Engine overheating?

[naskeet]

Hahahah got a gauge fettish maybe? Hahah and Stella would be a reference to an Ale of sorts maybe? I get you don’t like alcohol but no likes a lead bottom or drunks I get it! But a little hummer can go a fair way to smoothing things I hope you all have a good day.

Anyway what I really want to know is when fitting a hot-rodded Type 4 engine into our busses, other than just fitting an oil cooler what mods can we do to the tinware to increase cooling due to you know a hotted up Type 4 engine?

My preference is for tea with milk, but no sugar. Alternatively, I am quite partial to various fruit juices, such as orange, grapefruit, lemon, lime, pineapple, mango, grape or guava.

People don't need to be "drunk" in order to be a greater danger when driving. Just a half-pint of beer or cider or similar quantity of alcohol from other beverages, has a measurable detrimental effect on one's judgement & reaction-times. To be on the safe side, I work on the basis that one should allow 48 hours before resuming driving, if one has been consuming any alcohol.

Make sure ALL of the casting-flash on the cylinder-head fins and inside of the aluminium-alloy fan housing, plus the fan-blades of fan & fan-hub. Use the type of fan which is used on The VW 411 & 412, which has three recessed socket-head fixing-screws instead of bolts, and a plastic conical centre. Add internal & external fins to the cylinder-head rocker covers.

Ensure that the thermostat mechanism & air-flow control-flaps function correctly without binding. Ensure that there is no oil, dirt or debris inhibiting heat transfer or restricting air-flow through the oil-cooler matrix or oil-flow though the oil-cooler's oil galleries.

One might wish to blue-print the oil-pump and mating oil galleries, plus notching the connecting-rods as recommended in one of the official Volkswagen factory bulletins, to provide spray oil-cooling for the underside of the pistons. One might also consider black-anodising the cylinder heads and crankcase to possibly increase radiant heat transfer slightly.

VW Type 4 oil pump – factory stock & modified

The VW flat-4 engines, are equipped with a positive-displacement, rotary, gear, oil pump; sometimes referred to as a positive-rotary gear pump.

In Bill Fisher's book re hot-rodding VW air-cooled engines, there is a reference to one after-market oil pump suffering from cavitation problems.

In an old book of mine, Herbert Addison, "The Pump Users' Handbook", Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons Ltd., 1958, Chapter 8 – Cavitation: Its Causes And Prevention, Pages 70~76, there are some relevant paragraphs, which address this issue:

« In positive-rotary pumps, cavitation sometimes manifests itself in a high-frequency vibration or rattling noise. Only experience with a particular pump and a particular liquid will show what are safe operating limits; and it is the manufacturer who should be able to give advice on this point. »

« In such machines and indeed in all positive-displacement pumps, conditions on the delivery side of the system, are quite without influence on cavitation on the suction side. It is only the suction head that matters, and not the delivery head. »

 

[naskeet]

My preference is for tea with milk, but no sugar. Alternatively, I am quite partial to various fruit juices, such as orange, grapefruit, lemon, lime, pineapple, mango, grape or guava.

People don't need to be "drunk" in order to be a greater danger when driving. Just a half-pint of beer or cider or similar quantity of alcohol from other beverages, has a measurable detrimental effect on one's judgement & reaction-times. To be on the safe side, I work on the basis that one should allow 48 hours before resuming driving, if one has been consuming any alcohol.

Make sure ALL of the casting-flash on the cylinder-head fins and inside of the aluminium-alloy fan housing, plus the fan-blades of fan & fan-hub. Use the type of fan which is used on The VW 411 & 412, which has three recessed socket-head fixing-screws instead of bolts, and a plastic conical centre. Add internal & external fins to the cylinder-head rocker covers.

Ensure that the thermostat mechanism & air-flow control-flaps function correctly without binding. Ensure that there is no oil, dirt or debris inhibiting heat transfer or restricting air-flow through the oil-cooler matrix or oil-flow though the oil-cooler's oil galleries.

One might wish to blue-print the oil-pump and mating oil galleries, plus notching the connecting-rods as recommended in one of the official Volkswagen factory bulletins, to provide spray oil-cooling for the underside of the pistons. One might also consider black-anodising the cylinder heads and crankcase to possibly increase radiant heat transfer slightly.

VW Type 4 oil pump – factory stock & modified

The VW flat-4 engines, are equipped with a positive-displacement, rotary, gear, oil pump; sometimes referred to as a positive-rotary gear pump.

In Bill Fisher's book re hot-rodding VW air-cooled engines, there is a reference to one after-market oil pump suffering from cavitation problems.

In an old book of mine, Herbert Addison, "The Pump Users' Handbook", Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons Ltd., 1958, Chapter 8 – Cavitation: Its Causes And Prevention, Pages 70~76, there are some relevant paragraphs, which address this issue:

« In positive-rotary pumps, cavitation sometimes manifests itself in a high-frequency vibration or rattling noise. Only experience with a particular pump and a particular liquid will show what are safe operating limits; and it is the manufacturer who should be able to give advice on this point. »

« In such machines and indeed in all positive-displacement pumps, conditions on the delivery side of the system, are quite without influence on cavitation on the suction side. It is only the suction head that matters, and not the delivery head. »

If you have a SUITABLY-LARGE budget and really want to go to town, you might also wish to consider using a Porsche 911 cooling-fan conversion or DTM cooling system and/or alternative cylinder-barrels with either cast-iron barrels & stacked aluminium fins or nicasil-coated all-aluminium cylinder barrels; sometimes referred to as "Nickies".

https://lnengineering.com

https://lnengineering.com/products/...ng-process-for-porsche-nikasil-cylinders.html

https://lnengineering.com/products/porsche-and-vw-aircooled-cylinders-and-pistons.html

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store.html

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/engine-kits.html

For a "mere US$10,127", you could have one of these Camper Special PLUS, VW Type 4 engines, with 2056 cm³ displacement (i.e. 71 mm stroke x 96 mm bore) using 96 mm bore Nicasil plated cylinder barrels.

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-st...-215-228mm-flywheel-oval-or-square-ports.html

If that's too tame for you, and money is no object, there is the option of a larger displacement VW Type 4 engine for US$11,255, with 2563 cm³ displacement (i.e. 78 mm stroke x 102 mm bore) using 102 mm bore Nicasil plated cylinder barrels.

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/engine-kits/2563-190-type-4-conversion-kit.html

I suspect that the DTM cooling systems come at extra cost, with prices ranging from US$1,074•00 to US$1,750•75, dependent upon specification!

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/dtm-cooling-systems.html

 

[Munga]

My preference is for tea with milk, but no sugar. Alternatively, I am quite partial to various fruit juices, such as orange, grapefruit, lemon, lime, pineapple, mango, grape or guava.

People don't need to be "drunk" in order to be a greater danger when driving. Just a half-pint of beer or cider or similar quantity of alcohol from other beverages, has a measurable detrimental effect on one's judgement & reaction-times. To be on the safe side, I work on the basis that one should allow 48 hours before resuming driving, if one has been consuming any alcohol.

Make sure ALL of the casting-flash on the cylinder-head fins and inside of the aluminium-alloy fan housing, plus the fan-blades of fan & fan-hub. Use the type of fan which is used on The VW 411 & 412, which has three recessed socket-head fixing-screws instead of bolts, and a plastic conical centre. Add internal & external fins to the cylinder-head rocker covers.

Ensure that the thermostat mechanism & air-flow control-flaps function correctly without binding. Ensure that there is no oil, dirt or debris inhibiting heat transfer or restricting air-flow through the oil-cooler matrix or oil-flow though the oil-cooler's oil galleries.

One might wish to blue-print the oil-pump and mating oil galleries, plus notching the connecting-rods as recommended in one of the official Volkswagen factory bulletins, to provide spray oil-cooling for the underside of the pistons. One might also consider black-anodising the cylinder heads and crankcase to possibly increase radiant heat transfer slightly.

VW Type 4 oil pump – factory stock & modified

The VW flat-4 engines, are equipped with a positive-displacement, rotary, gear, oil pump; sometimes referred to as a positive-rotary gear pump.

In Bill Fisher's book re hot-rodding VW air-cooled engines, there is a reference to one after-market oil pump suffering from cavitation problems.

In an old book of mine, Herbert Addison, "The Pump Users' Handbook", Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons Ltd., 1958, Chapter 8 – Cavitation: Its Causes And Prevention, Pages 70~76, there are some relevant paragraphs, which address this issue:

« In positive-rotary pumps, cavitation sometimes manifests itself in a high-frequency vibration or rattling noise. Only experience with a particular pump and a particular liquid will show what are safe operating limits; and it is the manufacturer who should be able to give advice on this point. »

« In such machines and indeed in all positive-displacement pumps, conditions on the delivery side of the system, are quite without influence on cavitation on the suction side. It is only the suction head that matters, and not the delivery head. »

This is awesome thanks brilliant advice and at the moment I’m looking not the engine so perfect timing, I will continue my post’s and bring all along

 

[Munga]

If you have a SUITABLY-LARGE budget and really want to go to town, you might also wish to consider using a Porsche 911 cooling-fan conversion or DTM cooling system and/or alternative cylinder-barrels with either cast-iron barrels & stacked aluminium fins or nicasil-coated all-aluminium cylinder barrels; sometimes referred to as "Nickies".

https://lnengineering.com

https://lnengineering.com/products/...ng-process-for-porsche-nikasil-cylinders.html

https://lnengineering.com/products/porsche-and-vw-aircooled-cylinders-and-pistons.html

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store.html

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/engine-kits.html

For a "mere US$10,127", you could have one of these Camper Special PLUS, VW Type 4 engines, with 2056 cm³ displacement (i.e. 71 mm stroke x 96 mm bore) using 96 mm bore Nicasil plated cylinder barrels.

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-st...-215-228mm-flywheel-oval-or-square-ports.html

If that's too tame for you, and money is no object, there is the option of a larger displacement VW Type 4 engine for US$11,255, with 2563 cm³ displacement (i.e. 78 mm stroke x 102 mm bore) using 102 mm bore Nicasil plated cylinder barrels.

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/engine-kits/2563-190-type-4-conversion-kit.html

I suspect that the DTM cooling systems come at extra cost, with prices ranging from US$1,074•00 to US$1,750•75, dependent upon specification!

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/dtm-cooling-systems.html

thanks for the great advice, I’ve been researching hi and low and have come up with a game plan of my own, here is roughly how it will go.

1)Biral cylinders, cast liners with aluminium fins
2)Hyperutectic pistons, slipper type for less friction as opposed to a full skirted piston.
3) two oil coolers one on either side.
4) delete the heater boxes
5) round port exhaust ports port matched
6) larger exhaust valves for less restrictions
7) had fabricated J tubes out of stainless and exhaust tape binding for heat removal and a few othe mods should do it

 

['77 westy]

thanks for the great advice, I’ve been researching hi and low and have come up with a game plan of my own, here is roughly how it will go.

1)Biral cylinders, cast liners with aluminium fins
2)Hyperutectic pistons, slipper type for less friction as opposed to a full skirted piston.
3) two oil coolers one on either side.
4) delete the heater boxes
5) round port exhaust ports port matched
6) larger exhaust valves for less restrictions
7) had fabricated J tubes out of stainless and exhaust tape binding for heat removal and a few othe mods should do it

I’ve been running Biral cylinders with Hypereutectic slipper pistons in a 96x80 (2316cc) Type 4 engine for a few years now. Heads are 41x34, standard heat exchangers, 42mm CSP Python exhaust, 28-row external oil cooler. No overheating pushing a heavy Westy.

 

[naskeet]

thanks for the great advice, I’ve been researching hi and low and have come up with a game plan of my own, here is roughly how it will go.

1)Biral cylinders, cast liners with aluminium fins
2)Hyperutectic pistons, slipper type for less friction as opposed to a full skirted piston.
3) two oil coolers one on either side.
4) delete the heater boxes
5) round port exhaust ports port matched
6) larger exhaust valves for less restrictions
7) had fabricated J tubes out of stainless and exhaust tape binding for heat removal and a few othe mods should do it

You might want to read a few automotive tuning & modification books, before you start radically changing inlet and/or exhaust valve sizes.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Hot-Ro...t+rod+volkswagen+engines,stripbooks,98&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tuning-Generation-Engines-Power-Economy/dp/0854296093

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Performanc...BCzKzZPHObbqVZoNaVv5iIiGBx1o1s&dib_tag=AUTHOR

You might be surprised how much more air flow is possible, by "gas-flowing" the factory-standard" cylinder heads & valves.

 

[K@rlos]

thanks for the great advice, I’ve been researching hi and low and have come up with a game plan of my own, here is roughly how it will go.

1)Biral cylinders, cast liners with aluminium fins
2)Hyperutectic pistons, slipper type for less friction as opposed to a full skirted piston.
3) two oil coolers one on either side.
4) delete the heater boxes
5) round port exhaust ports port matched
6) larger exhaust valves for less restrictions
7) had fabricated J tubes out of stainless and exhaust tape binding for heat removal and a few othe mods should do it

You won’t need 2 remote coolers, if you do something is seriously off.