What should I check and service on my first new bus?

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donallanwalker

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Hey guys, I've just bought my first VW Campervan T2 westfalia 1969. The dream is to travel Scotland in her first then further afield in Europe when I'm confident enough (also a few shows and festies in between)

Can anyone give me some advice on what things I should be doing to it straight away to lower the risk of her breaking down on me. Ive got some money to spend on it, but I want to make her mechanically sound first.

Or can anyone advise on a good mechanic in Scotland (I'm in the north east but would easy travel) to send it to for a good looking over and a proper service.

Im up for eventually doing most things myself, Ive just ordered the manual :) But id like a pro to give it that initial look over first so I can spot anything really wrong with her!

Thanks :)

(p.s if anyone would like a look at her you can at the link below)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-VW-CAMPER-VAN-EARLY-WESTFALIA-T2-BAY-WINDOW-2-0L-ROOF-RACKS-/111456864828?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=M6zEBPASOE0%252Fx1euRHwmg%252BANvug%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Check the engine bay for missing seals. You shouldn't be able to see through the tinware at any point towards the floor- that's a recipe for disaster.
Check there are 10 spacers on your dynamo pulley, that the fan belt play is correct (10mm ish deflection) and that you have a spare belt, 21mm spanner & screwdriver.

Check the valve gaps 0.006", dwell angle (50 degrees +/-2), spark plug gap and condition, timing (30 degrees BTDC at 3000rpm) and CO level (around 3% is what I go for). You might need a garage for this but it'd be ten minutes and it's important. If you run too lean you could ruin your engine.

Grease your suspension components, inspect seals and have a good look at your steering components- wiggle joints around, wiggle wheels on hubs, find out where play is, if any.

Check for oil leaks ( a drip is OK, your van should get through about a pint every 3000 miles (which is when you should change your oil)).

Check everything works, electronically.

Check your fuel lines- in fact- replace your fuel lines. R9 hose seems to be the most reliable stuff (you've got ethanol in modern petrol, it eats rubber) but even then check it every year for cracks. Use proper fuel hose clamps. I put my fuel filter under the fuel tank, out of the way. Some people put it in the engine bay- if you do that, put it on the low pressure side of the fuel pump.

Drive it around, listen for horrible noises.
Things to watch for-
Whistling noises that increase/decrease with engine revs (usually an air leak)
Rattling noises when the engine is hot and under load (pinking, STOP! it's incorrect timing. mixture etc... it'll kill your engine)
Rumbling noises when you come off throttle (when in gear and moving it can be rear wheel bearings, CV joints or big end bearings, when stopped it can only be one)
knocking when steering- play
knocking when moving along- wheel nuts or bearings.
 
check the red and green ignition lights come on when you first turn the key - and that they go out when the engine starts.

If the green one stays on - or comes on when driving stop immediately and investigate - oil too hot or too low and good possibility of damaging engine

The red one coming on or staying probably means the battery isn't charging or some other electrical fault. Probably not as serious as above but could leave you
stranded with a flat battery

Carry a tool kit !

I took my bus to a specialist when first got it and didn't regret it - it should not cost much - and apart from doing everything right in regards to servicing, it's hard to know what the steering, brakes, suspension etc is supposed to be like on a 40 year old car until you are used it....

They'll also be able to tell you exactly what you've got...
 
All good advice above.

Here are some great books that are worth investing in:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1566913101?pc_redir=1410584401&robot_redir=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/0837616352?pc_redir=1411769960&robot_redir=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

By the way... I'm not taking the piss with the first one, it really is very good!

Both can be bought at other outlets, amazon just came up first on google ;)

Also here are a few good web resources, obviously this one you are on is great too:

http://www.ratwell.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - more for later buses but loads is applicable to ours

http://www.vw-resource.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - more aimed at beetles but again lots of applicable information.

Hope this helps. Have fun :D
 
Thanks so much guys, a lot of very helpful tips above!!

@Mister......Books are ordered, thanks ;) very helpful!!!!
@Jono, I'm based in Aberdeen, I'm pretty mechanically minded, but a novice on this!! But I'm going to learn all I can, just want it to go to a specialist first!!
Happy stamps, thanks for the advice, reckon I will need to get the garage to check most of that though, but I will get them to show me what to do.
Thanks for the advice Matt!!

I will let you guys know how I get on!!!!
 
Wow happystamps, thanks mate, much appreciated :) Loads of good tips there, I'm on it like a car bonnet :)
 
donallanwalker said:
Thanks so much guys, a lot of very helpful tips above!!

@Mister......Books are ordered, thanks ;) very helpful!!!!
@Jono, I'm based in Aberdeen, I'm pretty mechanically minded, but a novice on this!! But I'm going to learn all I can, just want it to go to a specialist first!!
Happy stamps, thanks for the advice, reckon I will need to get the garage to check most of that though, but I will get them to show me what to do.
Thanks for the advice Matt!!

I will let you guys know how I get on!!!!


Aye, you'll probably want to use a garage for the CO level at least. An analogue dwell tester can be had second hand for a tenner and it really does make a difference. Timing light can be made yourself- I used a 12V motorcycle indicator which works perfectly. Only real expense would be a CO meter- mine was £50 second hand- plus you'll want them to show you about or do it themselves at first>
Good luck to ya, any more questions just post 'em up.
 

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