carb reccomendations

[albatross]

i'm thinking of running a single progressive carb on my bay (1641)
anyone any reccomendations - whats good and what to avoid?
thanks al

 

[six]

a proper weber 32/36 is prolly your best bet. but they are hard to get really right. is there any reason not to go for dual ict 34s or dual solexs imo they are easier to get right and run really well?

 

[albatross]

a proper weber 32/36 is prolly your best bet. but they are hard to get really right. is there any reason not to go for dual ict 34s or dual solexs imo they are easier to get right and run really well?

got ict 34's on now but cannot get them running right at all, they were bought second hand and one of them won't idle, re built the engine myself (first attempt) with some guidance from a mechanic who i'm now starting to realise is a bit rough.

i.e push rod tube gaskets pretty much twisted 90 degrees, so much so thart they rub on the push rods (he fitted tubes heads etc) and pissing out oil, his answer to this was 'it's a vw - it's meant to leak'

he also advised me to hone barrels and fit the old piston rings, most of my mates are mechanically minded and have since told me that for the sake of a few pounds new piston rings are a must

so anyway the plan is to rebuild top end next weekend, new piston rings, gaskets fitted properly and sort the carbs out, i'd happily stick with twin carbs but then some people say progressive better as you don't have to balance them, so i thought i'd post this and see if anyone has any opinions?
thanks

 

[ronmidg]

Have had a progressive on the 2l bay, now twin dellortos, and ict's on the split. The ict's were the easiest to set up and live with. The progressive had unheated manifold and was virtually unuseable 9 months of the year, but great in summer. 4 barrels means small jets which block in the blink of an eye, and 4 accel pumps and rubbish economy.

 

[sparkywig]

I had a Weber 32/36 on a 1679 for years with no problems, ran well and the economy was OK.
I've got twin 34's on my single port at the moment, but also went through a pair of used ones first. The emulsion tubes corrode into the carb body, block up and can't be removed, this is probably the cause of the poor running (and they're not jetted correctly either).

 

[six]

got ict 34's on now but cannot get them running right at all, they were bought second hand and one of them won't idle, re built the engine myself (first attempt) with some guidance from a mechanic who i'm now starting to realise is a bit rough.

i.e push rod tube gaskets pretty much twisted 90 degrees, so much so thart they rub on the push rods (he fitted tubes heads etc) and pissing out oil, his answer to this was 'it's a vw - it's meant to leak'

he also advised me to hone barrels and fit the old piston rings, most of my mates are mechanically minded and have since told me that for the sake of a few pounds new piston rings are a must

so anyway the plan is to rebuild top end next weekend, new piston rings, gaskets fitted properly and sort the carbs out, i'd happily stick with twin carbs but then some people say progressive better as you don't have to balance them, so i thought i'd post this and see if anyone has any opinions?
thanks

dude that sucks real bad run there. the so called mechanic should be shot!

as long as the seats for the pushrod tubes have not gone oval then a decent set of elring gaskets, some wellseal and making sure you point the seam of your pushrod tubes up are normall more than enough to prevent leaks.

agree with your mates.. why bother honing barels and not fit new rings!

ict 34's are nice but like anything if they are all corroded up of course they wont work. Its a pretty basic carb, sound like they just need a complete strip down and rebuilt. My dells were pretty shocking when i got them.. i stripped them completely then stuck them in a bucket of diesel/petrol mix for the week while at work ( a bit long 24hrs would be a good soak time) then i cleaned them up with a brass brush and put them together as per manual.

The gotchas i found re-building carnbs is
make sure you blow some air through the petrol channels. stick ur finger where the air comes out and compare. Ive one set of bike carbs where one carb was not as free flowing.. cleaned it out with pipe cleaner and a nice chuck of crud fell out! spotting things like that will save a million hours later trying to figure out why that barrel is running lean!
also check all the braasware for the same (etubes and jets etc etc)
make sure you have the right jets instaled
then also check float height and needle valve.

I know thats mostly common sense. dont want to teach u to suck eggs etc,

oh and balancing cards with a vac guage shouldnt be that hard if they are fluctuating that much you may have a vac leak,, maybe on manifolds etc.

thanks
.. and good luck keep us posted

 

[albatross]

got ict 34's on now but cannot get them running right at all, they were bought second hand and one of them won't idle, re built the engine myself (first attempt) with some guidance from a mechanic who i'm now starting to realise is a bit rough.

i.e push rod tube gaskets pretty much twisted 90 degrees, so much so thart they rub on the push rods (he fitted tubes heads etc) and pissing out oil, his answer to this was 'it's a vw - it's meant to leak'

he also advised me to hone barrels and fit the old piston rings, most of my mates are mechanically minded and have since told me that for the sake of a few pounds new piston rings are a must

so anyway the plan is to rebuild top end next weekend, new piston rings, gaskets fitted properly and sort the carbs out, i'd happily stick with twin carbs but then some people say progressive better as you don't have to balance them, so i thought i'd post this and see if anyone has any opinions?
thanks

dude that sucks real bad run there. the so called mechanic should be shot!

as long as the seats for the pushrod tubes have not gone oval then a decent set of elring gaskets, some wellseal and making sure you point the seam of your pushrod tubes up are normall more than enough to prevent leaks.

agree with your mates.. why bother honing barels and not fit new rings!

ict 34's are nice but like anything if they are all corroded up of course they wont work. Its a pretty basic carb, sound like they just need a complete strip down and rebuilt. My dells were pretty shocking when i got them.. i stripped them completely then stuck them in a bucket of diesel/petrol mix for the week while at work ( a bit long 24hrs would be a good soak time) then i cleaned them up with a brass brush and put them together as per manual.

The gotchas i found re-building carnbs is
make sure you blow some air through the petrol channels. stick ur finger where the air comes out and compare. Ive one set of bike carbs where one carb was not as free flowing.. cleaned it out with pipe cleaner and a nice chuck of crud fell out! spotting things like that will save a million hours later trying to figure out why that barrel is running lean!
also check all the braasware for the same (etubes and jets etc etc)
make sure you have the right jets instaled
then also check float height and needle valve.

I know thats mostly common sense. dont want to teach u to suck eggs etc,

oh and balancing cards with a vac guage shouldnt be that hard if they are fluctuating that much you may have a vac leak,, maybe on manifolds etc.

thanks
.. and good luck keep us posted

thanks for the advice, just seem to have had everything that can go wrong all happen at once, the van is meant to be one of our wedding cars, we're getting married in three weeks and have had to accept that it might not be ready in time at this rate. like i said cheers for the advice

 

[Guest]

Weird as i just happened to be reading these articles last night :lol:

that first one gives really simple information on how to get it setup right.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=386388&highlight=progressive" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://reviews.ebay.com/Air-Cooled-VW-Progressive-Weber-Carburetor-Set-Up_W0QQugidZ10000000008358609" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;