Raising the suspension on adjusters

[Moseley]

It’s hard to tell exactly from your photos, but those two adjusters look to be set a long way from each other, so as you’ve suggested, your top spring is doing a lot of the work. Someone has handily welded the top adjuster by the looks of it, so your options are going to be limited. If you set the bottom adjuster so that it is at a more ‘factory angle’ when compared to the top, you will probably find it has lifted the front end considerably, which might not be what you want.

Each to their own, but if that was mine, I’d probably just go for the option of buying a new beam. It will give you all the adjustment and tweaking you’re after, and peace of mind that you’re not rolling around on something that could be an accident waiting to happen.

 

[giraffeinbath]

As others have said to raise it you really need to dismantle at least the bottom ball joints to take the tension off the leaves and remove the top damper bolt as that will stop it moving as well, adjust and then refit. If you are looking at gaining 2cm I'd be inclined to move it 2 notches (paint pen on the side of the adjuster block before moving so you know where you started from)
The adjusters should be set in different positions to ensure the leaves are preloaded, if they are set to the same position the beam will be in 'free run' mode with no tension on the leaves, we set them so the top adjuster is 3 notches higher than the bottom one when counting from the bottom of the adjuster block that's welded to the beam.

There are lots of variables though.
- stock beam with adjusters top and bottom
- aftermarket narrowed beam
- flipped or stock spindles

Out of curiosity, what would the be affect if you deviated from the 3 notch principle?

Would 4 notches different effectivley stiffen the suspension and 2 soften it, or is it something simply not to be played with?

 

[sparkywig]

Out of curiosity, what would the be affect if you deviated from the 3 notch principle?

Would 4 notches different effectivley stiffen the suspension and 2 soften it, or is it something simply not to be played with?

Mine's about 4 or 5 notches different, it just adds pre-load to the suspension.

 

[Clem]

If the top adjuster is fixed you could just buy another adjuster* and fit the outer hardware (or just buy a replacement nut and grub screw from a fittings place) to the lower adjuster and reset it. It’s a bit old hat now but it was quite common to lower buses by just one tube until a few years ago.

I guess if you are grinding the lower adjuster away though you must be on dropped spindles also?

*im sure I have a spare one

 

[milfredo]

I think they are dropped spindles and also the ball joints are reversed. I’m going to do some phoning about tomorrow to see if I can find someone to help me with a new beam and sort it out.

 

[milfredo]

I had to put it back together as it was and take stock from there

 

[Clem]

If you are on flipped spindles you don’t need much lowering via the adjuster for regular use. I’d readjust that bottom tube and leave it. Unless you ‘want’ a new beam I think it’s overkill.

 

[milfredo]

I like this approach! I need the van for June so I’m nervous!

My ball joint splitter was too small so I procrastinated too much. How would one separate the lower joints? I don’t mind buying a tool if it works well even for one job.

 

[Clem]

As I recall , on mine the preload tension was so much that they popped out themselves when I undid them.
Usually you need a large fork separator that will damage the boots.

 

[Graham L]

Can you get a picture of your spindles from the back of the wheel, that will give a better understanding of what you are running but it looks like an original beam that someone has welded adjusters into and if you are running flipped spindles with upside down balljoints you will get a lot more travel, we stopped fitting these as the only way to control the ride was to fit coilovers and then it was an issue as to where your 'suspension' was, was it the leaves in the beam or the coilovers.

happy to help out if we can, I think we've seen all manner of lowering over the last 15 years

 

[Graham L]

I like this approach! I need the van for June so I’m nervous!

My ball joint splitter was too small so I procrastinated too much. How would one separate the lower joints? I don’t mind buying a tool if it works well even for one job.

As Clem mentioned, as your top adjuster is at full height, you may find the bottom ball joints pop off as its actually being forced the wrong way at the moment, the top adjuster is meant to be higher on the beam than the bottom one currently the arms are working against each other and under tension.

If not with the wheels hanging undo the 27mm ball joint nut and with a thump with a big hammer either side of the arm by the balljoint you can 'break' the seal. Its usually easier to undo the top one first as that releases the tension although at the moment looking at how your adjusters are set its hard to tell whats happening.

If you plan to undo the bottom adjuster nut it should be a 22mm, do it with weight on the beam ie with it sat on its wheels as once its undone its going to go with a BANG as the arms try to release the tension on the leaves so be very careful, it can be quite scary when they let go.

With regards to the adjuster hardware theres lots of different types out there so don't assume they are all the same so if looking for a new adjuster block you need to compare the teeth etc, the clamping bolt down the middle of the adjuster block is an M14 x 1.5 thread with a tapered seat to hold the leaves in place. We have a box of assorted adjuster blocks if you need any help.

 

[milfredo]

Thanks Graham, really appreciated. All notes taken. Living in perpetual fear until there is time and money to replace. Until then, make it better but live in fear.