Looking for a fix for Westfalia pop-top

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Magiceddie88

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I am wondering if anyone has got a fix for this, misallingment.

Not sure if snow loads have caused this or perhaps something else like a warped top? My top on the rear where the luggage compartment and the pop top meet seem to be mis-allinged (see picture). Or am I just over worring and need to fit the weather strip to the top and let it make the leap to and fro.

6151612270_40dc5cfb50.jpg


6151054417_5997b6115c.jpg


The spacing as far as I know on the front is decent still sits fine it hasn't risen or slid either way.

Anyone else have this issue before? And by chance figured out what might be the cause and or fix for this?

Thanks,
Eddie
 
Looks ok to me - put the weather strip on and see?
If you need to, there is some forwards/backwards adjustment on the hinge/tintop fixings (slots in the hinges), but that also depends on how it's fitting across the front above the windscreen.
 
Is the rear rack fitted as stock? Ie. Is the rack a bit to high?

I thought mine was saggy but after a friend fitted new wood internally the whole thing was stiffer and fitted better.
 
I had this same issue on mine and couldn't work out why so I fitted an aluminium strip to the roofrack section which the roof sits on. I had to curve it with sone notching but works a treat. It is just a right angled piece that is fixed with self tappers.

If i get the bus out this weekend I'll take a pic.
 
Hi,

I'd say the rear rack is fitted to high, mine sits flush - at least it did after i refitted and replaced and adjusted all the fixings. You can use beer making demijohn bungs with the whole in the middle, cut down to size are a ideal replacement, this is what i used on my bus to replace the knackered og ones, as the screws that fit this lot in, tend to leak into the interior, like mine did at V fest a few years back, drip drip drip soggy pillows.....

I may have covered this topic on my thread, cant remember it was a few years back. I used sealer down the inside of the bung, sealer on the roof where the bungs fits, and finally seal the top where the screw is to make sure water doesn't find it's way inside again.

cheers,

Alistair
 
I used demi john bungs after you idea Alistair, couple of pounds from the local health food shop. I welded bolts over the holes to go through the bung and roof rack, it don't leak now!
 
Sorry, I didn't end up taking a photo due to persistent rain. I would try adjustment first as everyone else has stated. If I do get the bus out in some dry weather I'll try to take a pic.
Goodlyck.
 
;) thanks for this! Its the next thing to be gone through and at the last meet i found my pillow damp- think its all related to me throwing a spare tire up top...now I'm connecting the dots thanks all and i really look forward to getting mine leak proof'd.
 
faux said:
Sorry, I didn't end up taking a photo due to persistent rain. I would try adjustment first as everyone else has stated. If I do get the bus out in some dry weather I'll try to take a pic.
Goodlyck.

Surely not only a dry weather bus Jon.................get it out and use it fella. ;)
 
Magiceddie88 said:
;) thanks for this! Its the next thing to be gone through and at the last meet i found my pillow damp- think its all related to me throwing a spare tire up top...now I'm connecting the dots thanks all and i really look forward to getting mine leak proof'd.

Hi,

Aside from the rubber fixings, you may well have to replace the screws fixing the bungs on, they normally rust out, or you have various wood screws either broken off or rusted in, new screws fitted on mine couldn't find any stainless at the time.

Alistair
 
Pulled the top off and cleaned the roof. Im looking into new rubber doughnuts and stainless screws, and replacing the old spacers too while on the subject my fiberglass top is down to the fibers, should I get it gel coated or would a couple coats of Emron (an aircraft paint) work fine.

Eddie
 

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