Cheryl’s first bus

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Put an electric fuel pump in which gives instant fuel when ignition is on. (not dependent on engine turning over to give fuel to carb) Eliminates possible fuel leaks into sump too. Have you changed the flexible fuel breather connections behind the firewall? Engine needs to be out for this so the tank breather connections are accessible. This is an important thing to do as this is an extreme fire risk especially when the tank is full which expands in hot weather. The pipes and connections are hidden away and probably have not been replaced ever. These will be brittle with the E fuel. Look in the side air inlets and you will see the expansion vessels which look like little bottles. The pump is Facet made in US. Use ethanol fuel inhibitor to protect tank etc. Drawings show where flexible connections are. Also consider a fire suppressant system. What's your van worth to you? £200 might seem a lot but it is protecting thousands of pounds worth of your hard earned money ??

Thanks for the info

£200 for fire safety isn’t a lot of money at all
 
Not much to update on. Did a compression test

2 cylinders are 150psi and 2 are 140psi

Fitted a balance pipe using some fuel hose as a test and it idles much much better, need to find something that isn’t so thick to use and route it somewhere

It idles a bit higher now though 1100 on cold then climbs to 1400 when warmed up if memory serves me correctly

and smells like it’s putting a lot of fuel through so probably needs another fiddle lol
 
Drove him to the shops for a little test run. Ended up going the long way for a road test.

If I accelerate hard the power drops, I think maybe it’s overfueling, it’s a very crashy bangy ride, may need to look at the suspension at some point.

there’s some old glue under the seats, assuming this was used to fit carpet, I wouldn’t mind getting it all cleared off, it’s all in the back compartment too. Anyone got any recommendations to remove it without blistering the paint?

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If it is indeed overfueling, it has to go somewhere and that somewhere is usually in the sump. This ain’t a good thing and can make your oil next to useless, so check your oil for an increase in level and have a good sniff of it. The needle and seats on these aren’t very good nowadays.

Ozziedog',,,,,,,,,,don’t run it much if it’s the case. :)
 
If it is indeed overfueling, it has to go somewhere and that somewhere is usually in the sump. This ain’t a good thing and can make your oil next to useless, so check your oil for an increase in level and have a good sniff of it. The needle and seats on these aren’t very good nowadays.

Ozziedog',,,,,,,,,,don’t run it much if it’s the case. :)

Makes perfect sense, I will check the oil tomorrow. Thank you
 
You can use a toffee wheel to remove the glue from the paintwork.
As for the ride, it looks like you're running low just on beam adjusters which will make the ride crashy. Dropped spindles will help, and maybe some suitable shocks.
A few people on here recommend Bilsteins.
https://type2detectives.com/collections/suspension/Bilstein-shocks
 
You can use a toffee wheel to remove the glue from the paintwork.
As for the ride, it looks like you're running low just on beam adjusters which will make the ride crashy. Dropped spindles will help, and maybe some suitable shocks.
A few people on here recommend Bilsteins.
https://type2detectives.com/collections/suspension/Bilstein-shocks

Thank you for that. Seems like a cheap fix, I’m sure it’s knocking as well, but I forget to take things out of the cupboards so it could be that making the noise 😂
 
Going to be busy this weekend. Fit all this lot and measure valve clearances.

what sealant do I need to fit barbs?

Free drink for correct answer of what’s here lol

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Busy day today.

Changed the oil filter, strainer, spark plugs, leads, dizzy cap, set the valve clearances, had 2 do oil strainer twice as it poured oil out the first time I did it lol

when I set cylinder 1 in place, the cylinder 2 valves wouldn’t move which is correct, however when I sent to cylinder 2, one of the valves on cyclinder 1 would move, not sure if that’s an issue or not?

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More tinkering. Cleaning the engine bay, underneath, I have zero leaks, fan belt changed.

Air leaking at the manifolds though, so need manifold gaskets, which ones are the best?

hoping gaskets fixes the issue. Could air leak from anywhere else around that area?
 
Well perseverance pays off. We are all up and running, runs mint when it’s warmed up, not so great when it’s cold but can’t have it both ways lol

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Well perseverance pays off. We are all up and running, runs mint when it’s warmed up, not so great when it’s cold but can’t have it both ways lol

That I’m afraid is the downside of having those lovely twin jugs, there’s no choke. Same as what’s I have . When I start mine up after I’ve checked my oil, I’ve got the garage door already open because of the zoorst fumes , then I back him out and jump back out and lock everything up then gently reverse him up the lane. Get out on to the road and he’s almost warmed up by the end of the street. Tis a bit different in the winter, but he don’t come out to play so much in the winter .

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,it’s all nicer in the warmer weather innit :)
 
Great news! Mine has no choke so (if I remember) I let it idle for 5-10 mins before driving, esp in cold weather. But like you is say it takes a few miles to get warmed up. When I had a vintage speed saust on it used to backfire a lot when cold. Hardly does it at all with the 4-1 stainless I've got on now.
 
Great news! Mine has no choke so (if I remember) I let it idle for 5-10 mins before driving, esp in cold weather. But like you is say it takes a few miles to get warmed up. When I had a vintage speed saust on it used to backfire a lot when cold. Hardly does it at all with the 4-1 stainless I've got on now.

How does it handles at low rpm whilst driving? Mine stutters really bad when cold, and still does it a little bit when warmed up

But if I open throttle up it kinda revs past it if that makes sense
 
How does it handles at low rpm whilst driving? Mine stutters really bad when cold, and still does it a little bit when warmed up

But if I open throttle up it kinda revs past it if that makes sense
It sounds like the idle jets may be the wrong size, I had mine on a rolling road and we tried larger (I think) idle jets and the symptoms were like you described. When I took it out on the road it was hesitant and stuttering below about 3000 rpm, when I put the old ones back it was fine.
 
tried to do some interior bits today

Sat down for 5 minutes and realised it’s to warm

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