1970 Devon Resto

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That was really useful. Every time I watch one of those tutorials I’m thinking I’ve got the hang of it until a week later when I go to use it . Then I grab the meter full of confidence then I turn it on and then I’m like ‘Doh’ and have to go back to the house and watch another tutorial. Gotta say you sound like you know what you are rattling on about. From experience, the super cheapo meters ain’t brill ;)

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,tis black magic them elecktricks :)
Take it one step at a time. Test a battery like an AA or similar on V and see your readings. For ohms turn the dial to the horshoe! and test an old speaker and you will get a reading. If you have it on its highest setting of Meg ohms hold the two leads and you will get a reading of your resistance. and the harder you squeeze the lower the resistance will be.. For current the meter is in series with the load and the red lead which was in the V/ohms socket goes into the highest 10 A (fused) socket. Solder two wires to a car bulb and use that to test for a current reading. Look at more than one video on the tube as some are easier to understand. I watched many many videos and learned how to make curtains for the van. I got what I wanted and I paid less! SoIMG_0633.JPG
 
Really like the material you have used. Any chance you can let us know where you got it from please.

J & P
:D:D:D
 
Take it one step at a time. Test a battery like an AA or similar on V and see your readings. For ohms turn the dial to the horshoe! and test an old speaker and you will get a reading. If you have it on its highest setting of Meg ohms hold the two leads and you will get a reading of your resistance. and the harder you squeeze the lower the resistance will be.. For current the meter is in series with the load and the red lead which was in the V/ohms socket goes into the highest 10 A (fused) socket. Solder two wires to a car bulb and use that to test for a current reading. Look at more than one video on the tube as some are easier to understand. I watched many many videos and learned how to make curtains for the van. I got what I wanted and I paid less! SoView attachment 4336
Great colour choice 🌈👍
 
Getting there... slowly. Finally started connecting up the electrics, having done any other job possible for the last few months to avoid it. Actually quite enjoying it now I've got over the mental block.

Aiming for it being drivable by June.

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Wowsers, that looks great and what a blast for you and your team. Are they still keen? I completely get the mental block thing, with me , I get advise from here or the net or one of my sparking buddies and it’s almost as if my brain is refusing to let the information get lodged in my head and I’m instantly thinking,,,,,, what did they say again??? I’ve been ‘harassed’ for want of a better word by my horn that I’ve got on a separate switch under the dash, just to keep it legal and mot’d . I could possibly talk you through what to do but I just seem to find tooooo many other things to do than wire my horn up properly, I hadn’t thought of it as a mental block before but maybe you’ve got that nail and that hammer connected for me :rolleyes:
I reckon we’ll see you in a field somewhere soon.:)

Ozziedog,,,,,,,, That looks just ace :):cool::cool::)
 
Thanks Ozziedog :)

One of the team is still keen and was doing a great job cleaning up and fitting the carbs last weekend. Clutch plate is the next (joint) job.

Looking forward to getting to some events this year.
 
I've been doing a lot of work in the engine bay, trying to get it ready for when the gearbox comes back from being rebuilt in a few weeks. I'm having it upgraded to the late bay ratios by swapping the ring and pinion which should make it much more driveable. I used to find that modern cars would nearly go into the back of me when I accelerated hard out of a junction in first but ran out of revs in 2 seconds. I had a 1979 2 litre van many years ago and it went along pretty well so hoping for a similar experience.

Fuel tank fitted and the firewall test fitted but now I've realised that Dove grey clashes with the body colour so I might have to go for a darker grey as it bugs me.

I've been researching the best place to have the fuel pump and having read that they are gravity fed rather than designed to pull, I decided to fit it to the chassis on the left and route the fuel pipe round the back since i won't be using the heater pipes. Then, i have a solenoid before the pump to cut the fuel when the ignition is off and bought a CSP relay that gives 5 seconds of power to the pump when the ignition is turned on. I could do with some advice here on whether I also wire the solenoid to the relay. That seems safer to me, so that fuel would be cut if the ignition was on but the engine wasn't running. Any concerns with any of this ?

Water might be a problem, so I'm going to heat shrink all of the connectors. Also, not shown on the photo is that I have a brass right angle pipe where the fuel line passes through the panel into the engine bay.
 

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It's been a while since my last update as I became really busy with various things but I have managed to mostly finish the van over winter and have been camping a few times this summer.

I still have a few ongoing issues - mostly related to manifold and carb nuts undoing themselves (even with spring washers, lock nuts and lock tight). Also my coil failed on the motorway which was a new one to me. It felt like there was an air leak as it would run fine at idle but at medium to high the engine stuttered and since I've been fighting air leaks for a while I assumed it was that. Anyway, lesson learnt and I'm now carrying a spare coil which was about the only spare part I didn't have.

Here's some photos.
 

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I found these nuts with a double washer, the washers have grooves machined in them so the lock together and one is welded to the nut, these combined with loctite means they never moved again
 
I did try the double nut technique and still had the problem so I thought that the studs were probably working themselves loose so red loctite'd some new ones in place and then used the metal locknuts that creationblue mentioned. That seems to have finally sorted it.

I like that you can use an allen key with those studs sparkywig - saves a lot of hassle in difficult to reach places.
 

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