idle not sweet

[oneday!]

Hi to all

engine runs sweet when reved but at idle keeps jumping around
i have just noticed that the rubber seal on the intake has perished
and can pull it back and here air will this be the problem
should this be a sealed connection

 

[noddy]

Are you talking about the manifold boot?

If its split you gota replace it, it will cause the van to run lean on that bank of pistons, and running lean = running hot.

 

[oneday!]

so whats the best way to replace these seals as the carb end runs all the way into the inlet manifold?
do i release the the other side and slide it back to gain enough le way to get it out of one end? :x

 

[noddy]

I would think the easiest way is to unbolt the center manifold from the heat risers slide the old boots towards the center, and lift off the engine take old boots off manifold fit new boots, and bolt back in with new heat riser gaskets. Then slide boots into place and tighten.

 

[oneday!]

Cheers noddy
thanks for the advice dude

just have few more

carb----i noticed that the idle screw is turned all the way in is this correct or down to ware and tare ?

engine----when starting from cold she sounds like a sowing machine but when she warms up starts to tap is this the norm?

shes idling good[ for now ] :lol:

front beam----the turning circle seems to be a lot shorter on this van compared to my old one
she has got a cut and turned beam is this why ?

front lights--- the high beam wont stay on it will click and flash but wont click on is this relay or leaver

 

[noddy]

Depends on the condition of the idle screw and the seat in the main body. If its been rammed home at some point the seat and the end of the screw could be shagged. A base setting for the screw is 2.5 to 2.75 turns out from fully home, the use the air screw to bring tick over back up to around 850 rpm.

As for the tapping sound when running could be several thing but to start with checking your valve clearances on a cold engine (cold as in left overnight) should be gaped at 0.15mm for intake and exhaust.

If you reset the valves (should check them every 3000K) you will also need to check/reset the timing.

 

[oneday!]

Nice one fella

 

[Loxy]

I would think the easiest way is to unbolt the center manifold from the heat risers slide the old boots towards the center, and lift off the engine take old boots off manifold fit new boots, and bolt back in with new heat riser gaskets. Then slide boots into place and tighten.

The boots can be replaced in situ - but as I recall it isnt as easy as whipping the centre manifold part out due to the interference of the generator/alternator/stand.
I think you have to loosen the nuts that hold the manifold ends to the head as well so that they move outwards slightly - you can then get the old boots off with the gap created then wiggle it around & eventually do the same to the other side. I seem to remember having a significant amount of skin removed from my knuckles when did this back in the 90s

 

[oneday!]

cheers loxy
all done