of cam but has a flame thrower or MSD type distributor which seems to have no markings for #1??

So I bumble over - rocker cover is off anyway...set to TDC and rotor is pointing at where no.1 is on cap and there's no gap on the valves?? backed the elephant adjusters right off and still no gap....??

OK
so we found the balls were not orientated right and the flat wasn't on the valve stem...quick remove of the rocker and reinstall - appears better.....

but no.

So we spin engine [by hand] a couple of revolutions and start again - still the #1 gaps are tight - tighter than the others?? I could probably just get it at 6thou, but the adjuster is right out. This engine has around 200miles max on it from brand new??

Now the other thing that greatly puzzles me is the head studs are quite a way through - as in almost or possibly actually touching the shaft?? I'm guessing this has 'stroker' head studs, and therefore longer but surely not so long they are fractions of a mm if not touching the rocker shaft??

So couple of Q's

Any instant - "oh I had this - have you checked?"
Of those that have built big strokers what amount of head stud is poking through? Did you have to adjust them by trimming??

Just for my sanity - the adjustment should be the same as bog std type1? TDC, pointing to #1 - adjust #1 inlet and exhaust, rotate anticlockwise, do #2 and so on?


I may have to remove #1 plug and remove the dizzy from the initial 'what firing position am I on' in case....
I'll also drop a straight edge along the stem ends just to check...

Of course this is a new build built by someone good, so it should be all ok, and of course we'll drop it and take back if required - it's just that isn't as easy as setting the valves right - in his garage once I've worked out that I'm a retard and doing something wrong... :lol:

Actually the only thing I just realised is the pulley is an empi one with a stick on timing ring...perhaps this fell off? and has been stuck on wrong --- if so how can I work out TDC??

cheers

Darren

 

[terrier man]

Back to basics take No1 spark plug out rotate crank until piston at top of stroke on No1, put finger or thumb over spark plug hole & feel for air being pushing out the cylinder, should be at the top of it's stroke when air has stopped & your valves should now be open or opening.
Good luck.

 

[Loxy]

Some dizzys don't point to #1 when at 5 o'clock but at about 2 o'clock
Are you sure you are defo on #1 as above check by removing plug!

 

[Marvel]

Cheers guys for the info, and big thanks to Darren as well. This will be my first time doing the gaps and glad I called Darren over to help (read "show me how to do it"), otherwise I think I would have gone insane.
Oh, and the dizzy is the one that comes with the CB Magnaspark full ignition kit.

 

[dubdubz]

The dizzy does appear to be at 5 o'clock on tdc, as I wasn't sure had Marvel rotate engine by hand, and watching #1 inlet/exhaust , they never seemed to get loose enough, even after about 6 180 deg spins. Going to have another go on Monday...

Going to remove both sets of rockers, label and measure pushrods, and check valve stems line up. Then check shims for rockers are the same both sides.

Seems extreme but then I know all the bits are right, which I'm sure they are but I need to discount them...then we'll get it to tdc with #1 plug out.

I'm also tempted to remove pulley bolt, and work out where woodruff key is, to then check transfer marks from gen stock pulley...again just to check.


The head studs length still puzzles/bothers me but I'm 6 beers into my BBQ, so perhaps I'm too sensitive and should man up!

 

[Marvel]

Woohoo, all sorted! Big thanks and karma to Darren (sorry, wrong forum) for coming over and sorting everything. We shimmed the rocker out a touch and everything is hunky dory. We made sure we had TDC by popping a screwdriver down the plug, although this did mean we had to remove the carb.

 

[dubdubz]

no probs - it was odd - getting stuff all laid out on the bench checking was helpful - meant that all parts were checked!

it was an issue getting the ruddy plug out - was hoping not to have to remove the carb - but hey ho...

the extra shimage wasn't much - the elephant feet adjusters were just too close to the rocker arm - so we went from 3.05mm to 3.65mm which allowed extra room for adjustment in the future, the geo should still be fine, looked ok...

You forgot the rocker shaft that we also 'freed' up, it was just a little tight.

I think it was a combo of new day, installing stuff knowing it was all fine, and spending a bit extra time..or perhaps it was the bacon sarnies?

Sounded awesome when we got it fired up...