First Timer Adjusting Valve Clearance.......Is This Right?

[TakeLifeEasy]

OK, complete newbie when it comes to engines but I know I need to get my hands dirty and am attempting to give our van's engine a going over/service myself! I am going through the 3000 miles maintenance section of the "How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" book (told you I was a complete newbie!) and am setting the valve clearences (page 102). I have followed the instructions on adjusting No.1 cylinder exhaust and intake valves and thought all was going OK. The book then mentioned turning the engine backwards to do No.2 cylinder which I did. It mentioned that I should not be able to now check the No. 1 valves however, I still have movement in exhast No.1 valve which I can rock back and forth. The No.1 intake cannot be rocked though.

Before I progress and get myself into a complete mess, have I done something wrong like not properly aligned the engine with No.1 cylinder at the start?

Apologies for what may be a dumb question but I really want to get my hands dirty and start to service the van myself and do it properly so any help to a newbie would be very much appreciated.

Somehow, I think this will be one of many questions I have

 

[ZedBed]

No, that's all as it should be. Here's my top tip for a 1st time gap setter - If you find a tight one and have to make adjustment more than say 1/4 turn - you've got mixed up, so go through it again to ensure you're doing the right cylinder. Easy to check where the rotor is pointing, then follow the HT lead to the one you should be setting. The order you set them makes no difference.

 

[TakeLifeEasy]

Hi and many thanks for the quick response So it is OK for No.1 exhaust rocker to rock after doing a 180 degree counter clockwise turn on the engine? I would assume both No.1 valves would now be tight and the No.2 being able to rock back and forth? You mention the rotor arm, (here we go with a really dumb question), should that point to the cylinder number I am meant to be adjusting as it is now pointing to No.3 yet I am adjusting No.2?

Again thanks for the help......just wish I had spent more time learning about engines when I was younger.....still never too late to learn!

 

[Trikky2]

Hi and many thanks for the quick response So it is OK for No.1 exhaust rocker to rock after doing a 180 degree counter clockwise turn on the engine? I would assume both No.1 valves would now be tight and the No.2 being able to rock back and forth? You mention the rotor arm, (here we go with a really dumb question), should that point to the cylinder number I am meant to be adjusting as it is now pointing to No.3 yet I am adjusting No.2?

Again thanks for the help......just wish I had spent more time learning about engines when I was younger.....still never too late to learn!

The rotor arm should be pointing at the dissy cap lead of the cylinder your adjusting.

 

[TakeLifeEasy]

You are a superstar SIR.....I have just checked and the rotor arm is point to the lead on the cap which is No.2 Cylinder........Thank you so much, I will now carry on adjusting the others

 

[TakeLifeEasy]

Just to say a big thank you to ZedBed and Trikky2 for helping in what to them must be real dumb questions Still, we all have to start somewhere and with their help, I have now reset all the valve clearances on our bus successfully for the first time :shock:
I have also learnt how to tighten my fan belt as well today and then was about to move onto replacing the spark plugs but found my twin carbs are in the way and can't get them out so I am off to search how the hell you get them out :roll:

Again, many thanks to you guys and for earlybay as it really is a huge help for dummies like me.

 

[ZedBed]

Great stuff. 8)
The more you do, the more you learn - it's a 45 year old vehicle so there's always going to be something that needs repairing or improving.

 

[Trikky2]

Just to say a big thank you to ZedBed and Trikky2 for helping in what to them must be real dumb questions Still, we all have to start somewhere and with their help, I have now reset all the valve clearances on our bus successfully for the first time :shock:
I have also learnt how to tighten my fan belt as well today and then was about to move onto replacing the spark plugs but found my twin carbs are in the way and can't get them out so I am off to search how the hell you get them out :roll:

Again, many thanks to you guys and for earlybay as it really is a huge help for dummies like me.

Glad to hear it went well. Everybody has to start somewhere - nobody is born with the knowledge :lol:

To get at your spark plugs you need a spark plug socket, a ratchet drive and a short extension bar. Depending on which type of inlet manifolds are fitted you may also need a flexy/bendy joint thingy btween the bar and the socket. All these items will be in a reasonable quality socket set.

 

[ZedBed]

If the inlet manifold studs have been left a bit long it can get tricky. I can barely get the HT leads on and off 1 & 3 with ICT's in the way so I feel your pain. Then again I'm not a plug changer by nature - why do peeps keep replacing a part that's sill going fine? I've done 30,000 on the same plugs in the past without any problems. Mainly because one wouldn't come out and I didn't fancy repairing the head afterwards just to find the plug was fine anyway. If you have running problems fair enough, if not leave them?

 

[TakeLifeEasy]

" I've done 30,000 on the same plugs"

That is interesting.....I was going to take the plugs out to see how they are doing but now I have read that, I may leave them alone as the van is running lovely at the moment. I guess the next job I could move onto is the points as I have to learn how they all go together!

Again, many thanks.