They're on! Using Super glue, the contact adhesive was too messy and I had to get the piston back out to clean all the glue off!
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Air in brake system
- Thread starter fallingoffalot
- Start date
Help Support Early Bay Forum:
Why not strip the residual pressure valve from the brake pipe connector, then reassemble and bleed?
Seems like a waste of time and brake fluid otherwise.
Seems like a waste of time and brake fluid otherwise.
Yes, good idea, cheers.
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Reassembled it all bled system with my lad on the pedal. Still spongy one of the rears would not bleed. I undid the nipple, nothing came out, not even air, what could be the cause of this?
Coda
Well-known member
There’s probably a leak somewhere.
Blockage in that line maybe [emoji848]
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Collapsed flexible brake hose or blocked bleeder
OK thanks I'll look tomorrow. Something else I've learnt, if you leave your 7mm spanner on the bleed nipple then go out for a drive it makes it very hard to find it again!!
Coda
Well-known member
:lol: You’re fortunate this is all you learned...fallingoffalot said:
Thanks for all the advice so far, it has been very useful. My rear brake issue is that the near side is not getting any (or very little fluid). So this must be some sort of blockage. The flexible hose looks very old and misshapen.
So I guess I just need a new hose
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So I guess I just need a new hose
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If the others are the same age examine them as well and replace if required, then you'll only need to bleed the brakes once.
Replaced the n/s hose, it was completely blocked, the other was fine (and was done up very tight!) Anyway all good now hopefully, pedal is consistent on each press, although still travels quite far, I assume this is down to the rears needing to be adjusted.
It took me at least an hour to get the clip off the top of the hose, it was in a really awkward position and I ended up pushing it up from the bottom with a screwdriver and hammer. The dirt on it made it look like it hadn't been changed for many years.
Looking forward to braking in a straight line!
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It took me at least an hour to get the clip off the top of the hose, it was in a really awkward position and I ended up pushing it up from the bottom with a screwdriver and hammer. The dirt on it made it look like it hadn't been changed for many years.
Looking forward to braking in a straight line!
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So brakes still a bit spongy, it's drivable but the pedal travels further on the fist push than the second if you know what I mean, is this normal I can't remember, they aren't very good though and I can't skid. I've bled it again but there doesn't seem to be any air coming out. Could there be air trapped somewhere that won't come out? Is this a sign that something else is wrong?
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- Early Bay
I had the same with mine (only firm on 2nd push) until I did the recent work on the rear, the fault was the rear cylinder. But it was the final front bleed that sorted the pedal out after I’d set the rear shoes. I have drums all round btw
This is from vw resource.
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This is from vw resource.
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Thanks Matty, I'll have another stab tomorrow.
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A new problem had appeared, I bought some new front disk pads, concerned that the old ones may be contaminated or something. Anyway I can't get one in! This is because the boot on the inner side won't sit flush and won't allow enough room to slide the new pad in. I could do with the pad being 1-2mm thinner. Any suggestions anyone?
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You'll all be pleased to know that my brakes are perfect now! I can brake in a straight line [emoji846]
The old pads turned out to be fine, they got about 8mm left.
The front brakes no longer drag, all I did was clean up the spring-clip with some 600 grit.
The handbrake works on both wheels at about 5-6 clicks.
When the current pads need replacing, I'm going to have to get some new calipers otherwise I won't get the new pads in.
Thanks for all the advice over the last few weeks it's been quite an adventure!
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The old pads turned out to be fine, they got about 8mm left.
The front brakes no longer drag, all I did was clean up the spring-clip with some 600 grit.
The handbrake works on both wheels at about 5-6 clicks.
When the current pads need replacing, I'm going to have to get some new calipers otherwise I won't get the new pads in.
Thanks for all the advice over the last few weeks it's been quite an adventure!
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Great result [emoji106]
May have missed it but did you have to remove the residual pressure valve on the m/c connector in the end?
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May have missed it but did you have to remove the residual pressure valve on the m/c connector in the end?
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Cheers Mike, I looked into removing the valve, but it didn't quite look the same and the dragging didn't seem to be as bad as what was described, so thankfully it appears to have been done or was not needed.
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I think it came to you with disks, so it must have already been done by the PO.
