No fuel gauge..

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dt100

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First of all, I've finally got an mot on my van, it's off it's sorn (nice feeling getting the free tax disc!!)...... thank you to all that have helped in my many (daft) technical questions..... but here goes with one more.....

.... The only thing on my van which I've not managed to correct is the non working fuel gauge. I've tested the gauge, it's ok so actually must be the sender. I haven't the heart (yet) to tell my wife that the engine needs to come out to get at it, as she is as eagre (as me) to start to use the van....so I've decided to just live without a fuel gauge until there is other more pressing reason to pull the engine.

..... so, I know this is going to be a 'it depends on....' question, but from a standard 1600 how many miles should I consider safe(ish) between fill ups?...... roughly what are others getting from a tank?
 
200 miles is a very safe mark between fill ups,

you should get 250 to 300 without an issue.
 
Just in case - heres Speedy Jims guide to checking fuel gauges - http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and heres how you can access the sender without removing the engine - http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/access/access.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
I've got a new sender to fit tonight. Going to try the gauge too.
What fuse is it for the gauge?
 
Alex - thanks, great answer, will be filling up every 200 for a while...

Trikkie - two great links, thank you. I like the method of having an access panel, good article..... other than you have to remove the fuel tank first to cut the hole, which in itself is an engine out job!!! Made me chuckle!!... though in all seriousness may be something I add next winter, if I get by with remembering 'every 200' until then!

Thanks guys,
 
Theres no need to remove the fuel tank to cut the hole, I've just done mine no problems.
I used a air gun with a chisel attachement but I have seen it done with a angle grinder with a stainless steel disc. There is loads of space between top of tank and the panel so no risk of cutting into tank. Hope this helps.
 
I made an access hatch on mine too. Marked out a suitable sized hole, drilled on the line then cut around the rest with an air powered hack saw. Plus I left about an inch un cut at the back so its got a hinge so to speak. I gaffer tape it down and with the bed cushion in place no body knows any different ;-)
 
As has been posted - you dont have to remove the fuel tank to make the access trap.

If you have to drill holes just use a short drill bit - or alternatively you can put some tube over the drill bit so the tip protrudes only a little.
 

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