Leisure System & 240V hookup build

[lard]

Hi Larry, been following this thread as i am about to install a leisure battery set up, nothing too complicated, no 240v. My question if you,or anyone, can help; on the first diagram the yellow wire from the relay to the ignition, where doers this fit to? On the instructions that came with my kit, my understanding is that this connects to the alternator. I know you you are going through alternator/regulator issues at the moment, i have an alternator with an internal regulator. Is it ok to connect this wire (your yellow one) to the, in my case, green wire at the alternator or does it have to physically run to the ignition somewhere? I hope this makes sense. If so, can i simply piggy back it to this spade connection at the alternator?

ta Al

Hi,

Sounds correct to me - this is a relay type split charge and requires a live that's only on when the alternator is running to power up the relay (any old ignition switched live would cause the leisure battery to charge when engine not running and/or cranking) - if you have the internal regulator then it's just a single spade connector on the alternator as you say, think this connection is 0V when the ignition is switched on (and the generator light comes on) and is then 12-14V when alternator is working which will power up the relay and make the charging connection, stopping it from draining the battery at other times,

Others may have already connected theirs up and confirm but makes sense to me - it's not my diagram and I have the self switching relay which just detects when the engine is running (so above 13V going into the battery from the alternator) and switches it over so can't really comment on the relay type, you could double check if you have a voltmeter to test at what stage this spade connector gets a live connection, whether igintion on, off or only when engine running,

Hope that helps!

Larry

 

[matt-me]

Thanks Larry

Al

 

[user 4039]

I dont know how to post images up but if anyone is interested in my diagram pop to http://roxy270.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; it should be working and follow the link for Wiring Info.

 

[lard]

I dont know how to post images up but if anyone is interested in my diagram pop to http://www.roxy270.php.blueyonder.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; it should be working and follow the link for Wiring Info.

getting an error going to that page - can you check the link please? - or see here for image posting:

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=602

 

[user 4039]

my mistake it should read http://www.roxy270.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[lard]

Updated diagram to show how/where I installed it in the end - also added a switch or relay into the front on the diagram to switch essentials (light & 12V socket in front) to main battery if needed

As mentioned in another thread - also changed all my old bulbs to LED Festoon "warm" units - a straight swap and should draw a lot less current (also don't melt the interior light plastic ) - look completely stock when installed - if anyone is interested I'll find out where I got them from in the end

 

[user 4039]

Sorted this image posting stuff. Hope it helps.

 

[blogdroed]

OK stand by for a simpleton question

I've got a Leisure Battery and an 800W inverter - at this stage I am not looking to add a 240V hook-up, but I may at a later date ... do I need the 12V Fusebox or does my inverter suffice?
:?

ta,
Gary

 

[user 4039]

If Im correct the inverter will come plugged into a 12v socket? If so, then this should be fused and also the output from the inverter usually has a fuse of some sort, either thermal or 'cartridge' type.

 

[blogdroed]

This is the inverter I have:

I only intend to use the inverter as a stand alone for this weekend's camping before I knuckle down and build the whole hook up and charger set-up before the summer.

The inverter will be plugged up to a leisure battery which I will then charge back up manually after I get home again. I'm presuming that the fuse box in everybody's diagram is for the charger/hook up as the inverter is sold as a 'plug to battery and off you go' type affair ..?

 

[user 4039]

As you can see in my diagram there is a fuse to protect the whole of the leisure circuit just after the battery. You need to check the instructions with your inverter to see if it has an input protection fuse. If not I would recommend one.

 

[blogdroed]

Cheers roxy2

 

[creationblue]

Good work guys

Here are a few pics of my install, i put the inverter in the cupboard mainly so my Mrs wouldnt put the kettle into it :roll: :lol:

The RCD and MCB tucked in here...

Back of Zig unit

Front panel

Leisure Battery's usual place of rest, i did tidy the wires up after, honest

Just

 

[pgtips]

<<also added a switch or relay into the front on the diagram to switch essentials (light & 12V socket in front) to main battery if needed>>

what switch/relay did you use for this (where did you get it from)

Also it looks like you are running 12v always from the LB, so I guess you are charging the LB when hooked up but if your draw was greater than the charge getting in then wouldn't that flatten the LB eventually.

I am doing this myself and am looking at using a power supply to run 12v directly from the mains when hooked up AND charge the LB seperately. Only run LB 12v when not hooked up.

Great post though mate and thanks for getting this info up, i have been looking for something like this for an age, its really helped me.

Couple of Qs on wiring up if anyone can help.
trying to locate a switch (pref not a manual one) to auto sense input current, running on permanent 12v input unless there is a 240v input available in which case I want it to switch to using the 240 mains input only. if not auto sensing then what is the manual switch over equivalent?
(Does such a thing exist/is this possible without a mechanical switch.)
I am also looking for a reverse polarity switch that can auto sense reverse polarity and reverse internally to match it up i.e if you go abroad you can get sites that have reverse polarity supply. You could have another hookup wired to accomodate this but I think this can be done electronically, some top end caravan boards have it, but I don't know what the electronic thing would be to wire in. Not looking for a reverse polarity 'checker' but something that would switch over to accomodate it if I ever came across it. again though, does such a thing exist?

cheers all and have a great bank holiday.
Kevin

 

[user 4039]

Also it looks like you are running 12v always from the LB, so I guess you are charging the LB when hooked up but if your draw was greater than the charge getting in then wouldn't that flatten the LB eventually.

I only use the LB when there is no mains avaialble. When connected to mains the transformer supplies the leisure circuit with 12v and a seperate charger sorts the LB charge out.

Couple of Qs on wiring up if anyone can help.
trying to locate a switch (pref not a manual one) to auto sense input current, running on permanent 12v input unless there is a 240v input available in which case I want it to switch to using the 240 mains input only. if not auto sensing then what is the manual switch over equivalent?
(Does such a thing exist/is this possible without a mechanical switch.)

Sounds like a relay to me! Though a relay is classed technically as mechanical! Have a close look at my wiring diagram. If you are close to Gloucester come and have a look at my wiring in situ!

 

[pgtips]

<<also added a switch or relay into the front on the diagram to switch essentials (light & 12V socket in front) to main battery if needed>>

what switch/relay did you use for this (where did you get it from)

 

[user 4039]

<<also added a switch or relay into the front on the diagram to switch essentials (light & 12V socket in front) to main battery if needed>>

what switch/relay did you use for this (where did you get it from)

This wasnt me but I am guessing it would have been a single pole double throw type or SPDT. These are readily available from http://www.maplins.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2360" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , code JK27E. Simply have LB supply into 1 side, MB into the other and the output is decided by the postion of the switch. You could even use a switch with centre off position to disable the 12v output altogether. If you look at my diagram again and locate the dotted square named control panel, you can see such a switch in use, located between the two fuses at the bottom. This switch allows me to choose between LB, mains (stepped down to 12v) or centre off.

I think if you visit my website, http://www.roxy270.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; you may find a larger diagram.

 

[pgtips]

Hi,
yes I looked at yours, its another good (and bookmarked) diagram i am using.

It was difficult to get the link to open, those flowers following the mouse maybe interfering but in the end I manually typed in the location of the image and got to it.

On your fuse board bank, nos 1 to 8, you have internal lighting at no 1, so I assume its a 12v fuse bank, so at no 5 is that 12v sockets. i ask because I couldn't find mains 240v sockets in your diagram and the only reason i ask that is becuase I can't decide if I want or need any in my build.

I appreciate they aren't that necessary and a inverter would actually do the job of providing one if required, most of my kit, if not all, will be 12v, so i am back to thinking about a power supply that takes 240v down to 12v (been round in circles on that one for ages now) and just running 12v internally.

On the Q of a 240 to 12 inverter, been reading around on these. It seems pure sine wave ones are the ideal option, but are they really that necessary?, The price differential between 'normal' inverter and pure is huge.

The only reason i would need one is for a battery charger wired in, and maybe when I'm hooked up using a power supply to plug in and convert mains ac to 12v dc.

And then how do i switch between LB powered electrics or mains hookup supplied ones, would that switch be suitable?

any thoughts from anyone who is doing it for real would be appreciated because I can't get my head round how I want to go with this. I imagine running 12v from my LB and when hooked up then run the same 12v circuit from the mains hookup using the mains to recharge my LB.

Cheers,
Kev

 

[user 4039]

Hi,
yes I looked at yours, its another good (and bookmarked) diagram i am using.

A) On your fuse board bank, nos 1 to 8, you have internal lighting at no 1, so I assume its a 12v fuse bank, so at no 5 is that 12v sockets. i ask because I couldn't find mains 240v sockets in your diagram and the only reason i ask that is becuase I can't decide if I want or need any in my build.

B) I appreciate they aren't that necessary and a inverter would actually do the job of providing one if required, most of my kit, if not all, will be 12v, so i am back to thinking about a power supply that takes 240v down to 12v (been round in circles on that one for ages now) and just running 12v internally.

On the Q of a 240 to 12 inverter, been reading around on these. It seems pure sine wave ones are the ideal option, but are they really that necessary?, The price differential between 'normal' inverter and pure is huge.

Answers:
A) Yes fuse 5 is 12 volt sockets. all fuses on that board are 12V. The mains sockets are indicated as 'E' on the right (there is a key at the bottom left)

B) I have instructions to convert a PC power supply to be able to use it as a step down transformer. It is a very stable output bang on 12V. I have made two of these for myself in the last 6 years (1 for each of the vans we have owned /own) and have made several for friends with no complaints or faults.

Hope this helps you out. If you pm your email address maybe some photos would help.

Where are you located?

 

[pgtips]

Thanks,

Your diagram makes sense, I ave looked at the step down. The hiccup seems to be how I isolate the LB 12v when I connect to the mains (i.e use the step down mains 240 to 12v power and not the LBy ) thats the bit that's difficult to overcome, i.e a current sensor switch or a manual switch that I can switch between either input/output. I was wondering if the previous switch mentioned would do the job.

cheers,
Kev.