Which type of ball joint splitter??

[currylager]

Which is the most effective type of ball joint splitter Impact or screw type?. Need to buy one soon and want to be sure it will split the front suspension ball joints :roll:

 

[Justin & Muttley]

Either will work - but i've always felt that the impact type is a bit brutal!
I'd go with the screw type if £££'s allow!

 

[Araon]

WHS - control the force

ooohh gone a bit Star warsy there

 

[ianscooby]

Either will work - but i've always felt that the impact type is a bit brutal!
I'd go with the screw type if £££'s allow!

deffo go for the screw type, lot easier and your not swinging a hammer near any panel work

 

[Guest]

i havent found a BJ splitter big enough yet to handle the Bus upper BJs, i just can't find one online and ive already wasted £70+ on inferior smaller ones

the only thing i found to work was a large hammer, flat ended bar and some brute force.

 

[currylager]

I'l have a look for a screw type one then, i've got a selection of chisels but i'll keep an eye out for a steel bar too. :wink: Thanks for the advice.

 

[Guest]

try to get somthing blunt if you do need to whack it, as i found using the chisel made a few large cuts in the arm and also slipped and damaged the ball joint taper after i lost my temper with it

ive heard of some people hitting it side on with a hammer and another hammer on the other side to steady it. Apparently it deforms ring of the joint just enough to make it loosen/pop-out, but i dont think id like to try that.

 

[67 BAY]

Never been able to find a balljoint splitter with a wide enough fork end for bus balljoints.i always use BETTY a 2lb ballpein hammer.If splitting both balljoints,the bottom balljoint tends to be the most stubborn,loosen both nuts so there nearly off the threadbut leave on(saves on damaging thread and saves broken limbs when it breaks taper and drops) hit bottom of stubaxle where bottom bj goes through, top bj tends to split from taper without hitting it due toweight of stubaxle and shock.Hope this helps. STEVE

 

[currylager]

Cheers Steve, will bear that in mind, i can imagine myself starting to strip the suspension in a calm organised manner and finishing sweating in a pile of bent bars and spanners, thats usually how those challlenging jobs turn out. I also saw a type of ball joint splitter fork that can be used with an air chisel, i wonder how effective it really is?? Soúnds great in theory but in practice is another matter.

 

[Guest]

like mentioned above, i would avoid forks as youll damage the boots and i found fitting new boots is a pain in the arse with those fiddly circ clips.

 

[currylager]

I was also wondering whether it was possible just to remove the torsion arms and hub assembly from the torsion leaves in one lump??. I know it would be heavy but it would save splitting the ball joints alltogether. I wonder if anyone has tried this :roll:

 

[Justin & Muttley]

I was also wondering whether it was possible just to remove the torsion arms and hub assembly from the torsion leaves in one lump??. I know it would be heavy but it would save splitting the ball joints alltogether. I wonder if anyone has tried this :roll:

Possibly - the Red9 kit instructions give that impression...

http://www.red9design.com/EZriderfitting.htm

 

[67 BAY]

I've done it that way before, but trying to put both arms in and locating them onto torsion bars while holding weight of the disc or drum is a real bitch.If you do it that way get a mate to give you a hand.

 

[currylager]

Its gotta be easier than splitting ball joints and having to renew damaged gaiters surely?. Bet i could support the hub with a jack? If i was really clever there would be no reason to disconnect the brake hoses and no brake bleeding either All i need to to is to drop the front beam so i can weld in some adjusters, if i could do that the job would be a lot more straighforward :wink:

 

[67 BAY]

You'll probabaly have to disconnect flexis to alllow arms toclear theaxle tubes.