Rust prevention

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magoo

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Note sure which method to use.

At the moment I have untreated original paint underneath, but the inner wheel arches need attention as they have chips which are rusting.

Does anyone have photos of your chosen method?
 
Black wax or Zeibart on the underside.
Dinitrol or silver knight in the cavities.

If you must use waxoyl in the cavities then at least thin it so it sprays properly and flows allowing it to penetrate into seams. Using it hot will Not do the job since it cools immediately on contact and won't flow.
 
Can Dinitrol be used everywhere? I hear good things about it, but don't know what any of these products look like underneath.
Ideally I want paint and then clear protection over it or vice versa.
 
magoo said:
Can Dinitrol be used everywhere? I hear good things about it, but don't know what any of these products look like underneath.
Ideally I want paint and then clear protection over it or vice versa.

Cavity wax is not intended for use on the underside. The reasons should be obvious.
 
Trikky2 said:
Cavity wax is not intended for use on the underside. The reasons should be obvious.

It's ok I found their product range stating which Dinitrol products should be used and where.
 
Hi,

Take a look at my thread, about half way down...this is what was done to the entire underside...

http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11057&start=220" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had the old underseal scraped off where it was loose, followed by a rust converter, which was also sprayed into all the chassis and box sections, bellypans etc, which then turned any rust into a stable form, and then encapsulated it, then followed by further coats of a 2 part epoxy paint in black, which has encapsulated the rust converter, this was done on the external metal

All the box sections, cavity's, doors, engine lid, tailgate etc were then treated with a cavity wax (still have 10lts left over!)

I have since had a further treatment, as i wanted a stone chip type finish, colour matched to body colour underneath, and it's just being finished off now. Another 2 part treatment with hardener, tintable to what ever colour you want, mines is of course Pearle White. It's UPOL Raptor Truck Bed Liner, it's resiliant, adds some sound deadening, covers well, and of course is body colour, just mix, shake and spray. Saves waiting for stone chip to go off, then trying to get paint to stick to the evaporating solvents.... :roll:

I'll get some pictures and details up on my gallery thread over the next few days. ;)

Cheers,

Alistair
 
Trikky2 said:
Black wax or Zeibart on the underside.
Dinitrol or silver knight in the cavities.

If you must use waxoyl in the cavities then at least thin it so it sprays properly and flows allowing it to penetrate into seams. Using it hot will Not do the job since it cools immediately on contact and won't flow.

Good advice here. Dinitrol make some highly viscous products which creep into every crevise. Wax oil can be a tad thick straight out of the can.
 
How many square metres or litres roughly would cover the underneath if using one of the thin brown wax fluid type products?

You had 10 litres left over!
 
magoo said:
How many square metres or litres roughly would cover the underneath if using one of the thin brown wax fluid type products?

You had 10 litres left over!

I went overboard when i bought my Mil-Spec cavity wax, think i bought 20 ltrs, used 10lts (think it was 10) on all box sections and inner chassis rails etc....none of the wax was used externally.

Everything was done somewhat to the nth degree, you dont really need as much stuff as i have used, but i want it to last for a long as possible, so spent some time researching some of the best products to use, many other good brands are available, I feel the stuff i used worked well for me, and I am very happy with the results.

Your mileage may vary, as they say!

Cheers,

Alistair
 

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