Rear stub axle question....

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

devonhelpus

Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Hi I am new here so go easy....

I seem to have spent hours searching and searching reading etc.. my brain hurts my eyeballs are sore...

So ask the people who know!

I have a 69 devon in boxes at the moment, a few bits are missing or needing replacement including the 205 combined hub/rear drums...
But as the front end already has been converted to 112pcd and disc's with a red9design wishbone....I have been thinking about the whole rear disc diy conversion thing, using off the shelf golf or passat or merc disc's calipers etc and having laser cut caliper brakets cut etc....

BUT... before all that fun, from what i understand my early rear stub axles, are the same diameter, have the same splines etc but are 24mm longer than the later bays, with its seperate rear 112 pcd hub.

Q:I do not know it the splines are long enough on my longer axles to allow the later small hub to slide fully down seat onto the bearing/seal etc and then have a spacer made between the outside face of the hub and the 46mm hub nut to take up the 24mm play?
Or
would i have to put a hardened spacer between the bearing and the inner face of the new small 112pcd hub?
Or...buy the shorter axles from a late bay!@?!/!

Any helpfull advice?

PS what money do you think I could I get for the whole orginal VW front beam with 205pcd drums etc and steering box etc?
 
Better to use the axles that go with the hubs you intend to use rather than botch something with spacers. IMO.

I assume you want the rear disks for the look, in my experience you won't see any benefit in road use and the handbrake function is often inferior.
 
Hi Thanks for the reply
Firstly, I don't have ANY of the orginal rear brake parts not even the 205 hub/drums (The previous owner binned them all)
I only have the early longer stub axles and their bearing/carrier housing assembly.
I have an amazing front end with 112 pcd .....

So I will have to source either ALL the orginal setup and have 205pcs at the rear....
or move to 112pcd all round (makes sense)
This gives me the option buy ALL the 112pcd hub & drum related stuff, or move to disc....(I have to buy either way)

So breaker stuff for golf etc etc calipers are cost effective!
Also keeping my longer stub axles is cost effective IF and only IF they can be safely made to fit the later hubs with I AM Guessing spacers (24mm at max?) but without all the parts here to try / measure I am guessing!
Hence my question, to those whom have pulled these things apart often, and know if i am overlooking something on how the hub mates with the spline and can correctly clamp between the bearing and the 46mm hub nut....

Any thoughts?
 
diy rear disc is not as easy as it sounds . alot depends on wheel choice /offsets etc ...i had to shorten my late stub axles to alow centre cap fixing ..... caliper brackets are usually welded on as there are little in the way of fixings . little things like handbrake cables need to be specially made etc ....and like said before they work no better than stock late drums ...
 
Hi devonhelpus,
I don't know the answer to Q1 but I know the bearings are different between to 2 stub axles so this may guide you.

I think if it were me I would look at this thread http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21827" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Mycha has built a few variations of rear disc setups all basses on the 112hub assembly.
You would get good money for 205 hubs and stubs if they are all in tolerance, something to check as they do wear. Mega bug want over £300 for hubs and stubs.

Re your beam, a standard beam that is 100% rot free is worth around £200 I would have said and your spindles around the same maybe £300

Steering box depends on condition, LHD boxes can go for around £300 but I'm not sure what the demand for RHD boxes is like.
 
Hi

I understand this wont be a five minute nut and bolt job, IF the splines are long enough to seat the hub.
Measuring , CAD drawing, Laser cutting welding milling etc. (All Sounds fun to me!) and finding hoses / cables and making sure the wheels dont foul anything!

I also understand that the outer bearing is different on the later bay (moving to taper roller, a newer better bearing design) and it doesn't have the outer spacer between the drum and bearing (I believe this area which runs in the outer seal lip ,is now incorporated at the back of the later 112pcd hub?)

So once again, its a case of CAN it bolt tight?

Below quote from samba.com, showing Unsure!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=556325" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

------1968-1970 Rear Drum Brake OEM Conversion Parts

There has been conflicting post on this subject. Two have posted that they only changed the backing plate assembly, hub and the drums. They did not change the bearing housings and the stub axles. They reported that the axle nut did not run out of threads and it tightened up.
Others have posted that this will not work, that the stub axle is to long for the 71-79 brake assemblies.
Question: If you have done this what worked for you?

Basically the Bearing Housing and everything attached to it.
Bearing Housing: Question: What were the changes?
Backing Plate: Full Assembly shoes, cylinders, springs and hardware.
Axle Shaft- Stub Shaft: 71-79 short.
Inner Bearings: 68-91 the same.
Outer Bearings: 71-91 the same.
Seals: 68-91 the same.
Wheel Hub: 71-79 the same. 5/112 Narrow 5.
Brake Drum: 71-79 the same
Lug Nuts: 71-79 the same 14x1.5mm lug nuts
5x112 Narrow 5 Rims, tires and Hub caps:
 
If this is anything to go on, the splines are long enough....?
Wish I could be certain!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=425910" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Sell all the early stuff an buy late .....you know it will all fit together .or cad it all up .i went 944 so I'm 130 PCD but used late bay stuff ..what wheels are you fitting as it has a lot to do with offsets
 

Latest posts

Top