Inlet Manifolds

[Cali_bay]

Whilst giving my engine a service I noticed that the carb was a 30 Pict and the engine is a twin port. Having a read around a few sources I believe that I should have a 34 Pict instead? I managed to source one of these at Stoner along with the correct manifold (i.e. larger flange).

Here lies my problem. When trying to install the new upper manifold I found that the two inlet manifolds had a smaller bore (32mm ish) and the new horizontal tube is 35mm. The manifolds have the following part numbers 113.129.709 G and 113.129.710 E).

Do I need to get larger manifolds, if so what part numbers or can I modify the bores of the ones I have to fit the 35mm tube?

I have looked at VW heritage and they only list one type?

Thanks.

 

[froggy]

Not sure but if i remember correctly the rubber boots between the carb manifold and the head manifolds are stepped (i.e small 1 side and larger the other) so it should fit easily enough.
I would change the rubber boots anyway whilst your swapping over the carb manifolds

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

Sorry to hijack the thread, but i am gonna be changing inlet manifold soon on my TP, do you know if the manifold can be changed without removing the alternator? I was hoping to leave the TP end tubes bolted to the head, and just undo the rubber boots and preheat pipes, take off the carb, and lift it out - is this possible do you know??

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[Cali_bay]

Not sure but if i remember correctly the rubber boots between the carb manifold and the head manifolds are stepped (i.e small 1 side and larger the other) so it should fit easily enough.
I would change the rubber boots anyway whilst your swapping over the carb manifolds

Thanks Simon, I have ordered some boots as the one on there were a little cracked. The problem I had with the manifold on the RH side is that the 35mm horizontal tube would not fit into the bore. Managed to get a colleague to machine the hole to the same diameter as the LH side. So this now fits . Just have to put the dam thing back together now.

Hi!

Sorry to hijack the thread, but i am gonna be changing inlet manifold soon on my TP, do you know if the manifold can be changed without removing the alternator? I was hoping to leave the TP end tubes bolted to the head, and just undo the rubber boots and preheat pipes, take off the carb, and lift it out - is this possible do you know??

Cheers!

Alistair

Alistair,

I was hoping the same, but the horizontal tube fits inside the two manifold pieces, so you would need to at the least loosen one to get it out. I found eventually a way to wiggle the old tubework off, but can't for the life of me get the 35mm one with the 34 Pict mounting to go past the generator bracket. So now have loosened all that off ready to take it all off. Got fed up at this point and will leave it till tomorrow.

Sometimes you just wish you hadn't started a job :roll:

 

[aogrady]

Alistair,

I was hoping the same, but the horizontal tube fits inside the two manifold pieces, so you would need to at the least loosen one to get it out. I found eventually a way to wiggle the old tubework off, but can't for the life of me get the 35mm one with the 34 Pict mounting to go past the generator bracket. So now have loosened all that off ready to take it all off. Got fed up at this point and will leave it till tomorrow.

Sometimes you just wish you hadn't started a job :roll:

Hi!

That's a bummer aint it?! I only need to take my manifold off as my LHS pre heat pipe is rusted through, i have also some new pre heat pipes, but i assume they aren't a push fit into the manifold. I have a replacement manifold too.
Seems a right pain to have to do all this just cos of a rusty pre heat pipe! Wonder if a copper pipe could be fashioned to fit as a temp measure?

Good luck with yours, looking forward to see how you tackle it all!

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[froggy]

That's a bummer aint it?! I only need to take my manifold off as my LHS pre heat pipe is rusted through, i have also some new pre heat pipes, but i assume they aren't a push fit into the manifold. I have a replacement manifold too.
Seems a right pain to have to do all this just cos of a rusty pre heat pipe! Wonder if a copper pipe could be fashioned to fit as a temp measure?

The pre-heat pipes are just a push fit (with a little loctite to help seal them) but because of the constant heating and cooloing (plus all the crap) they are usually solid and need cutting off and drilling out.

 

[aogrady]

The pre-heat pipes are just a push fit (with a little loctite to help seal them) but because of the constant heating and cooloing (plus all the crap) they are usually solid and need cutting off and drilling out.

Hi!

Do you think they may be drilled out in situ? Or is that destined to fail from the outset?

Sound like changing the pipes may be easier than trying to change the manifold?

Cheers!

Alistair

 

[cyberdyne systems]

Sounds like you have 1300tp end castings, but have found a way round to getting them to work! If you have a servo make sure the pipe is in tact as I had the slightest split and could not set the carb up properly till I discovered it.

As for as removing the manifold, you need to remove the alternator, it can be done in situ, I did mine by removing the fan but you need a big socket to do so, probably easier to remove engine from the bay and take the shroud off.

 

[Cali_bay]

Sounds like you have 1300tp end castings, but have found a way round to getting them to work! If you have a servo make sure the pipe is in tact as I had the slightest split and could not set the carb up properly till I discovered it.

As for as removing the manifold, you need to remove the alternator, it can be done in situ, I did mine by removing the fan but you need a big socket to do so, probably easier to remove engine from the bay and take the shroud off.

I think your right about the 1300 manifold, but the machining work sorted it.



Well I got it all fitted. needed to take off the fan support to get the manifold in. Then just a case of reassembling all the bits and fitting lots of new gaskets.

The manifold does have a servo pipe, but I have not servo on the bus so this is blocked off.

Fitted new plugs and leads and then turned it over and is started, but ran a little lumpy till is warmed up. I then set the timing and mixture as per Bently's bible and she is purring like a kitten at tick over and revs well. I have not taken her out for a spin yet. Its currently got a 009 dizzy on it, but I have a vac one to install as I believe that the 34 runs better with one.

I did however find that I have not got a thermostat on the engine or cooling flaps in the fan housing :shock: :shock: , so will need to source some more bits. May pop down to Bristol VF to see if I can get these parts.

On the whole though, chuffed its now all together.

 

[cyberdyne systems]

Your right on the 34 needing the vac dizzy, it just works so much better with one.

Snap on the cooling flaps and thermostat, I have no idea why people remove them, probably from bogus advice about the engine running cooler with out or they might jam shut! Anyhow its a good feeling to get the engine working right (back to how it should have been)