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I can't imagine never having a bike ... I just love riding!

Sweet indeed :D

Thanks Trikky! I think many of us don't know that there are two VERY different thermostats and this leads to confusion when our research does not specify which type is being discussed. There is the original bellows type and the new spring type. Now that you explained how the bellows type...

Even though VW produced vehicles that are simple enough for the common citizen to repair, it's a challenge for some of us to understand the many whats, hows and most importantly the whys involved to diagnose and repair problems and have our buses run safely on the road. Why is it futile to test...

Yup :) Before you unscrew the nut from the back of the speedo, put a wrap of tape, leaving a "tail", to stop the nut from sliding all the way down the cable between the various nose panels. It can be a bugger to get the nut back up to the speedo when that happens :?

Whether you buy new, NOS or find a nice used one, I'd do the "stovetop testing" method in this link to make sure that it works properly. It's a quick test that could save you an engine ... and it works! http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

How exactly are you bleeding the brakes? It's an exact science otherwise air will be reintroduced into the system even with all new components. Re-check for the slightest drip of brake fluid along the entire length of your new system to make sure there are absolutely no leaks. Do this again...

If you don't have the build date, find it here ... http://www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I would use that for the registration date.

Mine panel van is Jan 68 ... no firewall from the factory, but I fit one as others have done. Here's more info ... http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=59484" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I agree 100% with Trikky. Sort it out now at little cost before you need to replace the bearing and clutch at mucho cost.

There sure is but once lowered 3 inches or more ... you'd have to be airborne to hit the lower bumpstops :lol:

I had the same problem when I lowered my front end by 3 inches, until I had a look and noticed that I forgot the stops. Clip in a bump stops on the top and it will eliminate the loud bang when metal hits metal, even though the ride comfort will still be the same.

Agreed. Have you gone under the bus while someone turns the steering to have a look at all of the components? How's the rubber steering coupler and fasteners? How are the linkages? Where is the noise coming from exactly? Hope it something simple to fix.

My new seal came in one longer piece which I did not cut, to avoid any unnecessary openings for heat and dirt to enter the engine bay. It was easy to install the apron as long as the seal's channels in the body are nice and clean. I'm in Canada so this might not be available to you, but it is a...

I have never done it but kept these links just in case. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=258376&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO2ZVLDQFlQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I thought the headlight glass was made to be installed with only one proper orientation. Have a look at the complex lense patterns which are different for the left and right headlights, and maybe even rhd vs lhd buses. The glass directs the light for optimal roadway lighting so rotating it would...

I'd try rekeying the lock to match your door key. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes please. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=312340&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can go 3 inches lower which makes a huge difference in the ride height. If you have a VERY limited budget and can do the work yourself, like I did, weld in adjusters on the front beam and drop it one or two notches in the rear. Search through my pics and you will see what one spline in the...

Will do ... thanks.