Engine rattle up hill?

[Bay pride]

G'day,

I've recently had a new/reconditioned block fitted after the last one blew up, and it's nearly due it's first service.

All is well except when the engine is labouring on a hill for example, there is a definite rattle from the back end of the bus.

If I take my foot off the power it stops!

Normal cruzing on flat, no rattle!

Something to worry about? Or just something to mention to my guy at the garage? Or neither?


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[lasty]

Sounds like pre-ignition (pinking) ..

Check the timing ASAP ...

(like now !!)

 

[Bay pride]

Ok.. Just did some googling and discovered the points gap directly effects the timing!

Now recently my points close completely and I had to reset them by eye at the side of the rd!

I'd completely forgotten about this because otherwise it's running sweetly!

I think I'd better get a 0.4mm feeler gauge and a timing strobe.

Do you think it's fine to drive to the garage as is? it's going Friday and is about half an hour away.


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[jonboylaw]

I would not, simple to get a feeler gauge and set the points before driving again. Pre-ignition will cause a lot of stress on the rods and bearings, not to mention the heat in the heads.


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[Bay pride]

Thank you


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[Happystamps]

Aye, whenever you hear that noise stop immediately if you can. It can only be seconds before the heads expand enough to pull studs out, crack, you name it. For what it's worth, get the points set up with a dwell meter (lots more accurate than a feeler guage!) and the carb set up with a CO meter. takes all of the stress out of it, if the figures are right it'll run fine forever and a day.

 

[Bay pride]

Er... Points set with 0.4mm feeler gauge, now won't start.

What am I doing wrong?

New points required? They're not old


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[six]

and the carb set up with a CO meter. takes all of the stress out of it, if the figures are right it'll run fine forever and a day.

CO = Carbon monoxide. typo for carbon dioxide or is there a away to tune with that? i use a lambda to tune up my carbs very happy with the result and i tune for my driving style, just find some big hills to test it on

 

[rlepecha]

Co level should be ~2% or 0.2%, its the 2 on a gunson CO gauge anyway, for most efficient burning in the cylinder.

2% is 15:1 ish air to fuel ratio. 14.7:1 is most efficient.

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[Happystamps]

Co level should be ~2% or 0.2%, its the 2 on a gunson CO gauge anyway, for most efficient burning in the cylinder.

2% is 15:1 ish air to fuel ratio. 14.7:1 is most efficient.

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VW have always stated that it should be at around 3.5%- These engines can't adjust for conditions so they HAVE to be run rich. I use a gunson on CO, set it to 3.5% and it runs perfectly. I think the 2% you're thinking of with that type of guage is the initial calibration setting of 2%.

 

[rlepecha]

Co level should be ~2% or 0.2%, its the 2 on a gunson CO gauge anyway, for most efficient burning in the cylinder.

2% is 15:1 ish air to fuel ratio. 14.7:1 is most efficient.

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VW have always stated that it should be at around 3.5%- These engines can't adjust for conditions so they HAVE to be run rich. I use a gunson on CO, set it to 3.5% and it runs perfectly. I think the 2% you're thinking of with that type of guage is the initial calibration setting of 2%.

Could you please point me to where VW said this? The Type2.com website states anything above 3-4% is excessive for any engine. Ratwell states it can be tuned from 2-4% at idle.(for a 1970 bus) Obviously 2-3% is more efficient running.

The FI type 4 engines were running much less like 1-2% in the states. The FI auto adjust obviously but its clear these engines can run at that level of CO.

2-3% at idle would be fine, when the throttle is opened you want 3%-3.5% ish.

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