1600 engine questions

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Kaboosie

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Was wondering what to do with my 1600 engine. Twin port duel cabs, up CC to 1776 or above? Also want to keep heat exchanger on it. Want a engine that with cruise at 60mph and cope with the hills around Wales. Help would be appreciated thanks.
 
Hi

Thats a bit of a how long is a piece of string question, it depends on a lot of variables but to start:

What do you have currently?

How is it running?

What kind of Bus is yours?

Do you travel Solo or freighted up with a whole family and all their stuff?

Do you mainly do local B Road adventures or do you go out on the motorways and cover lots of miles?

Cheers

Alex
 
I know the question has many answers, read most of the feeds on here about engines. Some saying to go big and other saying there 1600 does the job. My engine runs okay, no end float. Just leaks oil a bit. Was thinking of spending about 2k on it. Be three of us traveling in it, mosty trips to Wales and local VW events.
 
The costs below are Retail, your best bet is to order during December as we have a 10% offer running.

I think your best option sub 2K is:

So if the engine is good, not using oil, no major end float you could go for:

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC1297401/empi-34-epc-carb-kit-t1-2-sp/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Carbs - £321.40

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC251816/vintage-speed-sports-exhaust-system-t2-68-79-std-tail-pipe/?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Exhaust - £398

Realsitically this is the best upgrades to your current set up.


Option 2:

To get yours rebuilt bigger will cost a fair chunk, if its good, keep it as a spare or sell it on. When rebuilding bigger you would need to replace alot of the tinware. You are best off keeping the singleport as a together spare or selling it on complete.

So to go bigger:

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/211100037/engine-ssp-all-new-1776-no-exchange-needed/?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Engine - £2999

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC129K1317/weber-twin-40-idf-carb-kit-t1-2/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Carbs - £827.20

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC251816/vintage-speed-sports-exhaust-system-t2-68-79-std-tail-pipe/?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Exhaust - £398

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC198998/black-tinware-kit-11-pieces-t-p-doghouse-with-air/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Tinware - £174.80

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC903901/alternator-conversion-kit-55amp-ssp-inc-belt-pulley/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Alternator Conversion Kit - £158.50

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/AC117308410/bugpack-cooler-fan-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

External Oil Filter Head and Cooler kit - £279

The above is not the entirity of what you will need but should be all the big ticket items to give you a very rough idea of cost. It does depend if your using any parts from your singleport or leaving it as a complete turnkey unit.



When looking at the costs of long block engines and comparing them do make sure you read about and examine all the specs as well as the price. We are not the cheapest long block available but I would argue we use the best quality parts for the money and therefore offer awesome value.



Hopefully this gives you some info and facts to have a think about.

Let me know if you need any further info.

Cheers

Alex
 
Cool. Thanks for you help. Also do you think it's worth changing heads to twin port?
 
Thanks. Was thinking of dual carbs mates. My engine running great just needs a tad more power.
 
I was in the same position a while back - good 1600 SP but needed a little more

things to consider if sticking with singleport (which I would if I were you) in my order of priority

get some head work done, singleport heads come with almost square inlets and opening them up will greatly improve them.

a 32/36 carb is a horrible beast but it will give quite a bit more ommph. avoid if you can and go straight to twin weber ICT 34's which can run on a single port quite happily

get electronic ignition on your distributor

upgrade your oil cooler and twinware to a doghouse type (if this hasn't already been done previously) - more power = more heat = more cooling

fit a good exhaust - personally I like a merged 4:1 header rather than the vintagespeed design

fit a thermostat and gauge, calibrate it and drive by temperature

fit a tachometer and gauge

fit a buttys accelerator linkage

fit a new shift linkage

check your brakes!

buy more fuel!
 
Thanks Weeboll.
Think I'm going to keep my little 1600sp and upgrade carbs, exhaust and look at full flow oil system for now. Engines coming out over Christmas because bus is being restored in January. Will also look that porting and polishing heads.
Cheers
 
Have a look on youTube and search for VWDarrin. He's has some videos of a super 1600 he builds, pretty bomb proof.
If you only intend to cruise at 60 and just need the torque then things are relatively cheap to do.
If you intend to motor at 70 all the time then you need a counterweighted crank and full balance to save the case being pounded out.


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Kaboosie said:
Thanks Weeboll.
Think I'm going to keep my little 1600sp and upgrade carbs, exhaust and look at full flow oil system for now. Engines coming out over Christmas because bus is being restored in January. Will also look that porting and polishing heads.
Cheers


You really should not need to full flow your Oil on a 1600cc it wont gain you anything, in fact may hinder if anything.

I am the first to say if your going 1776cc or above fit full flow, and certainlty a cooler.

If it is something you are going on (a 1600cc) to do then dont run an aditional cooler just an external filter.
 
So then the best thing to do is fit twin 34 carbs, exhaust and some porting and polishing on heads. And may be a external oil filter?
 
sounds like a plan! and check you have a doghouse oil cooler - stock single ports do not. it makes quite a difference.

and get electronic ignition
 
Ignore Monkiboy he is a bit dramatic. :lol: (Love you really Lee)

I have had electronic igntions fitted for 10 years,I had a few issues with MSD Stuff but the petronix modules fitted to either SVDA or 009 style dizzy's are fine. For the majority of people points are just another thing that needs maintenance, do away with them and be happy.

The reason some people have issues with them is poor wiring or using a cheap/old coil.

Yes there is less to go wrong with points and condensor but it needs maintenance which most people dont want.

There's abit of info for you so you can make a descision rather than being swayed by someone's over using CAPS lock ;)
 
Engine already has 009 distributor fitted, might change the points to Bosch type. Thanks again for info. Also on stock cooler not the dog.
 
I loves this forum I do :mrgreen: Even our disagreements are brilliant :lol: I`ve had both and never had a problem with either :shock: Maybe I is just lucky, but I do like fiddling when I gets a chance, but both sides have got something going for them :mrgreen:

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Merry Chrimble all :lol: :mrgreen: :lol:
 
I run megajolt, rock steady ignition and any advance I want, 3d curve driven by the engine speed (crank sensor) VS inlet vac. Am doing a NODIZ system for a mate that is very similar but a little newer in design.


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