engine bay roof lining Q's...

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Doris

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Hi all.
you know the black roof lining in the engine bay, the card/tar impregnated thing, Well....... is it designed for sound deadening or fire resistance or both?

I've taken mine off and it looks a bit tired & twisted,I'm wondering if I could replace it with sound proofing material or if it needs to have fire resitant properties. If its the later then my next question is, can you still get new stuff,even if I have to cut it myself???
Cheers - Rob & Doris
 
put it in the search up the top, i have read about it :roll: might be on here
 
have a look here:

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-15-sound-deadening.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Woolies trim have some of high heat resistant stuff.
 
There should be at least two 'fibre pads' that are sealed in clear plastic, above the black card lining, i think they act as sound deadening.

I doubt if its fire proof but would maybe offer some resistance. But if you get a fire in there unless you have a auto extinguisher or you get lucky it wont do much good anyway.
 
Johnny said:
I doubt if its fire proof but would maybe offer some resistance. But if you get a fire in there unless you have a auto extinguisher or you get lucky it wont do much good anyway.
Thanks MAtt, thats what I was thinking as well,there is a load of surplus foam sheets that I'm going to use for sound deadening/insulation in my panels and doors, just thinking about the engine bay.

I've taken it out for the painting so It'll need replacing regardless now. :|
 
Those pads are just a fibreglass cladding akin to loft insulation just a little more dense and rigid....

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12756" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Hiya Doris,

Not a very good picture...........

IMG_0990.jpg


....but it gives you the idea of how I approached this situation. I visited my local Home Depot and rounded up a piece of rigid aluminum faced insulation board. That's the surface you see on the ceiling in the picture. Behind it is a layer of aluminum faced bubble insulation sheeting. Those two components are held together by aluminum tape at the edges.

This homemade insulation is as fireproof as most any other approach; the material "sandwich" fits nicely into the space allowed, and it was darn cheap to do.
 
That looks great bookwus thanks,even more so as its the same colour as mine. I'm thinking that's wahrt Doris will look like in a few months time!!

So if you cut it all neatly,it looks quite snug & nice, I suppose It'll help with the light in there as well as it will reflect what little light there is. Cheers!
 
i have loads of this lying around after a sunroom extension. its 3 inches thick though... is that a bit much?
 
I like the look of the shiny ally finnish 8)
Any chance the reflective finnish and insulation behind that could mess with engine bay temperature? especialy when sat in traffic.

Rich :msn4:
 
Hiya Rich,

As in increasing temperatures in the engine bay by reflecting heat?

I think not. Most heat in the engine compartment is convected heat. Were it radiated heat (as in from the sun) that radiated heat could be reflected back into the engine compartment thereby heating it. But my understanding of thermodynamics is pretty limited.

In any event, my engine compartment runs no warmer than it did before the ceiling treatment.
 
Hoosier said:
I like the look of the shiny ally finnish 8)
Any chance the reflective finnish and insulation behind that could mess with engine bay temperature? especialy when sat in traffic.

Rich :msn4:

Aircooled engines are usually over cooled when sitting static, the opposite to a water pumper, so it shouldnt be a problem
 
providing all the tinware and seals are in place, the hot zone is below the engine bay so I personally wouldn't worry about heat reflection. this idea is growing on me!
 
Hiya Doris,

If you (or any other EB member for that matter) decides to go this route for ceiling insulation, I'd be happy to supply any information you might need. Truthfully however, this is a pretty simple and straightforward affair. Nothing really difficult about it.

And I would be interested in seeing how this turns out for anybody so inclined.
 
Hi bookwus,

I was wondering what you did with those nice shiny heater hoses?
I dont want to put the old ones back because they have a lot of asbetos parts, i thought of modifying them and get rid of the asbestos parts.
How did you do it?

Harry
 
Hiya Harry,

Over here in the States (and I'm guessing you can source these things in Jolly Old also) one can purchase replacement heater tubes. These tubes come with fibreglass insulation inside. This insulation is held in place (and a pathway for warm air made) by a large spring. I didn't like the looks of that too much. I was thinking that I'd be breathing little bits of fibreglass insulation. Not very appealing.

So, I did a little looking around and found that the heater hose that's used between the fanshroud and the muffler in a Type 1 engine is just about the exact size (about 50 mm IIRC) needed inside that heater tube. I also managed to find all aluminum heater hose (instead of the more common paper/aluminum sandwich style) in that 50 mm size. So, basically I just replaced that spring with the aluminum heater hose.

Now, there is a bit of a downside to using this approach. It does tend to be a bit noisy. One definitely does hear a bit more engine sound through the heater vents.
 
Hi Bookwus,

Thanks for the detailed info!
Now, there is a bit of a downside to using this approach. It does tend to be a bit noisy. One definitely does hear a bit more engine sound through the heater vents.
I thought the insulation inside the heater vents was only to keep the heat inside :roll:

I'm wondering how many of you guys run the old vents with the asbestos inside?
 

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