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So I set the timing to 7.5 BTC using a timing light (with vacuum pipe off) and reset the carb screws (PICT34) to 2.5 turns out on each and it ran fine, after a few miles I had to screw in the bypass screw a bit to slow down tick over but it's not pulling away too bad tbh. I'll see how it goes...

Yeah I’ve had it running but it’s spluttering when pulling away, which is doing my head in, it improves slightly when warm but still annoying. I’ll go back to 7.5 and start again.

Standard 1600, new Accuspark vacuum distributor & coil, standard oil bath filter (no cable attached to flap so only taking in air from engine compartment), new plugs & HT leads, PICT34 stripped, cleaned & rebuilt.

According to the Haynes manual my timing should be set to 5 deg ATC but there's no way my engine will run set to this. If I set it to around 5 deg BTC then it ticks over ok but coughs and splutters on pull away. If I set it by ear and trial and error, I can get the van to pull away fine and the...

OK so how do I access above the gearbox? Is it a faff or is there a secret to it? Thx

Mine is between the mechanical fuel pump and the carb, above the distributor, I've seen from another post it's not a good location :shock: Can someone point me in the direction of exactly the best location pls? Thanks

It's the early type with the manually operated flap. It has a lever on the side of the intake that is obviously meant to be operated by a cable or something but there is nothing connected to it.

I've removed the oil bath air filter for cleaning and have a couple of questions: First of all there is nothing connected to the lever on the air intake flap. The Haynes manual says it should connect to the bellows thermostat that controls engine cooling flaps...I have no idea where this is or...

Thanks for all of your advice. In the end I decided to strip and rebuild the carb with a refurb kit which seems to have solved most of the problem. This brings me on to the oil bath filter though, I'll start another thread for that...

It's got an Accuspark SVDA distributor

So I've read all of the set-up guides but having trouble adjusting carb correctly - Volume control screw is set 2.5 turns out - Bypass screw is set 2 turns out Engine ticks over nicely but when I pull away it splutters and tries to die, so I have to drop the clutch and rev the engine to get it...

I'm thinking of fitting an electric fuel pump. A mate has an old Comma camper and he recons it's transformed starting as fuel is available immediately but are there any disadvantages? Assuming it's a good idea; where is the best place to locate an electric pump and any recommendations for which...

Do these exist??? My early bay has late bay discs on the front and late bay drums on the back. I'd like to fit early bay steel wheels but obviously the stud spacing is wrong....any ideas?

Thanks, yes I’ve been told the vacuum is more responsive so I might stick with the SVDA and just convert to electronic

I'm thinking of replacing my standard points vacuum distributor for an Accuspark 009 centrifugal electronic type. It all looks pretty straight forward but was wondering what to do with the vacuum port, do I just cap it off?

Set of 4 x Late bay wheels with nearly new tyres - covered a couple of hundred miles Kumho Portran KC53 185/80 R14C 102/100R Pics on request £200 no offers Collection only from TW15 2LS

Set of 4 x Late bay wheels with nearly new tyres - covered a couple of hundred miles Kumho Portran KC53 185/80 R14C 102/100R Pics on request £200 no offers Collection only from TW15 2LS

I adopted this method today and it filled with no problem. It doesn't help that my fuel gauge isn't working.

Is it just me or does anyone else have trouble with the petrol pump keeping cutting out when filling up? Any advise welcome on how to prevent this happening pls as getting a bit peed off with it :x

Similar to mine. I got the same results by fitting 2" drop spindles from JK on the front and going down 1 spline on the back. Also fitted 185/60 R15 tyres which dropped it another inch and stopped 99% of rubbing on arches. I have new dampers for the front with will hopefully resolve the rub...