CV Joint assembly

[angus]

Is this correct?

I'm looking at the groove that is machined around the CV joint itself - should it be 'boot side' (as shown) or facing outwards towards the gearbox/rear stub axle? Does it matter?!

And that concave spring washer - I have read different opinions in different places as to if you need it or not - if you do, its making it sodding difficult to tap everything down and insert the spring clip! Any tips?

 

[Harlequin]

just checked pics in haynes & bentley manuals....groove is on the outer edge
getting that circlip on ain't easy when its covered in grease ( did cv boot change this saturday

 

[angus]

Thanks - so I need to turn that joint around.
Still need washer though I guess....

 

[dp]

Bentley says to leave the domed washer off - that's what I've done on mine.

 

[angus]

Thanks guys - someone else has just said the same on Kamperchat (forgive me :roll: :lol: )
Think I'll get hold of Bentley book though.....sounds usefull!

 

[Clarkson46]

To get the circlip on simply start the circlip over the splines and using a suitable sized socket drive the circlip on and the circlip will snap in. That how Bentley says to do it and it works.

 

[angus]

Thats the method I was using.

Ok, so tried it without the washer, and it leaves the CV joint with a good 2-3mm play in it (as you would expect) - is this correct? Is the concave washer more important on older shafts? I'm only asking because it can't be right that the CV joint can slap backwards and forwards against the spline ends and circlip?
One method we have tried is to put the washer on under the circlip - this has worked well in terms of stopping the slap of the CV joint...um, still not sure about this. I appreicate that Bentleys say leave the washer off - guess that must mean the movement is ok?

 

[Clarkson46]

Thats the method I was using.

Ok, so tried it without the washer, and it leaves the CV joint with a good 2-3mm play in it (as you would expect) - is this correct? Is the concave washer more important on older shafts? I'm only asking because it can't be right that the CV joint can slap backwards and forwards against the spline ends and circlip?
One method we have tried is to put the washer on under the circlip - this has worked well in terms of stopping the slap of the CV joint...um, still not sure about this. I appreicate that Bentleys say leave the washer off - guess that must mean the movement is ok?

I agree entirely about the play. I have to admit that I ignored Bentley and fitted the washer as VW originally intended. Driving it on with a socket works, as my signature says don't force it, use a bigger hammer. It takes quite a thump to get it on but it does go.

 

[Araon]

The Bentley does take every effort to stress not to use the dished washer......are yours late CV or early as the Bentley also states that earlies are no longer available and only 75> can be acquired??? is there a slight difference other than the boot fitment?

 

[angus]

CV joints are new, shafts are probably original '68's.
with washer in 'proper' place, the slot for the circlip isn't visible at all - ie: its going to take a massive wack to compress enough to get the circlip in (as you say Clarkson!)
Without it fitted at all, the CV joint just floats, which can't be right. It can slide back and forwards by about 2-3 mm.
I'll take a pic of the washer under the circlip - halfway house means dished washer is effectively 'not fitted' but is used to take up the slack - if that makes sense!!

 

[Clarkson46]

I have to say I just fitted a new boot so just replaced what I found there. The circlip groove was partially visible so only needed to move a small amount to engage the circlip. It would seem that VW modified things and the dished washer is no longer required. The movement shouldn't be an issue as the real movement of the shaft is in the actual joints themselves.

 

[angus]

I reckon they must have tweaked the length of splines (made them shorter!) - I can't see the circlip groove when using the washer so the 'compression' (bloody big hammer) required is quite large! I don't like the thought of the CV joint banging up against the end of the splines and the circlip, though I take your point that most of the movement occurs in the joints themselves.
This is the best we can do so far - washer acting like a 'spacer' to keep things nice and tight, but not acting in its 'compression' mode, if you see what I mean!

 

[Clarkson46]

I've check my type 25 manual and the cv joints do not use the dished washer. The cv joints are the same and shafts are just a different length. So it would seem that the washers are not necessary in later versions.

 

[angus]

Makes sense - I think I'll use the washer as shown above - I prefer that to the slack that I get on mine without the washer. Thanks for the info etc

 

[dp]

I wish you'd not posted this - you're making me want to get my driveshafts back off and see if I can get the domed washers on, and I hate those damn circlips

 

[angus]

:mrgreen:

 

[angus]

Cork gasket - inbetween boot and CV joint?

 

[dp]

Nope - did you get these with your CV joints????

 

[angus]

yep - discard?
CV joints from VW Heritage

 

[dp]

I only fitted one new CV joint (lobro / GKN joint from German & Swedish) when I did mine. This didn't come with any gaskets, and there certainly wasn't any evidence of gaskets with the originals.

Pretty sure there's no mention of a gasket in Bentley and I couldn't see mention of one on http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=1150562894 either having just had a quick look.

:?