CSP disc brake conversion on 1970 van - anyone done it?

[piggy]

Hi All
I'm half way through upgrading my van to CSP steel wheel solid discs and am having an issue with the master cylinder.

The kit and Cool Air advised me to change the master cylinder to the 1972 dual circuit master cylinder as the original is not up to working disc brakes. This means re routing the brake pipe runs (done) and a new master cylinder reservoir (bought), which also needs to be re routed to the cabin reservoir as its port is on the opposite side to the 1970 unit so really it can only be fitted rearwards (nightmare).

I have now found that the pushrod length needs to be adjusted and the darn thing is jammed in place solid.

Has anyone else had these issues or have you done it differently to me (or even left the original master cylinder on!!?)

Thanks in advance

James

 

[piggy]

I have sorted it after a lot of reading, different manuals etc. etc..

So if you want ever do this conversion, and save yourself all the grief I went through, planning on re-routing reservoir hoses. A master cylinder reservoir that requires moving the throttle cable or re positioning the upper reservior. Buying a brake flaring tool and making up re-routed. brake pipes to fit the late bay 24mm diameter piston master cylinder.... Read on.

If you have a 1968-70 bay and you are doing the CSP front disc conversion the paperwork will tell you not to use the existing master cylinder, and all UK distributors will sell you the 24mm servo master cylinder for discs = all issues listed above.

Your OLD 22mm diameter piston drum brake master cylinder WILL work as long as the residual pressure valves are removed - without them removed your discs will bind. As the pressure valves unscrew from the master cylinder (they fit between it and the brake pipes on the brake pipe ports) CSP sell a very simple kit that simply replaces them with M12 to M10 adaptors - 2 off required.

Cost 8 euros each plus twice that shipping and you will be away. I have spoken to CSP at length about this and they have confirmed it works.

Have fun....

 

[Matt84]

Very useful,

Karma to that man!

 

[Bluesnailman]

Forget buying those bits, take the existing ones out, take a pair of pliers to the one way part and they non return valve snaps off.... Clean and reassemble. I fired futbus disks, kept master cylinder and put a Vw Jim servo on. Now brakes just lovely. I did need to redo all the brake pipes, but they were the original steel and rusty in places so I just saved some pain at a later date.

 

[Bluesnailman]

Ohh. And a pressure regulator as fitted to a latebay might be a good idea

 

[piggy]

It was worth getting the bits for my peace of mind, its a fully TUV certified conversion then and all their (CSP) bits.... Appreciate not everyone may want to do that.

If you hack out the residual pressure valve from the adaptors surlely the diameter is still smaller so you will get some resitriction in fluid flow between the master cylinder and the pipes??

 

[Bluesnailman]

Diameter of brake pipe was smaller than 'modified' connector. I saw a post by others on here, I think with photos. Take it apart and have look yourself when your doing the work, I've no qualms about it. Hacking sounds a bit strong, more of a snap and check there were no springs or rubber left around....

 

[mike.s]

Resurrection of thread!

Just fitted a CSP brake conversion myself on my 68 bay. I used the 2 x m10 m12 adaptors, but not 100% sure i have fitted them correctly,

I`ve found after bleeding the brakes, my front wheels will lock up with the pedal, but the rear ones, although they lock up, with a bit of effort, you can turn them by hand while someone is holding the pedal hard.

The 68 master cylinder has 3 outlets - 2 to each of the front wheels and one to the rear (where it splits at the back of the van).

I removed the 2 valves (?) that fit into the master cylinder going to the front wheels and put in the 2 adaptors supplied to me - is that correct?

THanks, MIke