2.0l for 1.6 swap?

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seabreeze2

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Hi Guys,

The engine on my '72 crossover has just about given up the ghost now, and while I would love a scooby engine to replace it with, finance dictates otherwise :cry: (ive a baby on the way soon :D )

What I was wondering was if the 2L from a later model would drop straight in place of my woefully underpowered 1.6 and if so what changes would I need to make...Clutch/Loom etc.

Cheers

Phil
 
I'm sure I looked into this a while back - apparently the throttle cable set up is different - but not difficult to fix!
Can't think of any other reason why not...

;)
 
The 1600 engine is a better engine to work with than a type 4.

You would be better off getting a decent 1600cc+ twin port with a pair of small carbs.
 
Chutney

The type 4 is a better engine all around, it's just misunderstood. Slap some small carbs on a 2l and your bus will fly, put them on a 1.6 and at best your getting adequate.

I know pete knows his onions but sorry for me theres no way you could recomend a 1.6 over a 2l other than for price and ease of parts.

BTW I currently have a 1.6 but hanker after a 2l again.

Regards Martyn
 
stodge said:
Chutney

The type 4 is a better engine all around, it's just misunderstood. Slap some small carbs on a 2l and your bus will fly, put them on a 1.6 and at best your getting adequate.

I know pete knows his onions but sorry for me theres no way you could recomend a 1.6 over a 2l other than for price and ease of parts.

BTW I currently have a 1.6 but hanker after a 2l again.

Regards Martyn

I've lived with two type 4 motors and they are the best of the bunch. But spares are getting pricey compared to Type 1, a good 1776 with decent carbs can be as good as a T4. IMHO
 
It might be as good in as much as it will produce as much power, it's just not going to last as long though all things being the same. The type 4 is built to handle more power, whatever you do on a type 1 your working on a case that was designed to take about 30 horses.

Regards
Martyn
 
They are a pain to get into a beetle as the standard tinware pokes out of the back of the car. You can convert to upright cooling which requires the case to be machined & parts cost about £1000 before you have rebuilt it.

Type 4 parts are expensive & usually sound clattery, I guess my experiences with them revolve around moody campers that have done lots of miles. They never seem to run right. Oh, & they are Soooo heavy.

They are indeed very misunderstood & it is possible to build a good one. There are little anoying things about a type 4 motor, like it takes ages to change a fan belt as you need to remove parts of the engine. The rocker covers are an arse to fit aswell, the spark plugs are awkward to get at too, so is the dizzy clamp.

Some good points are you can change push rod tubes in sutu quite easily. & if the fan belt does snap, it won't cook the engine. Aluminium case is stronger.
 
Pete,

Thanks, I was thinking of using the DTM kit from Raby on mine once I have been through it. I was more concerned about the flywheel/clutch side of things as most seem to say post 72 and mine, being a low light is a 70 :D

Loved your Volksworld feature car btw

Sorry to hijack the thread too :oops:
 

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