cutting out at junctions....

[AxlFoley]

is this just something we have to deal with?

I have had in my time 4 beetles and my bay and none of them have ever idled at a junction, is there a seret to it or do they just not idle ?

 

[68_early_bay]

Single carb? Could be blocked idle jet, split in the inlet boot on the manifold, or leaking spindle/bush on the carb, thems a few that can cause your bus to cut out coming to a junction So you shouldn't have to deal with it, it's curable

 

[AxlFoley]

yeah single carb, on a 1600 single port. possibly worth chucking some carb cleaner at it then.

 

[sparkywig]

Sounds like an air leak on the inlet side.

 

[AxlFoley]

I was thinking that, I recently replaced the fuel cut of valve, should it have a washer, or is it ok to use PTFE?

 

[*Sam*]

On a slightly different note a few people have been posting in your 1303 gearbox adaptor thread asking if you are doing another batch.

 

[AxlFoley]

I know, I'm in the process of sorting one out, been a bit out of the loop lately, but trying to get back into it.

 

[Shaunb]

I had exactly the same issue on mine, just stalling on idle and aproaching junctions!
Found the two rubber sleeves on the air inlet split. No more issues.

 

[AxlFoley]

I don't have them on a SP, I think it's the fuel cut off, going to have a look later. Fingers crossed!!


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[Bay pride]

Mine was doing this, think it was the points gap, can't quite remember but they're easy to adjust!


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[Bod]

I had exactly the same issue on mine, just stalling on idle and aproaching junctions!
Found the two rubber sleeves on the air inlet split. No more issues.

Is it easy to change the two rubber sleeves with the manifold still attached to the cylinder heads?

Cheers,

Simon

 

[lard]

Hi - I struggled on my twin port to change the boots with the engine in, loosened manifolds and all sorts, managed one side but gave up and removed the manifolds, and really should have dropped the engine and saved myself time and swearing

You can get split boots to fit in situ but wasn't aware of them before I attempted mine :roll:

http://www.mamotorworks.com/vw/Product/dual-port-split-intake-manifol319934" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Bod]

Hi Lard, thanks very much for letting us know, I think I will source a pair of the split ones and change mine. Cheers, Simon.

 

[Gütterßnipe]

Hi Lard, thanks very much for letting us know, I think I will source a pair of the split ones and change mine. Cheers, Simon.

Hi,

I replaced mine a couple of years back with the engine in situ.

Here's what I posted........

Spence

Ok, I got both boots replaced today without removing engine/alternator/carb/fuel pump etc.

It took about 2.5 hours which isn't too bad considering I've never done this before!

Real easy really - no need to ever do more than what's listed below.

1/ Remove hoses from fan and air filter - I trashed these as decided to replace with new
2/ Removed front tinware
3/ Removed stock air cleaner/oil bath
4/ Removed the 4 heat riser bolts from muffler these were seized and took a lot of WD40
5/ Remove nuts on L/H intake manifold
6/ Loosened nuts on R/H intake manifold
The rear nuts on the manifolds proved to be the biggest problem :evil:
7/ Remove nut bolted onto crankcase below intake manifold center section
8/ Loosened the four band clamps holding on the rubber boots
9/ Cut the old rubber boots off the central manifold with a Stanley knife
10/ Removed the L/H intake manifold
11/ Slid the center section an inch or so to the left to clear the R/H manifold
12/ Installed the new boots, (made sure the jubilee clips were in position first)
I'd bought tough urethane ones that were not so flexible so the R/H one was a bit of a sod to fit, but still squeezed on without too much fuss.

Everything went back together in reverse order of the above - a lot quicker!

Dead pleased with myself so took the bus to the beach :lol:

Spence

 

[Bod]

Hi Lard, thanks very much for letting us know, I think I will source a pair of the split ones and change mine. Cheers, Simon.

Hi,

I replaced mine a couple of years back with the engine in situ.

Here's what I posted........

Spence

Ok, I got both boots replaced today without removing engine/alternator/carb/fuel pump etc.

It took about 2.5 hours which isn't too bad considering I've never done this before!

Real easy really - no need to ever do more than what's listed below.

1/ Remove hoses from fan and air filter - I trashed these as decided to replace with new
2/ Removed front tinware
3/ Removed stock air cleaner/oil bath
4/ Removed the 4 heat riser bolts from muffler these were seized and took a lot of WD40
5/ Remove nuts on L/H intake manifold
6/ Loosened nuts on R/H intake manifold
The rear nuts on the manifolds proved to be the biggest problem :evil:
7/ Remove nut bolted onto crankcase below intake manifold center section
8/ Loosened the four band clamps holding on the rubber boots
9/ Cut the old rubber boots off the central manifold with a Stanley knife
10/ Removed the L/H intake manifold
11/ Slid the center section an inch or so to the left to clear the R/H manifold
12/ Installed the new boots, (made sure the jubilee clips were in position first)
I'd bought tough urethane ones that were not so flexible so the R/H one was a bit of a sod to fit, but still squeezed on without too much fuss.

Everything went back together in reverse order of the above - a lot quicker!

Dead pleased with myself so took the bus to the beach :lol:

Spence

Thanks so much for this, my bank holiday weekend is now sorted. Cheers. Simon.

 

[Tofufi]

What air filters have you had fitted to the cars?

Is the hot air feed and temperature control mechanism fitted and working correctly?

Is it worse in wet/cold weather?

 

[user 20815]

Simon
Just done mine and it's a bit tricky but doable. Whip the carb off and make sure you take the nut completely off which secures the manifold directly below the carb. The manifold will slide out if you just loosen the nut but the nut gets in the way so remove it.

Also before you start get yourself a cheap can of carb cleaner (brake cleaner is the same stuff and usually cheaper), run the engine and squirt the carb cleaner around all the different parts. When the engine races you've found your leak. Worth doing this before you start as it may be more than just the boots as it was in my case.

Good luck.

John