Electric Hook Up

[Dropdeadfreduk]

I would like to put an electric hook up in my '71. Ideally in the engine bay. Anyone done this and willing to share how they did it? Are there any kits that you can buy? Many thanks


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[landiedave]

I was going to but decided against it and brought a plug in reel of cable with 3 pin sockets on from Go Outdoors as it was cheap and easy. The bonus is I can leave the plug in cool box in the awning when we are out for the day. Dave

 

[67westy]

A few threads about the reels on late bay. Apparently it still needs earthing to the bus if used internally rather than in the awning

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[Webbaldo]

Nowt too it really, you can make it as simple or as complicated as you want.

If you can wire a plug, the following isn't much harder

Average cost setup- 16amp socket in the engine bay then most fit a garage consumer unit (a mini version of your house fuse box) under R&R bed which then goes to appliances/sockets.

(16 amp socket)

Consumer Unit

Easy/Cheap method - You can do it on the really cheap with 16amp socket straight to inline RCD (like people use for lawnmowers) then 4way adapter or sockets

Inline RCD

The RCD and onsite unit (next to the site hookup) should kill the power before owt happens anyway if theirs a fault.

Or the other way buy a zig unit, such as the cf2000 if you want built in 12v leisure battery charger and separate fuses for lights etc.

If using reels, they need to be totally unwound, as they heat up if using heaters/big appliances! Easier to uncoil the 16amp lead and just chuck the cable under the van.

It is very DIY friendly, no need to get scared, Get it checked once fitted if your unsure.

Ive used all three methods in the past. A teardrop with just RCD to full blown t25 with zig unit, lights, leisure battery.

This time I'm just doing basic 240v hookup with RCD and no 12v as If I'm not on site I have coleman lamps and petrol stove anyway.

 

[sparkywig]

If you're fitting 230V in your bus the chassis needs earthing.
Please remember it's a big metal box sitting on 4 rubber insulators, so if you have a fault and the bus becomes live the next person to step in or out will be the earth path.
I do this for a living, so if you've got any questions please ask.

 

[Dropdeadfreduk]

Nowt too it really, you can make it as simple or as complicated as you want.

If you can wire a plug, the following isn't much harder

Average cost setup- 16amp socket in the engine bay then most fit a garage consumer unit (a mini version of your house fuse box) under R&R bed which then goes to appliances/sockets.

(16 amp socket)

Consumer Unit

Easy/Cheap method - You can do it on the really cheap with 16amp socket straight to inline RCD (like people use for lawnmowers) then 4way adapter or sockets

Inline RCD

The RCD and onsite unit (next to the site hookup) should kill the power before owt happens anyway if theirs a fault.

Or the other way buy a zig unit, such as the cf2000 if you want built in 12v leisure battery charger and separate fuses for lights etc.

If using reels, they need to be totally unwound, as they heat up if using heaters/big appliances! Easier to uncoil the 16amp lead and just chuck the cable under the van.

It is very DIY friendly, no need to get scared, Get it checked once fitted if your unsure.

Ive used all three methods in the past. A teardrop with just RCD to full blown t25 with zig unit, lights, leisure battery.

This time I'm just doing basic 240v hookup with RCD and no 12v as If I'm not on site I have coleman lamps and petrol stove anyway.

Thanks for this. Perfect. One question, how do you get the feed from the engine bay into the cab itself? Thanks again


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[Dropdeadfreduk]

If you're fitting 230V in your bus the chassis needs earthing.
Please remember it's a big metal box sitting on 4 rubber insulators, so if you have a fault and the bus becomes live the next person to step in or out will be the earth path.
I do this for a living, so if you've got any questions please ask.

Great point! How do you earth the chassis? Is it straightforward? Thank you


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[rlepecha]

If you're fitting 230V in your bus the chassis needs earthing.
Please remember it's a big metal box sitting on 4 rubber insulators, so if you have a fault and the bus becomes live the next person to step in or out will be the earth path.
I do this for a living, so if you've got any questions please ask.

Great point! How do you earth the chassis? Is it straightforward? Thank you


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I have tapped off the earth in the hook up cable to the body of the van.
Usually the RCD housings have a location where the earth is split through a connector block, I used this as my point to tie the chassis to.

Just going to throw this one out there, something I read about last year.. If you plan on going to Europe at any point and using EHU over there, ensure your RCD you fit is a double pole type.
The wiring in Europe is poor, and live & neutral often get reversed which would render a single pole RCD useless I believe.
There's very little difference in price, so probably not worth taking the risk with the singe pole. You never know how well some of these EHU systems are wired up in the UK either, there's some pretty questionable campsite set ups out there.

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[sparkywig]

If you're fitting 230V in your bus the chassis needs earthing.
Please remember it's a big metal box sitting on 4 rubber insulators, so if you have a fault and the bus becomes live the next person to step in or out will be the earth path.
I do this for a living, so if you've got any questions please ask.

Great point! How do you earth the chassis? Is it straightforward? Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have tapped off the earth in the hook up cable to the body of the van.
Usually the RCD housings have a location where the earth is split through a connector block, I used this as my point to tie the chassis to.

Just going to throw this one out there, something I read about last year.. If you plan on going to Europe at any point and using EHU over there, ensure your RCD you fit is a double pole type.
The wiring in Europe is poor, and live & neutral often get reversed which would render a single pole RCD useless I believe.
There's very little difference in price, so probably not worth taking the risk with the singe pole. You never know how well some of these EHU systems are wired up in the UK either, there's some pretty questionable campsite set ups out there.

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It's not good practice to fit a single pole rcd as a main switch anyway.