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jay&kerry

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May 3, 2010
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barnsley
Got a 1600 twin port with 34 pic 3 carb.Had timing done, tappets adjusted, electrics checked also new points, condensor, rota arm, dizzy cap.was told at the garage it is the carb tried 4 different carbs checked for leaks in manifold. Tick over good when engine under load it starts to stutter.... need to gear down to get back to high revs. went up a steep hill had to use 1st gear...Starting to piss me off now anyone any ideas ???
 
garage who specials in campers set it all up an had it on computer an he suggests a new carb the last one i tried is slightly better but still stutters .. he cant fit me in at mo an off to lincolnshire van jamboree next weekend an want it running...also its using more petrol an the engine is getting very hot ..cheers :idea: :idea:
 
Just put my brothers carb on which was working fine on his an still doing the same . Just going to change fule pump. My dizzy is a 009.
 
Sorry but still think the problem is timing, not knocking your mechanic but surely after 4 different carbs all with the same problem this should tell you its not the carb especially after using your brothers known working carb,
what timing did he set the dizzy to? 009's need setting at full advance at approx 3000 rpm you cant set them at idle the way you set a SVDA dizzy.
 
PM 67 Bay (Steve) on here hes a Barnsley lad and might be able to give you a quick appraisal....

very nice man as well and usually has the kettle on

Have to agree with Froggy still sounds like the timing
 
I had similar probs - ended up swapping the 009 for an SVDA and that made a world of difference.

Also, I've found the jetting of the carb makes a bit difference - stuttering could be lean (I had to change the air corrector jet in mine to run richer) - but could also be too rich with the accelerator pump pushing it over the top. On the other hand, 4 carbs with the same issue implies its timing. What do the plugs look like?

Also, on the points, it's best to adjust with a dwell meter - my tuner chappie showed me how just a couple of thou makes quite a difference. He tends to make them just a tad narrower than the spec suggests.

All in all, a host of small changes made mine go from running like a pig, and 18mpg, to running sweet, more power, and 27mpg!
 
fitted fuel pump running brill while choke on when choke off its back to stutter.....the pipe from the fuel tank to the fuel pump when i took the pipe off the pump it was dry an no petrol came out..i was expecting petrol to come out or am i wrong..could this be the fault. cheers
 
check your coil dude, do you set timing statically or with strobe light? plugs will look sooty if running on choke, also check generator charging as weak battery can cause misfiring at higher revs could be fan belt not at correct tension.
 
merlin68 said:
check your coil dude, do you set timing statically or with strobe light? plugs will look sooty if running on choke, also check generator charging as weak battery can cause misfiring at higher revs could be fan belt not at correct tension.

I would check your coil too. Similar things were happening on a bug i had, can't remember why we changed the coil but there was a reason after some research (and we had a spare to check) did the job.

If the fuel pipe from the tank is below the tank level, then petrol should come out by simple gravity, maybe research this too, blocked filter? Maybe take the cap off the tank to check it's not holding the fuel in a sort of vacuum, if you know what i mean. Doesn't tie in with the other info you have posted tho when running on choke. Sorry, not a mechanic but only passing on some experiences and basic knowledge.
 
maybe a shot in the dark but are inlet manifold boots and exhaust heat riser gaskets airtight?
 
alright again, its the guy who posted the long reach plug thing. iv just been thinking, if the plugs dont do the trick try plugging off the the hole on the butterfly valve in the carb.

quote from http://www.vw-resource.com/tune_up.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"The carburetor and distributor are the proper match (e.g. 34-PICT/3 carburetor with the SVDA distributor);

(Or, if you are running an 009 centrifugal advance distributor with a 34-PICT/3 carburetor, the carburetor is properly
modified for use with the 009 distributor (larger main jet, hole in the butterfly valve plugged, etc.). This is a stop-
gap solution to the incompatibility problem between the 34-PICT/3 carburetor and the 009 distributor. This
problem will be discussed further in the following pages.)"

let us know how you get on with it.
all the best, chicargo
 
Cheers for that chicargo...running loads better with the long reach plugs in..owe ya a beer.. :lol: :lol: ps ya joined early bay same day as me..just noticed..Thanks j
 
jay&kerry said:
Cheers for that chicargo...running loads better with the long reach plugs in..owe ya a beer.. :lol: :lol: ps ya joined early bay same day as me..just noticed..Thanks j

no worries j, just really pleased you got it sorted now, i know how frustrating it is when your ride dont run right. i wonder how many people are out there running with the same problem and like me and you try changing carbs and dizzys thinking thats the problem ?.
all the best mate ;) , chicargo
 
Sorry for the hijack chicargo, but whats the advantage/use of long reach plugs ?? or are they for a specific cylinder head ?

Sorry if this is a dumb ass question but had a few running problems myself 1600t/p and the heads are about 12 months old from new ?
just got the standard bosch jobbies in there at the moment ? just curious thats all :)
 
bac2ba6 said:
Sorry for the hijack chicargo, but whats the advantage/use of long reach plugs ?? or are they for a specific cylinder head ?

Sorry if this is a dumb ass question but had a few running problems myself 1600t/p and the heads are about 12 months old from new ?
just got the standard bosch jobbies in there at the moment ? just curious thats all :)

hi there bac2ba6. no my friend, not a dumb question, i'm no expert but as far as i can make out its to do with the difference in design between the old style tp head and the newer mexican/brizilian heads, mainly that on the old tp heads the depth of the thread where the spark plug screws in is 14mm ? and the newer mexican/brazilian tp heads thread depth is 19mm ?, so if you have bosch w8ac short reach (14mm)plugs in a mexican/brizilian (19mm thread) tp head the spark plug would be 5mm from where it needs to be.
100209_124736.jpg


just as a word of caution i would suggest that if your putting the long reach plugs in, before you start your engine, turn it over by hand just to make sure the long reach plugs dont hit the top of the pistons.
all the best, chicargo
 
Ahh i see ! learn something new everyday :) well the heads were from GSF so will have to try and see if theres anything on them to suggest the mexican ones ?

defiantly have the w8ac plugs in there at the moment so wondering if thiscould be the cause of a few running issues ive had for a while ?

dont suppose you know the code for the longer reach ones ?
 

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