flywheel oil seal replacement
- Thread starter AxlFoley
- Start date
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Yes it is a flywheel-off job, so you'll need a 3/4" drive socket set with a 36mm socket.
Also a clutch aligning tool (or something else to centre the clutch plate) and a flywheel locking tool (or something else to hold it still).
The best seals can be bought from your local VW dealer. Afraid I've not got a pic, but they are about £4 each IIRC.
Also a clutch aligning tool (or something else to centre the clutch plate) and a flywheel locking tool (or something else to hold it still).
The best seals can be bought from your local VW dealer. Afraid I've not got a pic, but they are about £4 each IIRC.
Araon
Well-known member
Thats the right part number fella though get him to scrub the J suffix as that is purely a generation indicator which may well be by the way side...
the councillor
Well-known member
get some plasters ? savlon ? :wink:AxlFoley said:
seriously; it's a piece of cake to do, but remember no matter how heavy the damn thing is the crankcase is made out of plasticene and can be damaged / buggered up REALLY easily so go easy getting that old seal out... AND, make sure you have an adequate method for re-torquing the flywheel gland nut because although it needs to be tight, there is nothing worse that that just a bit tighter, just a bit tighter, just a SNAP oooooooooooooooof feeling when the nut lets go and the thing you're putting 300ftlbs of torque into isn't there any more.
:x
:roll:
Fortunate Son
Well-known member
I have been advised to change the flywheel o-ring as well whilst doing this job. Think they're only a couple of quid.
Part No 311-105-283/A/GEN (from VW Heritage Website)
Keep us posted how you get on
Part No 311-105-283/A/GEN (from VW Heritage Website)
Keep us posted how you get on
uber cool
Well-known member
I'd never done this before and me plus 1 person did the whole job in 4 hours before going to Le mans about 4 years ago. I'd put the job off for 12 months, turned out quite easy
noddy
Well-known member
Have you got a fly wheel lock tool?
Another thing that help get the new seal in is to cut a small chamfer on the edge of the seal bore, also make sure you dont score the seal bore when getting the old seal out. The first one I fitted I cocked up, seal skewed as it went in and knacker the seal, just make sure you keep the seal square as you tap it home.
And as has been said earlier make sure you have some way of getting the gland nut torqued out to I think its 250 Newton meters but might be more, or your fly wheel can come loose and cause big problems. I found leaving the engine mounting bar on help stop the engine trying to turn over when I was doing this on and the wife standing on it.
Just remembered the fly wheel is balanced to the crank, Find TCD on number one and mark the fly wheel and the case so you can get it back on in the right position.
Would also be worth check if you have any end float at the same time as you will be able to shim the crank with the seal out.
have fun
Another thing that help get the new seal in is to cut a small chamfer on the edge of the seal bore, also make sure you dont score the seal bore when getting the old seal out. The first one I fitted I cocked up, seal skewed as it went in and knacker the seal, just make sure you keep the seal square as you tap it home.
And as has been said earlier make sure you have some way of getting the gland nut torqued out to I think its 250 Newton meters but might be more, or your fly wheel can come loose and cause big problems. I found leaving the engine mounting bar on help stop the engine trying to turn over when I was doing this on and the wife standing on it.
Just remembered the fly wheel is balanced to the crank, Find TCD on number one and mark the fly wheel and the case so you can get it back on in the right position.
Would also be worth check if you have any end float at the same time as you will be able to shim the crank with the seal out.
have fun
the councillor
Well-known member
254 ft-lbs :wink:
VWAIRCOOLED
Well-known member
You may as well change your fuel lines whilst you're there and fit a new fuel filter between tank and engine tin,will be easy with the engine out.And wire brush any crap off the chassis and re-seal it.
Also worth checking your endfloat before you take the flywheel off like noddy said,so you can then reshim it if it needs.But usually if there is play reshimming won't help though,but worth checking so that you get an idea of future work that needs doing.Loads of endfloat can make the seal wear out quicker.General servicing is easier with the engine out like spark plugs,re torque cylinder head bolts,set valve clearances etc.
Also worth checking your endfloat before you take the flywheel off like noddy said,so you can then reshim it if it needs.But usually if there is play reshimming won't help though,but worth checking so that you get an idea of future work that needs doing.Loads of endfloat can make the seal wear out quicker.General servicing is easier with the engine out like spark plugs,re torque cylinder head bolts,set valve clearances etc.
VWAIRCOOLED
Well-known member
You can get an idea on endfloat before you even remove the engine,you use a prybar or large screwdriver and gently try and pull the crankshaft pulley away from the engine as far as it will go.Then just using the palms of your hands thump it back in to the engine.You can sort of get a feel of a wrongun and a goodun by pushing and pulling it :? .Anyway for a bit more accuracy you can put feeler gauges inbetween the crank pulley and the crankcase in the fully in and fully out position to get your endfloat measurement (the difference between the two readings),(dial gauge is better if you have one) The gap between the crank pulley and case is quite big for the average set of feeler gauges,so I put an appropriate bit of metal in the gap with the feeler gauges to pack it out.
I can't remember exactly what the clearance is supposed to be,I think it's around .15 to .25 mm.If you're getting that or a little bit over it will be ok for now,if you're getting over a millimeter it's time to start thinking about an engine rebuild unless someones put the wrong shims in,always worth checking.But it usually means the main bearing is moving/sliding in the case which will need recutting and oversize bearings fitted.Then you're stuck with a choice, engine rebuild or not? A new seal will last a little while changed in itself but will leak again who knows when? Might and could go on for ages.
Make sure if you do fit bigger shims in that you can still turn the engine over fully two turns,you might think that you've got rid of the endfloat but all you've done is lock the crank against the main bearings.You'll need a micrometer to check the thickness of the shims and always fit three shims together don't fit the new rear main oil seal until you're happy with the shims you're using and the engine turns without locking.
I can't remember exactly what the clearance is supposed to be,I think it's around .15 to .25 mm.If you're getting that or a little bit over it will be ok for now,if you're getting over a millimeter it's time to start thinking about an engine rebuild unless someones put the wrong shims in,always worth checking.But it usually means the main bearing is moving/sliding in the case which will need recutting and oversize bearings fitted.Then you're stuck with a choice, engine rebuild or not? A new seal will last a little while changed in itself but will leak again who knows when? Might and could go on for ages.
Make sure if you do fit bigger shims in that you can still turn the engine over fully two turns,you might think that you've got rid of the endfloat but all you've done is lock the crank against the main bearings.You'll need a micrometer to check the thickness of the shims and always fit three shims together don't fit the new rear main oil seal until you're happy with the shims you're using and the engine turns without locking.
MarkC68
Well-known member
VWAIRCOOLED said:
Guys, I've been checking or trying to check the crank endfloat (1600TP) and have found that, with the flywheel off we are getting 1.30mm of travel (measured with a dial gauge). But behind the oil seal and shims, we have found there is a bearing which is sliding as we pull/push the crank. Is this normal?
We have got two 0.3mm shims and a 0.24mm shim so am I right in saying its the wrong bearing? We do have oil passing through and past the seal - already wrecked what looks like a new clutch.
VWAIRCOOLED
Well-known member
Ok,put the shims which where originally fitted,leave the oil seal off and put the flywheel back on.You have to measure the endfloat with the flywheel fitted.
The bearing at the flywheel end should not move as it has a lip on either side of the bearing which holds it tightly in the case.It shows that the thrust at least will need recutting for that bearing and probably an align bore too.
But first check the endfloat with the flywheel on,you could get a few more miles out of it yet,then start saving up for a rebuild whilst you're using it.
The bearing at the flywheel end should not move as it has a lip on either side of the bearing which holds it tightly in the case.It shows that the thrust at least will need recutting for that bearing and probably an align bore too.
But first check the endfloat with the flywheel on,you could get a few more miles out of it yet,then start saving up for a rebuild whilst you're using it.
