End float, does this sound right?

[jammac]

My crankshaft seal had been leaking oil so removed it and the flywheel o ring.

In this configuration I measured 0.24mm Endfloat using a DTI clamped to the case measuring close to the centre of the flywheel.

I fitted new shims to achieve Endfloat of 0.09 - 0.10 mm within Haynes tolerances of 0.07-0.13mm.

Installed new genuine crankshaft seal and flywheel o ring torqued the new gland nut to 253ft/lbs and now the flywheel feels tight. Pulling fwd & aft doesn't seem to show any movement although I haven't measured this.

I know the o ring will take up the slack I'm just wondering if this situation sounds normal having never done the job before.

I torqued up to 253lb/ft each time I measured the Endfloat

Cheers
J



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jammac]

I wouldn't say it moves freely when compared to how it was. You need both hands now as the flywheel o ring is taking a grip I did lightly lube it with oil. Before I installed it, it was moving freely by hand.

Just wanted to know if I have correct measurement does the I ring take up this much of the slack to what feels like no movement at all?

Put the same post up in vzi and straight away they are all jumping in saying my engines shagged with the initial end float figure anyway


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Trikky2]

0.2mm doesn't necessarily mean your engine is "shagged".

You don't need to remove the flywheel oil seal or the O ring to take an end float measurement with a dial gauge.

Put the dial gauge back in position and push/pull the flywheel to take readings.

If you get zero readings then try gently levering the assembly back and forth.

If you still get no readings then you have shimmed too tight.

If you get readings but the engine feels too tight then the main bearing may be moving in the case. In that case slacken the flywheel nut to see of the engine now becomes less stiff to turn.

If if it does then remove the flywheel again and use the dial gauge to see if the main bearing is moving in the case.

If it is moving then you will have to split the case and proceed as per the workshop manual to measure.

Ps. The flywheel Oil seal will not grip the flywheel. If it were to then it wouldn't last five minutes.

 

[67panel]

have you fitted the O ring in the flywheel grove correctly .not just slid it over the crank before fitting flywheel.sily to ask Iknow but reading your post it did make me think.

 

[jammac]

The o ring is in the correct place ( groove inside the flywheel where te crank mates)

I thinking more & more about new crank bearings so will need machine work done on the case if the bearing seats are worn. Can anyone recommend somewhere to carry out this work?

Also come to the conclusion Haynes manual is rubbish for this kind of stuff and very out of date. Can anyone reccomend a better manual. Is Bentley the one to get?

 

[ozziedog]

The o ring is in the correct place ( groove inside the flywheel where te crank mates)

I thinking more & more about new crank bearings so will need machine work done on the case if the bearing seats are worn. Can anyone recommend somewhere to carry out this work?

Also come to the conclusion Haynes manual is rubbish for this kind of stuff and very out of date. Can anyone reccomend a better manual. Is Bentley the one to get?

OH YES !!!!!

Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,, It is good :mrgreen:

 

[six]

didnt think you should re shim for end float? is this something that i mis understood?

 

[jammac]

Na it's sonethin I've misunderstood!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigdaz]

The end float you are looking for is not always visible, i would use your gauge again to make sure its not too tight. Then put it back in and give it a go
No point doing a rebuild unless it blows a seal again.

 

[Bay-low71]

Any progress on the issue buddy?? This is the book I followed for my build...

Here what it quotes for case studs...

 

[jammac]

Great thanks for that. Good info about the sealant also. My engine had a clear silicon type absolutely everywhere...didn't have any leaks though apart from the crankshaft seal. Seems a very detailed manual defo on my to buy list. I've spoke to a couple of places on the phone and got some things to try it's not all doom and gloom thankfully!

I've got a DTI coming in the post as I've been doing all of this at work during breaks. Not ideal so I'm Not gonna make any rash decisions until I've checked and rechecked. Hopefully I'll be refitting those studs by the weekend!

 

[Bay-low71]

You're doing the right things though dude!!! gather info, ask questions, don't take everyone's replies as gospel, just take your time. It's a great feeling once it's done!! If you got any queries I got the book in the house could easily take a pic of the relevant page, drop me a PM. Good luck with it. Ben

 

[jammac]

I haven't had much time on this but I've rechecked the end float with the original shims and confirmed 0.24mm. And 1.0mm without any shims fitted.

After a chat with an engine build company they said for me to fit a fourth shim which will lock the flywheel to the bearing, then remeasure for end float. The figure shown here is wear in the case. There was zero zilch nada movement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk