Cooling your engine.
- Thread starter pete nice
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lemonyellow
Well-known member
deep sump and oil cooler just in front of the gearbox
froggy
Well-known member
I'm running standard cooling but then i have a standard engine 
two benders steve
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hi standard dog house , thin deep sump and remote fan assisted cooler (with thermostatic switch) comes on at 180 ish i think (which only happens if i nail it on the motorway, hope this helps, steve
Monster966
Well-known member
Mine runs a deep sump, full flow & external cooler with thermostatic controlled fan on a 1776. It works really well, never goes over the set temp of 180 no matter how I drive it.
Whats the best size cooler?
I was thinking a 48 row. looks like a fan is a good idea. My high ratio gearbox means the engine revs are low, so the fan is slower. After a thrash on road test at 85mph the oil light is on at idle.
It goes out when I touch the throttle. I will do an oil change when I fit the deep sump.
I was thinking a 48 row. looks like a fan is a good idea. My high ratio gearbox means the engine revs are low, so the fan is slower. After a thrash on road test at 85mph the oil light is on at idle.
It goes out when I touch the throttle. I will do an oil change when I fit the deep sump.
Araon
Well-known member
deep sump and 72 plate with fan.....
could someone either provide or point me to a description for numpties of the otions for additional cooling
i've been round the scene for years, but never quite grasped the ins ad outs of this elusive art
perhaps that's why i am on my 3rd engine.... :roll:
edited to add: i'm thinking of a new gearbox, and sounds like i could end up in the same position as mr nice, so wanna plan ahead to avoid
i've been round the scene for years, but never quite grasped the ins ad outs of this elusive art
perhaps that's why i am on my 3rd engine.... :roll:
edited to add: i'm thinking of a new gearbox, and sounds like i could end up in the same position as mr nice, so wanna plan ahead to avoid
I am off to VW Heritage in the morning for a 72 row with fan. I might as well spend the wedge now instead of rebuilding my motor.
As the gearbox is so high geared, the fan is spinning slower than it should. Therefore it doesn't cool the engine as well at high speed.
My 2007 is a big old lump of metal & produces heat quickly, with only 2.5 litres of oil to keep it cool, it just can't get rid of the heat.
The deep sump will give more oil & the cooler will cool it down. That should sort it out I hope.
I am going to Plymfest, so I need to get on it!
As the gearbox is so high geared, the fan is spinning slower than it should. Therefore it doesn't cool the engine as well at high speed.
My 2007 is a big old lump of metal & produces heat quickly, with only 2.5 litres of oil to keep it cool, it just can't get rid of the heat.
The deep sump will give more oil & the cooler will cool it down. That should sort it out I hope.
I am going to Plymfest, so I need to get on it!
You can get smaller pulleys which will turn the fan quicker.
Driving a bit slower and not thrashing your engine is the best way to keep the temperature down. I drive at 55-60 and have never had temperature issues, even towing a caravan to Vanwest from deepest Cornwall in a stock Bay with twin Dell's on it.
Driving a bit slower and not thrashing your engine is the best way to keep the temperature down. I drive at 55-60 and have never had temperature issues, even towing a caravan to Vanwest from deepest Cornwall in a stock Bay with twin Dell's on it.
Im going around europe in the summer estimate 4k miles, what you recommend cooling wise? i was thinking something with a over ride switch so i can turn it on when stuck in traffic, is this possible? Im running stock 1600 sp. Any help would be great
Araon
Well-known member
generally they come with a thermostatically controlled fan far more reliable that the grey matter
Loxy
Well-known member
mattd1984 said:
Stock cooling on a stock engine
less to go wrong as well.Your engine shouldnt overheat in traffic if its in good condition and properly setup.
What he said. A stock engine should be fine even on long trips. VW Do know what they are doing, it only goes tits up when we start messing with it.
I got the cooler & reckon it will fit just between the torsion housing & rear cross member, it is a bit tight, but will keep the oil lines short.
You can see it is just wedged in place, I will weld up some mounting tabs for it on Monday. I will get the oil lines made up for it too. I will need to wire in the fan to something, not sure the easiest way yet...
The deep sump is on, new 10/40 semi synthetic with new oil filter. You can just see where the cooler will live. It shouldn't get hit by anything either.
I am a bit worried that the van is a bit low, the deep sump is not that far from the ground.
Ignore the puddle of oil, it was windy when I drained the oil & blew everywhere.
Where can you get a smaller top pulley from? You need to be careful as at some point you can get fan stall, ie, the fan spins so fast, no air goes through it.
I got the cooler & reckon it will fit just between the torsion housing & rear cross member, it is a bit tight, but will keep the oil lines short.
You can see it is just wedged in place, I will weld up some mounting tabs for it on Monday. I will get the oil lines made up for it too. I will need to wire in the fan to something, not sure the easiest way yet...
The deep sump is on, new 10/40 semi synthetic with new oil filter. You can just see where the cooler will live. It shouldn't get hit by anything either.
I am a bit worried that the van is a bit low, the deep sump is not that far from the ground.
Ignore the puddle of oil, it was windy when I drained the oil & blew everywhere.
Where can you get a smaller top pulley from? You need to be careful as at some point you can get fan stall, ie, the fan spins so fast, no air goes through it.
I have the cooler plumbed in now, There is over 5 litres of oil in there now. I have temporary wired in the fan straight to the ignition. I need the van for PlymFest & don't know if I will have time to fit a switch & gauge. I will get a thermo switch to go in the filter housing eventually.
Once I fit the EFI, the Megasquirt brain will control the fan.
On today's road test, I wound the van round to about 85mph down the dual carriageway as before, then pulled over to check over the van. There is no oil light on now & the cooler is nice & cool.
So far so good...
Once I fit the EFI, the Megasquirt brain will control the fan.
On today's road test, I wound the van round to about 85mph down the dual carriageway as before, then pulled over to check over the van. There is no oil light on now & the cooler is nice & cool.
So far so good...
While we're on the subject - where do you take your oil temp from, and what readings do you get?
Mine runs as high as 240 pushing it hard on the m-way, but doesn't seem to be over-heating, no power loss, dipstick isn't scorching hot and oil pressure fine....
My sender is somewhere to the right of the pulley, haven't really investigated fully. :lol:
Mine runs as high as 240 pushing it hard on the m-way, but doesn't seem to be over-heating, no power loss, dipstick isn't scorching hot and oil pressure fine....
My sender is somewhere to the right of the pulley, haven't really investigated fully. :lol:
Trikky2
Well-known member
Modded T1 2017cc with IDF's and ss quietpack exhaust - running at 8.5:1 compression ratio. Stock sump, pulleys and doghouse cooler. Fullflow filter. Runs at 70 to 90. On motorways in southern Spain, in the heat of summer at 80mph, it runs 105 to 110.
Temp sender has been checked and is correct at 100 - takes a reading of oil temp as it enters the main oilway, close to the original pressure sender.
This clearly shows the stock system is perfectly adequate. A stock engine definitely does not need extra cooling. If its getting too hot then either the guage is not reading correctly or there is something wrong with the engine and adding extra cooling is treating the symptom and not the cause.
Because they have become collectors toys many new owners seem to forget that these vehicles were sold worldwide and operated in all conditions from the north of Norway to the deserts of Africa completely stock. If you think its going to overheat on the roads of Britain imagine how hot it gets flat out in third or second gear ploughing through the sand of the desert whilst heavily loaded.
Temp sender has been checked and is correct at 100 - takes a reading of oil temp as it enters the main oilway, close to the original pressure sender.
This clearly shows the stock system is perfectly adequate. A stock engine definitely does not need extra cooling. If its getting too hot then either the guage is not reading correctly or there is something wrong with the engine and adding extra cooling is treating the symptom and not the cause.
Because they have become collectors toys many new owners seem to forget that these vehicles were sold worldwide and operated in all conditions from the north of Norway to the deserts of Africa completely stock. If you think its going to overheat on the roads of Britain imagine how hot it gets flat out in third or second gear ploughing through the sand of the desert whilst heavily loaded.
I'd be wondering why my oil light was coming on with 10w40 in there. I'm running a fairly peppy 2080 with 6-rib box. No deep sump, no extra cooler and I'm getting nothing over 100c on a calibrated gauge. Thats with semi-synth 5w30. Your oil light should not be coming on at all, extra cooler or not.
Put fan on thermostat. Overcooled oil is really not good for an engine running at speed.
Put fan on thermostat. Overcooled oil is really not good for an engine running at speed.
