Balljoint to Link and Pin

[freddie]

Hey all, recently bought a 68 westy, needs slamming badly. Thinking im gonna go for the slamwerks 4 inch link and pin beam + drop spindles as the price isnt too bad its its quite local to me.

My bay is a 68 (i think, its not registered yet) but isnt the one year only 68 model, so is probably the same beam as a 69.

Anyway, i may have a go at fitting the linka and pin beam myself depending on how much slamwerks charge to fit it aswell. How hard is it to fit? What modifications do i need to allow a link and pin beam to fit?

Thanks

Freddie

 

[dubdubz]

why not buy transporterhaus balljoint dropped spindles and keep your beam?

if you're going super low and narrow , then a slamwerks ball joint beam might be an option, it's getting harder to find decent split beams at a good price, ie cheap , I searched for ages and couldn't find one that stacked up in the overall sums!

 

[freddie]

why not buy transporterhaus balljoint dropped spindles and keep your beam?

if you're going super low and narrow , then a slamwerks ball joint beam might be an option, it's getting harder to find decent split beams at a good price, ie cheap , I searched for ages and couldn't find one that stacked up in the overall sums!

The reason i wanna go to Link and Pin is because im told you can go pretty damn slammed and still have a bit more clearence than with a balljoint beam, I dont want my beam hitting the floor (too much) I think slamwerks do a link and pin narrow beam that WILL fit a balljoint bay, just not sure how hard it is to make it fit.

 

[dubdubz]

I think that with the new wave of dropped spindles for BJ ones ie flipped, then the balljoint ones are able to get as low - see Clems's thread on here - it was not on the lowest adjuster setting with T2D spindles and the tyres were resting on the arches!!

K&L is old technology and I'm not getting into the debate BUT the up-till-recently way of getting a bay slammed was to use the K&L, now the reversed balljoints are here I think that has changed? slightly?

I'm not sure what the maximum drop is - lets say 10 inches - you get 3.5" drop straight away - the same as K&L....I s'pose you could argue that the next problem when really slamming is bj's that bind still? But then a super slammed bay isn't safe due to the old favourite of scrublines

It's old and boring but the safest way to go low is air, but I'm sure that's not what you had planned otherwise your title would have been different :lol:

 

[Clem]

I think that with the new wave of dropped spindles for BJ ones ie flipped, then the balljoint ones are able to get as low - see Clems's thread on here - it was not on the lowest adjuster setting with T2D spindles and the tyres were resting on the arches!!

Yeah, with dropped spindles and adjusters the limit really is wheel tubs, beam end plates and scrublines and I guess it will need narrowing at that point anyway, and fitting a k&l provides that 'out of the box'. I went this route mainly due to the minefield of sourcing all the stuff for k&l, and like you say, the mounting costs.

There must be other factors involved? T2D are still doing k&l conversions to bays despite selling dropped spindles and narrowed beams .. there must be a reason for that?

 

[stagger lee]

i was told on here that a split beam fitted to a bj chassis is already narrower by an inch or so and also lower by an inch or so as the beam tubes are closer together effectively tucking the lower tube up higher, out the way of the ground etc?

 

[Slamwerks]

Cool bus dude looks nice and clean.

Give us a call at slamwerks when you have a few moments spare we will be happy to answer all your questions. your right We do make a linkpin beam that is just for bays early or late bolt pattern a straight bolt on as well.

We can supply you with all the parts to fit a linkpin front end there is no need for you to have to hunt for parts. Or we could fit it for you its not as expensive as you might think.

Anyhow hope this helps

Thanks

Guy

http://www.slamwerks.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[freddie]

i was told on here that a split beam fitted to a bj chassis is already narrower by an inch or so and also lower by an inch or so as the beam tubes are closer together effectively tucking the lower tube up higher, out the way of the ground etc?

Thats what i thought, im possitive that a link and pin beam IS narrower, and im also quite possitive it does tuck up a tad higher allowing less beam smacking!!!

Thanks for the reply Guy, i will give you a ring when i get a minute. So you make link + pin beams that bolt straight onto a balljoint bus. Thats answered my question really and gave me some confidence that i COULD fit it myself.

Im not too clued up on it all but reckon i could fit one with a bit of help. I'll definatly give you a ring Slamwerks.

Thanks guys.

 

[faux]

I would always say, if you are not sure use the experts, and Slamwerks seem pretty helpful and reasonable. And very often worth paying the extra to take the hassle out of life.

I have done two of these conversions now, mine and Windsurfers bus. On a pre August 69 bus it is pretty straight forward.....or as straight forward as working on any 40 year old vehicle. The difficult bits, narrowing the leaves and re-drilling, correct measuring and shimming the link pins, possibly bleeding the brakes, removing the gear linkage, removing the clutch cable,

Don't forget the rear end, that can be fiddly too. The spring plates on a 68/69 don't have a slot for the brake line to slip through so you'll have to take that all appart too, and unless you are using adjustables you will want a 2/3 spline drop which will need notching of the springplate, new shocks and cut down bumpstops.... (But i think you have done a rear before......... )

The stock split beam is narrower and the tubes are closer together so less likely to hit the floor when slammed. I think slamwerks also lift the steering pin I think.

Jon

 

[freddie]

I would always say, if you are not sure use the experts, and Slamwerks seem pretty helpful and reasonable. And very often worth paying the extra to take the hassle out of life.

I have done two of these conversions now, mine and Windsurfers bus. On a pre August 69 bus it is pretty straight forward.....or as straight forward as working on any 40 year old vehicle. The difficult bits, narrowing the leaves and re-drilling, correct measuring and shimming the link pins, possibly bleeding the brakes, removing the gear linkage, removing the clutch cable,

Don't forget the rear end, that can be fiddly too. The spring plates on a 68/69 don't have a slot for the brake line to slip through so you'll have to take that all appart too, and unless you are using adjustables you will want a 2/3 spline drop which will need notching of the springplate, new shocks and cut down bumpstops.... (But i think you have done a rear before......... )

The stock split beam is narrower and the tubes are closer together so less likely to hit the floor when slammed. I think slamwerks also lift the steering pin I think.

Jon

Thanks dude When i have saved up enough to buy the whole lot i will have a good look/think about if i think i can fit it myself (with a little help) If i cant then like you say, its definatly worth paying that little bit more to know its done properly and safley!

And yes i have done the rear before (on a bay that is :lol Will probably slightly notch my spring plates and just go 2 splines until i can afford adjustable's.

Just need to start saving now..... bring on the next student loan