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Thanks ProfessorWheeto, thats a really useful thread! I like how you put 'just' drill out all the spot welds... about 300 of them!?! Put me back in 2 minds again now - replacing the whole roof would be the ideal. I'll do some measuring to check the '73 roof is the same as the '68 - that might...

Thought of that one already ;)

Probably easier to keep neat too - thanks again :)

Thanks ronmidg - some really useful info I'm going to go for the stepped edge and overlap idea, but probably seam weld rather than plug to keep the corrosion out

The the bottom half and the chassis of the donor is shot, which is why I bought it for the roof and all the little bits and pieces (the '68 is just a shell - thats how we got it). We bought the donor van complete as it was far cheaper than collecting all the bits and pieces seperately I'm glad...

Thanks again Tofufi and stagger lee - really does help to have the benefit of experience! Went out earlier to count up how many spot welds are involved... got to a big number and gave up :shock: I was drawn to the filling section idea to start with, as its an easier job and avoids any issues...

Thanks for the info guys - I really do appreciate everything you have to offer I was kind of drawn to the drilling spot welds idea to keep it neat, though filling the hole seems a lot more straightforward (other than the concern of distortion). Perhaps the act of stepping the edge (for an...

Hi, I am planning the resto of a '68 over the autumn & winter months, which includes getting rid of that big hole in the roof... To set the scene... '68 shell - Big hole in roof (poptop long gone), but solid and rust free (gutters, etc are excellent condition) '73 Donor - Nice solid roof, in...

Just found this thread - looks like you told yourself the little lie that we all have to - It shouldn't take that long, have it on the road for the summer ;) Superb work, the van is looking fabulous - massive congrats, can't wait to see it finished! One question if you don't mind - when you...

Hi Mike, someone asked a similar question on another forum (I'll be good and not say which :P) the other day so I've just copied and pasted what I put below. Good luck :)

Superb stuff! An outstanding resto, and whilst it may have been a lot of work, its another fantastic bay saved from the scrap heap :) Cheers, looking forward to seeing it finished :)

Inspiring thread! You can learn so much from lookin through these awesome resto threads - I'm sure its a bit of hassle to keep posting the updates, but it is very much appreciated! Cheers welshbay - superb work, looking forward to seeing it finished! :)

Why thank you Justin & Muttley :) (another bump ;))

Now on eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150368965590&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Catch it while you can :)

Thanks for input so far :) Would ideally prefer to use '68 parts, but want to get it on the road as cheaply as I can, and worry about being authentic for the year another day. There's a lot more late bay parts around... and I happen to have some... :)

I have a full set of doors (cab, sliding, rear and engine) from a '73, will they fit onto a '68 shell? I get the impression that the rear hatch might be different, and the hinges are different on the engine lid, but is it later that the cab door hinges changed? Help! :?

Vintage 1950s Baby Belling Oven, v. good working condition 300x350x310mm - Would fit perfectly in your bus £80 collect from Derby Quote from http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.li...kingother.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Original brochure...

I know that the hole pattern changed from the early to the late bay (I read somewhere that the bottom holes went from 90 to 120mm away from the top), but has anyone modified a late beam to fit? I've been searching for a while and found this thread which suggests its do-able...