dubberdaz
Well-known member
Am lovin that look guys! 8) Would love to go that way but £1000 for 2/4 inch's is a lot when you already have disks and servo on a 71 
That would pay for a nice motor....
That would pay for a nice motor....
CB Split Bus Narrowed Beams Converted to fit Bays!
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Rikki James said:Now your talking, good work!
I had a 4" narrowed beam on my samba, have now had it modified to 6"
each side and am lov'in it!
I just read the Camper mag feature on this... seems to be the best way to go.
im wondering if that CE bagged beam would go on an earlly bay? and what sort of bags could you get to fit the back? had anyone bagged an EB yet?
my problem is the speed bumps round my way arent speed bumps, theyre speed mountains
, i swear they are a full 8-10 inches high! my stock bug already has problems on them.
Hi,
Found a narrowed beam on ebay for £400.
Called the guy and he recons he could do me a 4inch narrowed beam for £500 fully fitted.
Has anyone heard of East Coast Slammers based in Linconshire?
Dave
Found a narrowed beam on ebay for £400.
Called the guy and he recons he could do me a 4inch narrowed beam for £500 fully fitted.
Has anyone heard of East Coast Slammers based in Linconshire?
Dave
ddffrost said:
To slam and keep the ride quality you would most likely need dropped spindles that would cost minimum £350 for king & link pin. I'd budget for the whole set up around £1000.
I went down this route on my last Bus. Looked great but a lot of money as i also fitted CSP Disc brakes and alloys.
I'd fit disc's again as they did make a difference but not the rest. I've learnt my lesson in spending too much on things that aren't really needed.
I don't want to come accross as trying to tell you what to do, however read on other posts that you have mentioned that you want to get the brakes sorted, engine, rubbers etc......................
I' get all of these done first as more essential. Drive it for the summer and get a feel for the van with it's existing setup.
Not saying this applies to you but I've heard of people spending loads on vans and when it's comes to drive them don't like it and sell on.
I aim to enjoy mine as don't resent it as a money pit, unlike the split.
I've also set out to do mine with the aim that should i need to sell i'll always get my money back by not going OTT.
For the record i lost over £10k on the last van and looking back i was such a fool. If only i bought the one i've got now back them i'd be richer and wouldn't have wasted years getting restored.
nice! she was a beauty though, wish my old 13window deluxe looked as good as that. Mine was becoming a money drain and I was never happy with the way it was. I sold it before it sucked me dry and brought a tidy little bay from the states for 1/3 of the sale price, im well happy with it
To add something relevant to the original post, I brought some dropped spindles from roadhouse retro and they were great quality. Cant recommend them enough!
To add something relevant to the original post, I brought some dropped spindles from roadhouse retro and they were great quality. Cant recommend them enough!
CJ70westy said:nice! she was a beauty though, wish my old 13window deluxe looked as good as that. Mine was becoming a money drain and I was never happy with the way it was. I sold it before it sucked me dry and brought a tidy little bay from the states for 1/3 of the sale price, im well happy with it
It did suck me dry :shock:
Monkeyspinner Tim
Well-known member
The price of doing this conversion is going up and up as you have nothing to exchange example trailing arms etc and they are becoming harder and harder to source... T2D are now charging around £565 for a pair of K&L dropped spindles and your going to pay £100-120 for a set of trailing arms... ad another £300 for the beam and a load more for all the nik naks that go with it and all of a sudden it's a lot of money. fitting is fairly straight forward but any bus after Aug 69 will need the chassis legs notching to clear the track rods if you want to go as low as Steves blue 69 you see in this thread. i'm charging around £2k to do the whole job including parts and labour including dropping the rear too. i wouldnt have thought anyone else out there will do it for a lot less but may be wrong...
Monkeyspinner Tim
Well-known member
Rikki James said:
So your beam is narrowed 12"s now... surely that means the wheels will sit inside the chassis legs? :lol:
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£2K doesnt seem too bad when you add it all up.
what is the best combo to go low and narrow keeping balljoint setup? obviously dropped spindles, adjusters and narrow beam? guess ive answered my own question but whats the max drop you could achieve without damaging ball joints? 2.5" from the spindles + 3" from the adjusters?
what is the best combo to go low and narrow keeping balljoint setup? obviously dropped spindles, adjusters and narrow beam? guess ive answered my own question but whats the max drop you could achieve without damaging ball joints? 2.5" from the spindles + 3" from the adjusters?
Monkeyspinner Tim
Well-known member
Johnnyâ„¢ said:
dunno, don't do ball joints on lowered vehicles... period!
faux
Well-known member
There seems to be a debate about why to do this and if it is too expensive!
If you want to lower your bus beyond where ball joints can handle then this is the only way to go. I had a bay lowered just using adjusters and it was way to harsh for me. I used this method on my last split and I vowed that if it could be done I would do it on a bay....luckily Tim and Paul (T2d) offered all of the advice....thanks guys. Also you don't have to use a narrowed beam....Tims bus is on a standard width split beam with good offset wheels....and it rocks.
Yes it is expensive but the only way to go, I love the way my bus handles and looks now. It was relatively easy to do too.
If you want to lower your bus beyond where ball joints can handle then this is the only way to go. I had a bay lowered just using adjusters and it was way to harsh for me. I used this method on my last split and I vowed that if it could be done I would do it on a bay....luckily Tim and Paul (T2d) offered all of the advice....thanks guys. Also you don't have to use a narrowed beam....Tims bus is on a standard width split beam with good offset wheels....and it rocks.
Yes it is expensive but the only way to go, I love the way my bus handles and looks now. It was relatively easy to do too.
smudge
Well-known member
ive got a 4" wagenswest beam to fit to mine..the website says it fits 55-79 buses.I can understand this as its drilled for both paterns.What i dont is..can i run either KnL ORBall joint? :?:
If i cant then does anyone fancy a deal on a 4" for a 2"?
If i cant then does anyone fancy a deal on a 4" for a 2"?
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pretty sure K&L beams differ from ball joint. if you go K&L is really expensive as dropped spindles are dearer than BJ ones?
i only want a mild drop, spindles + adjusters, whats my total safe max drop without wrecking the ball joints? i thought it would be around 5 inches? which is more then enough for me.
i only want a mild drop, spindles + adjusters, whats my total safe max drop without wrecking the ball joints? i thought it would be around 5 inches? which is more then enough for me.
smudge
Well-known member
Johnnyâ„¢ said:
Not if you know where to look..mine are being done in a week at the cost of £180 :wink:
Justin & Muttley
Well-known member
smudge said:
Do tell...
smudge
Well-known member
Ill give him a cal and ask if he minds me putting people in touchJustin & Mutley said:smudge said:
Do tell...
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smudge said:
definetly mates rates? :shock:
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