More lowering questions

[currylager]

I've started to do a bit of research into lowering my bus and am trying to find the most straightforward cost effective way to do this. I saw some good info on samba about fitting avis adjusters, but is it really neccessary to actually remove the front beam to fit the adjusters??. I know it would be easier to do the mods on a bench but dont fancy taking the beam off due to the fear of siezed bolts etc. Would it be possible to cut the slots and weld the adjuster plates with the beam in situ?? :?

 

[Justin & Muttley]

Been looking into this also - for me, dropped spindles is the way to go!

 

[currylager]

ive thought about dropped spindles but they are costly to convert? and your bus will be off the road while you wait for them to be modified i think??, i was also concerned about the 5mm offset on the spindles as well when fitting alloys??, but they are still viable. I wouldnt mind having a go at fitting the avis adjusters but obviously with the camping season under way i wouldnt want to take the risk of having the bus off the road for a long time if i hit complications, after all this is a vw and nothing is usually straightforward. :roll:

 

[Justin & Muttley]

I think a lot of the companies that offer dropped spindles allow you to pay a surcharge rather than handing over your spindles - you get this money back when you return your (standard) spindles.
Another option would be to buy another beam, fit adjusters to that, then swap it over and sell your original beam to recoup your money - this way the bus wouldn't be off the road for long!
Let us know what you choose to do...

 

[Airtime]

Last saturday I removed the front beam to fit these:

They might be fitted without removing the beam, but the main problem is that you have to drill out the 3 centers that keep the centerblock in place. That can't be done without removing the beam. And I also doubt that the slots can be cut with the beam in place. :?

Removing the beam wasn't very hard/difficult. Spraying with WD40 and the use of air tools makes life easier and shortens the working time too, however. The biggest problem we had was separating the ball joints. But with a big heavy hammer and a ball joint fork they did come off. :twisted: I decided to replace all 4 ball joints now that they're allready separated, btw. :wink:

Next wednesday we'll finish the beam and repaint it and next saturday we'll place it back where it belongs. 8)

Ow, and I bought this set of avis adjusters for 100 euro (without shipping). Interested? PM me.

 

[currylager]

I believe it is possible to loosen the beam centre block with the beam in situ by using length of steel bar/pipe and giving it a good thrash with a hammer, so if you could get enough acess to cut the slots in the beam for the adjusters it might be possible to modify the beam in situ. I spent most of this weekend fitting 1641 pistons and barrels to an engine and then swopping over engines on the bus, so spent most of the weekend covered in oil on my drive. Think i need a bit of a rest before i attempt the beam job. I'm hoping to consider all the options before taking the plunge. Well done for getting so far with modifying your beam.

 

[slammedkustom]

I believe it is possible to loosen the beam centre block with the beam in situ by using length of steel bar/pipe and giving it a good thrash with a hammer, .

not a good idea,Its bloody hard work and the amount of force needed would knock your bus off its axle stands, very dangerous.
its really not that hard to remove the beam, also you can check the condition better while its off :wink:

 

[Scampi]

Personally, I would save and get the spindles.

That is the way to do it even though it may be a bit more pricy!

 

[currylager]

Thanks for all the advice guys, still undecided but will let you know which way i go, could be really lazy and cut and turn the xxxxard, my beam is not perfect and has a tiny bit of welding at the base, and wont last forever but is probably not ethically correct .

 

[Justin & Muttley]

Cut and turn is the easy way (as long as your welding is up to scratch) but gives no opportunity for adjustment later - you need to get it just right first time!

 

[TexasAirCooler]

I believe it is possible to loosen the beam centre block with the beam in situ by using length of steel bar/pipe and giving it a good thrash with a hammer, .

not a good idea,Its bloody hard work and the amount of force needed would knock your bus off its axle stands, very dangerous.
its really not that hard to remove the beam, also you can check the condition better while its off :wink:

Anytime a hammer is involved it can't be to good. :shock:

 

[chris7ian]

Last saturday I removed the front beam to fit these:

They might be fitted without removing the beam, but the main problem is that you have to drill out the 3 centers that keep the centerblock in place. That can't be done without removing the beam. And I also doubt that the slots can be cut with the beam in place. :?

I had this style of adjuster fitted at Type 2/3 Detectives a while ago - They didn't remove the beam, but had the bus supported on a hydraulic lift

 

[currylager]

I'd love to know how those guys pulled that one off, its all tricks of the trade. i often visit a lot of machine shops in my Job and bet it wouldnt be that hard to design my own adjuster and talk nicely to one of the machinists and devise an easi fit option maybe, dont just count sheep at night you know!!

 

[Airtime]

Finished the axle yesterday. Was a lot of work, but not difficult to do. I'll post some pics in my Amescador thread later today.

 

[chris7ian]

I'd love to know how those guys pulled that one off, its all tricks of the trade. i often visit a lot of machine shops in my Job and bet it wouldnt be that hard to design my own adjuster and talk nicely to one of the machinists and devise an easi fit option maybe, dont just count sheep at night you know!!

oh, and it took two guys four hours to complete the lowering, front and back

 

[currylager]

Bloody hell chris7ian rub it in why dont ya!! :x