Another crankshaft end float issue

[mikemango]

I am currently rebuilding a 1600 twin port engine, but having a bit of trouble with the end float measurement?
Without any shims I'm getting 0.70 mm end float?
Too small to get the required 3 shim stack up.
I've now noticed that the previous builder had used a small metal 0.2mm shim/ gasket between the flywheel and the crankshaft to give extra end float and allow the fitting of three shims.(the one you get with the Elring gasket set for earlier engines)
I've read this is possible on previous threads.
But my question is:
Before I stripped the engine I was getting oil on the clutch, and have found nothing wrong with the main seal, the o ring was seated nicely in the fly wheel,no cracks in the casing or other usual oil leak areas, so could this shim have anything to do with the leak?

(The casing has been alighn bored and thrust cut in the past)

My options are : refit the metal shim between the crank and flywheel
: machine 0.2 mm off the flywheel thrust face.
Any suggestions
Thank you
Mike

 

[dustrat]

Did you measure the recess where the thrust bearing seats before rebuilding case or did you just replace thrust bearing like for like.Bit late to measure now unless you strip case down again. Having built a few engines and thrust recess and bearing OK I have come across the same problem as you and have had to put metal shim into get thrust with in tolerences. Taking metal off flywheel is not going to solve problem it is only going to make flywheel closer to engine case. Is the oil on clutch plate coming from engine case or is it coming from gearbox via gearbox out put shaft. As you have engine out I would change out put shaft oil seal and also get good quality flywheel oil seal which I have found are tighter internal fit.
Robert

 

[mikemango]

Bearings are the same ones that came out, stripped engine to find leak after replacing two main oil seals in 2000 miles.
Changed shaft input seal in gearbox, new clutch plate, pressure plate, flywheel, crack detected the casings and didn't find anything. New top quality main seal.
Just this shim on the end of the crank?
It's supposed to be a reconditioned engine?
I've had to change cylinder heads, cam shaft and followers sort out pulled studs and studs fitted too short, incorrectly fitted push rod seals......... The list goes on!!!
Should have rebuilt it myself in the first place, some recon engines arent too clever.
Anyway I'm hoping it'll be ok after this rebuild.
Still don't understand why the shim has been used on the end of the crank?
I'm guessing the align bore and thrust cut may have something to do with it?
Thanks
Mike

 

[dustrat]

Unfortunatley without seeing engine ie hands on it is impossible to diagnose problem and any advice would only be guess work. I think you are going to have strip engine down again and check thrust bearing recess etc. 2 crankshaft seals in that short of period of suggest something seriously wrong. If the case is sealed properly, I use Gasgacinch gasket sealer, the only two places oil could be coming from are crankshaft oil seal and camshaft end plug. You mentioned some of head studs were too short, when you change from single port heads to twin port heads you have to change the top 2 middle studs as they are too short. I have seen where some so called ''engine builders'' just screw the studs out of case to allow nuts to fit which in time end up pulling out of case.Let us know how you get on.
Robert