Iron x for body work

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CornishSilver

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Just wondering if anyone uses this and wether or not it ok for 40year old paint? Until now I've alway used a light rub with t cut followed by collonite double coat. Also I'm using a rust converter on any bits where the paint has gone, that turns the rust area black, then followed by a wax. What are you using?
 
Not got 40 year old paint on my bus, but have used iron x equivalents.
What's your reason for wanting to use Iron x? It's primary use is for wheels to remove the iron particles that embed into the coating from brake discs/pads.

I only ever use fall out removers on the lowest parts of the bodywork, as the chance of having iron particles on the roof etc. Is highly unlikely.

My experience with the equivalents would say that it would be OK but will probably turn the areas you have coated in the rust converter a cloudy white.


I think you would gain more by using a clay bar on all of the paint, and changing to more modern compound(polish) like Meguiars Ultimate Compound (others are available​, it's just the first thing that's come to mind)

T-CUT is most likely to be leaving micro-scratches post polishing as it is a very harsh abrasive, which will be dulling your paint somewhat.

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rlepecha said:
Not got 40 year old paint on my bus, but have used iron x equivalents.
What's your reason for wanting to use Iron x? It's primary use is for wheels to remove the iron particles that embed into the coating from brake discs/pads.

I only ever use fall out removers on the lowest parts of the bodywork, as the chance of having iron particles on the roof etc. Is highly unlikely.

My experience with the equivalents would say that it would be OK but will probably turn the areas you have coated in the rust converter a cloudy white.


I think you would gain more by using a clay bar on all of the paint, and changing to more modern compound(polish) like Meguiars Ultimate Compound (others are available​, it's just the first thing that's come to mind)

T-CUT is most likely to be leaving micro-scratches post polishing as it is a very harsh abrasive, which will be dulling your paint somewhat.

Sent from my Swift 2 using Tapatalk
Well my paint is O/G with a few areas that has rust spots appearing. They are only tiny spots and on areas where the paint has been compromised. I have a largish area of surface rust on the roof that's only visible when the roof is popped to. I know that the PO used to light tcut it and anchor wax it once a year to keep it as is.
 
Agree wholeheartedly with what rlepecha has said above. T Cut is very abrasive, so if you're trying to preserve, rather than remove paint, I would stop using it. A modern polish will do a similar job to T Cut, but is much more controlled.

What effects are you trying to achieve?

If it is a patina preservation exercise, I would probably not be too fussed with the polishing stage, and would instead concentrate on keeping a good layer of wax topped up on it regularly. Polishing is more regularly used in combination with claying to get a mirror-like finish, and then sealed in with wax. If your paintwork was more perfect like a modern car, then this is a great process for removing swirl marks and small imperfections. For a bus with old paint and wearing years of battle scars, you may not notice much difference by claying and polishing, but every time you do it, you'll be rubbing ever closer to the primer layer, which, as you say, you're already starting to see. Compared to a modern wax, Ankor wax is a primitive wax with positives and negatives. It is easy to put on a thick, protective layer that is hard-wearing, but it is hard work to buff off (if you don't want to leave a brown layer of it on your van) and everything sticks to it in the summer when it'll go tacky. I have a big container of it, but tend to use it in areas such as underneath rubber seals or trim where water might sit. Also, it's good for dabbing on 'rusty patina' but I personally wouldn't cover entire panels with it for the reasons above.


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Yeah its more of patina preservation Mosely that I'm after. At some point in its future it will have a upside down, inside out full on strip down and straighten up. Being realistic I love the way it looks right now, and I want to preserve what I have for a good 5 years without getting any degradation that is going to cost me more when restoring it back to mint condition. To be honest though if after the 5 years (which is when I could afford to do it to the spec id want) if its preserved well and looks like it does now I'm not sure I could bring myself to paint and straighten it up anyhow. So just carry on with this then eh unless theres something better?


 
Yep, keep chucking the wax on and it'll keep it nicely protected.


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